After dyno questions.

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mtang98 gt

mtang98 gt

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so i just found out some more awesome news. I may be leaking coolant at the parts where i put the RTV for the PI intake andd my transmission is now over revving when at WOT because it bounces off the revs then shifts.... AWESOME!
 
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mtang98 gt

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Did a compression test and here are the results
Passenger side Driver side
1. 160 PSI 5. 150 PSI
2. 160 PSI 6. 150 PSI
3. 150 PSI 7. 150 PSI
4. 155 PSI 8. 150 PSI
Is that good bad okay? I dont know where its supposed to be.
 

MadStang

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There should be no more than 10% difference between each cylinder on one bank. 100psi minimum. You're compression is perfectly fine IMO.
 
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mtang98 gt

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MadStang said:
There should be no more than 10% difference between each cylinder on one bank. 100psi minimum. You're compression is perfectly fine IMO.
well thats good.

anyone know a goo place to get a 2500 stall? imgonna put one in the rebuild if i can find it at the right price
 
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mtang98 gt

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Installed my motorcraft ignition coils cant really tell the difference except that the FRPP wires sit on to the coils very well now. Is there anything else ignition wise i can can look at to see if there is a problem i replaced the spark plugs also.
 

justinschmidt1

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mtang98 gt said:
MadStang said:
There should be no more than 10% difference between each cylinder on one bank. 100psi minimum. You're compression is perfectly fine IMO.
well thats good.

anyone know a goo place to get a 2500 stall? imgonna put one in the rebuild if i can find it at the right price

Just so you know, a stock 4.6 2v stall speed is rated at about 2500....so your gonna want to go with a 3200 atleast if you want to see a differance.
 
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mtang98 gt

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Just so you know, a stock 4.6 2v stall speed is rated at about 2500....so your gonna want to go with a 3200 atleast if you want to see a differance.
[/quote]

Really? The most Ive been able to do is like 1800 unless im not testing it right.
 

justinschmidt1

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mtang98 gt said:
Just so you know, a stock 4.6 2v stall speed is rated at about 2500....so your gonna want to go with a 3200 atleast if you want to see a differance.

Really? The most Ive been able to do is like 1800 unless im not testing it right.
[/quote]


Footbraking is not the same as stall speed.

If you are at a standstill and floor the car and watch the rpms, it should jump up to around 2500, give or take.

For example, I have a 3800 stall and can only footbrake to about 2500.\

Anyways, I would say to go with a 3000-3200 stall.
 
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mtang98 gt

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huh didnt know that thanks for the info i dont have the money to spend on a bigger stall during this rebuild so i will have to settle for replacement stock
 
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mtang98 gt

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well took it out today to see if the over revving issue has stoped witht he new motorcraft coils and as it turns out went away WTF is going on???
 
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mtang98 gt

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well the same issue is back now.. floored it everything was going fine when the rpms went over 5 thousand all power went away the engine got really loud and the rpms still were steadily building until it shifted right at 6 thousand same thing happened in second gear too.
 

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the trans problem where it is over reving is in the tune and how and when it tells the trans when to shift if i were you i would get the car tuned by a reputable tuner or atleast have AM send you a new tune to correct the over rev shifting as for that falling off sound on the dyno thats just the converter locking up my vic did it when i dynod it as you can see here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOwu1lzPdmY
 
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mtang98 gt

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This make sense to anybody?

there is a reason i asked about the shift points in my first post. If you do almost anything to an automatic car, you have to tune for it. there is very few things you can modify in an automatic car without compensating for it in the tune. one way or another the tune controls everything.


This is why you need a correct tune, if you change your stock gears to a 3.73:1, or numerically higher.

First, the EEC knows the stock gear ratio and tire size and assumes they are correct. When you change the gears, you increase the acceleration rate of the engine. Yes that happens.

The stock '94-'97 4.6L Thunderbirds and Cougars (same with mustangs) have a rev limiter set at 5,500 rpm (tach may read 5,250 rpm).

Your engine accelerates approx 800 rpm/sec. The EEC-V commands the WOT 1-2 upshift at 4,250 rpm on your year. The 4R70W in stock form takes 1 second to fill the clutches before the engine speed starts coming down. So with 3.27:1 gears or even 3.08:1 gears, all is fine. The engine is accelerating at 800 rpm/sec. You have a 1 second clutch fill time and the EEC commands the WOT upshift at 4,250 rpm. So the shift happens at 5,000 rpm.

When you start adding power or higher numerical rear gears, the engine starts accelerating faster and faster. The engine is now accelerating at 1,200 rpm/sec. and you still have a 1 second clutch fill time while the EEC-V commands the shift to occur at 4,250 rpm. Guess what? You just hit the 5,500 rpm rev limiter.

How do you fix it? A tune or the J-Mod to the tranny. I don't want to get into extreme detail on how it works, and there is a plethora of good info already out there on it. The tune would move the rev limiter and add line pressure during the shifts. The line pressure will also help reduce the clutch fill time. The shift kit (aka J-Mod) will also reduce the clutch fill time. A tune would also change the shift points and tell the EEC to command the shift at a different rpm.
 

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