alum/flywheel/driveshaft

[jam]

in addition to my addition to the below 'cam' topic
again any 'real world' experience with and alum flywheel/driveshaft
i've bought the above and am dreaming about the outcome
man i'm ready to get this car back on the road :violent1: :violent1:

 

[94kingcbra]

So what's the question? You want to know if anyone else has used an Aluminum Flywheel with a Aluminum Driveshaft?

 

[sbr420a]

i am wondering about a a aluminum D.S. as well

 

[mikey94gt]

I have had both, at the same time in the car. the driveshaft makes quite a difference, but not as much as the flywheel. the car seemed to have trouble idling, and I had to bump my target idle up in the computer to keep it running at stoplights. sometimes it would just randomly die. mind you, this is on a H/C/I car, a stock car may or may not have the same issues. also, make sure your clutch is a nice smooth one if you go with an aluminum flywheel, the reduced mass will amplify any chatter issues.

Acceleration was increased quite a bit, but taking off from a stoplight was kinda iffy, it would buck sometimes. rev matching into the next gear was super easy, and it was easier to get off the line at the strip, less wheel spin, it seemed. I quit breaking transmissions with the aluminum flywheel as well. I really liked it for road racing, which is what I think aluminum flywheels are for, because the car would pull really hard out of corners, and it was super easy to shift and rev match.

 

[Paul]

If your car had trouble idling, it had zero to do with the aluminum flywheel. Similarly, clutch chatter has nothing do with the weight of the flywheel.


I've had aluminum flywheels on stock cars, and HCI cars. No problems. Ever.

 

[jam]

so with my lighten, roush body kitted, new motor/camed car
it'll be a quick reving/F1ish sounding, panty droper, and that i'll have to be carefull driving by highschools because of statutory rape laws?
.
.
.
just what i was shooting for!

I have had both, at the same time in the car. the driveshaft makes quite a difference, but not as much as the flywheel. the car seemed to have trouble idling, and I had to bump my target idle up in the computer to keep it running at stoplights. sometimes it would just randomly die. mind you, this is on a H/C/I car, a stock car may or may not have the same issues. also, make sure your clutch is a nice smooth one if you go with an aluminum flywheel, the reduced mass will amplify any chatter issues.

Acceleration was increased quite a bit, but taking off from a stoplight was kinda iffy, it would buck sometimes. rev matching into the next gear was super easy, and it was easier to get off the line at the strip, less wheel spin, it seemed. I quit breaking transmissions with the aluminum flywheel as well. I really liked it for road racing, which is what I think aluminum flywheels are for, because the car would pull really hard out of corners, and it was super easy to shift and rev match.

 

[mikey94gt]

If your car had trouble idling, it had zero to do with the aluminum flywheel. Similarly, clutch chatter has nothing do with the weight of the flywheel.


I've had aluminum flywheels on stock cars, and HCI cars. No problems. Ever.

Is that why my car had to idle at 1k rpm with the aluminum flywheel, and it idles at 750 or so with the cast iron stocker?

 

[Paul]

Is that why my car had to idle at 1k rpm with the aluminum flywheel, and it idles at 750 or so with the cast iron stocker?

I've had multiple aluminum-flywheeled cars, none of them needed to idle at 1000 rpm. Your tune sucked.

 

[Addermk2]

my car idles ~800rpms and I run an aluminum flywheel AND a light weight balancer. My rotating assembly is one of the lightest available until you get into multi-thousand dollar combo's.

its all in the tune