Amp in the convertible pump enclosure?

[GTamas]

I have a small Class D power amp for the stereo, currently occupying the spare tire well. Since it's a Class D amp it does not produce much heat. I also don't need to play with the setting knobs anymore, so I was thinking maybe I would relocate it to somewhere behind the back seat, where the convertible pump and stuff is.

Do you see any possible problems or risks with that?

 

[ttocs]

are ya jammin on it for hours at a time? I don't see anything wrong with it myself although I would check just to be sure that amp has a thermal shut down in case it get too hot. This is a fairly common feature and if it keeps going into thermal protection then you will need to consider moving it or moving air over it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's where Ford stuck the two Mach 460 amps on the convertible.



The problem that could occur is if the convertible top has a leak. In that case the water drops down right on to the amps and causes problems, mostly a phantom power drain that kills the battery. If you don't have leaks, shouldn't be a problem but you could also fabricate a deflector and mount it off the floor just in case.

 

[TrickVert]

My Soundstream 5-channel amp has been there since 2006.



Custom hoses allowed me to move the pump to the driver's side for more room. It looks like yours will fit beside the pump in its current (standard) location.

 

[GTamas]

Thanks for all the good advice and photos!

 

[PNW Mike]

I'm in the middle of a stereo project where I'm mounting the amp on one side of the convertible top pump and the crossovers on the other. I built custom mounting boards that I can bolt down to the Mach 460 amp mounting bolts using some 1/2" MDO plywood with recessed holes for the nuts. An "in process-pic" is below, I still have more wiring to do and I need to paint the mounting boards to try and seal them against any moisture in the car in case there is a leak - the joys of convertibles in the Pacific NW.

The amp will stick into the trunk an inch or two, so I'll have to trim the divider board (not sure what else to call it) between the trunk and the convertible top well and create a small cover for the part of the amp and wiring that stick into the trunk to protect it from damage if I put anything in the trunk. I may try to 3D print something once I get to that point, we'll see how goes.

I'm trying to do the install with as little drilling and modifying of the car as possible, so far the only thing I've had to do was drill a hole in the firewall for the power cable for the amp, and it's in the driver's side wheel well, so easy to hide later if needed. If I add a sub into the trunk, I'll have to drill to mount that, but someone else already did for another sub, so yeah.

I may have gone a bit nuts with the Dynamat; I plead the fifth. It sure does make a difference, though!

 

[ttocs]

I'm in the middle of a stereo project where I'm mounting the amp on one side of the convertible top pump and the crossovers on the other. I built custom mounting boards that I can bolt down to the Mach 460 amp mounting bolts using some 1/2" MDO plywood with recessed holes for the nuts. An "in process-pic" is below, I still have more wiring to do and I need to paint the mounting boards to try and seal them against any moisture in the car in case there is a leak - the joys of convertibles in the Pacific NW.

The amp will stick into the trunk an inch or two, so I'll have to trim the divider board (not sure what else to call it) between the trunk and the convertible top well and create a small cover for the part of the amp and wiring that stick into the trunk to protect it from damage if I put anything in the trunk. I may try to 3D print something once I get to that point, we'll see how goes.

I'm trying to do the install with as little drilling and modifying of the car as possible, so far the only thing I've had to do was drill a hole in the firewall for the power cable for the amp, and it's in the driver's side wheel well, so easy to hide later if needed. If I add a sub into the trunk, I'll have to drill to mount that, but someone else already did for another sub, so yeah.

I may have gone a bit nuts with the Dynamat; I plead the fifth. It sure does make a difference, though!

View attachment 28573

looks good from the dynamat to the techflex! The only think I might suggest is if you can get any space between what looks to be the crossovers and the amps. The coils in the crossovers will generate heat and I have seen some sets on some fairly abused systems(this kid liked to jam) get hot enough to melt the case that covered them. With the amps on top it would only be made worse.

 

[PNW Mike]

Thanks!

The amp is on the passenger's side (left side of pic), crossovers are on the driver's side (right side of pic) with nothing mounted on top of either of them, so they should be able to dissipate heat. The amp and crossovers are as far apart as possible on either side of the pump; there isn't really a ton of space for anything extra in an SN95 convertible. It's also only a 100W RMS x 4 channel amp, so I'm not pushing crazy power levels, and I rarely run the stereo at higher volume for more than a song or two, and it comes right back down after that. I mainly just want to be able to hear my the stereo with the top down on the freeway without destroying what's left of my hearing after jamming out like a dufus for hours on end back when I was "young and dumb".

My thinking is that with the top up, there is a big air space above the convertible top well liner to help dissipate heat, with the top down, plenty of air gets everywhere back there while you're driving. Judging by the number of pine needles and leaves and random junk I had to clean and vacuum out of that area and below the rear seat - that space isn't exactly "well sealed". The factory Mach 460 amps survived back there for quite a while, so I'm hopeful I won't need to resort to more extreme airflow measures. If I find temps are getting bad back there, I have contemplated adding some air flow holes in the board between the trunk and the convertible top well to help air circulate to the trunk. I could also add some small fans and temp sensor, but that's more complexity and adds some less than ideal white noise.

If I decide to add a sub in the trunk, I've already thought about putting some holes in that divider board so I can hear the sub better; the rear seat passes sound a lot better than the solid trunk diverer board will. The trunk isn't exactly an ideal spot for a sub on a convertible but there isn't really any other place for it unless I set it on a seat or on the rear floor (theft target, so no), or go all the way and remove the back seat (not the direction I want to go with this car). I was trying to fit one under the passenger's seat, but it's just too tight to make it work. I even measured to try and mount one or more subs firing into the back of the rear seat, and I can almost make it fit, but not quite, at least not without more creative fabrication and modification than I'm willing to do for this project.

 

[TrickVert]

I know this is a little off-topic from amp placement, but...

PNW Mike mentioned a sub in the trunk. (No, holes in the divider are not needed.)

I installed a 12" sub using the spare tire well as the enclosure.

Now you see it....


Now you don't.


The entire system is "stealth," because, well.... convertible. Even the head unit is disguised. It's an older Kenwood with a 180° flip face in the cubby/CD space with a factory radio mounted above it.

 

[PNW Mike]

Clever!

I'm keeping the spare; I have horrible luck and have already had to use it once.

 

[GTamas]

I plan to put the amp here. How can I fix it there? Drill holes in the metal sheet and with screws? Is there an emoty space behind the sheetmetal, ir is the kther side th bottom of the car, above the rear axle?

 

[ttocs]

the fuel filter should be right under there around that area IIRC. Mount it to the back of the seat. You will need to put it on the bottom portion to clear the top when it is shut and leave enough wire for if/when it is flipped down.