Just one more thing to take into account on these modular motors. As is the case with most things modular, even SIMPLE maintenance done wrong could cause big problems. Since this is a much more common failure on a 4V, I posted it here. It does however pertain to 2Vs as well and is a known problem. I was surprised I never knew about the filters. When I changed the oil in the cobra this week, sure enough the one I pulled off compared to the motorcraft was much lighter and the anti-drain back valve was very flimsy and weak. Link http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115
makes me glad that the recent oil change i did was 5w20 synthetic blend and a motorcraft filter hahah
The synthetic "blend" oils are pretty much your conventional oil. I'm not 100% on it but I think they started the blends in recent years. They work just fine but a full synthetic has the cleaning additives and better durability as mentioned in the article. Ive never used a full synthetic in any car I've owned until I dumped about $6k in my first fully forged Teksid 4V build, and did every bit of labor myself. LOL Now it's Royal Purple 5/20 every time... And ater that article I stocked up on ford filters too. Hah.
I've owned (9) Supercharged Fords with Mod Motors and I found out @ 14 years ago how important a GOOD oil filter is. When I bought a Brand New Lightning back in 2002 I noticed after it's first oil change the motor tapped on initial start up, (I used a Fram Filter). I talked about it on line and everyone asked if I used a Fram Filter. It was then I found out how chitty Fram is because after swapping the filter it never tapped on initial start up again and from that point on I always buy a high end filter with a good drain back valve, (usually Mobil 1 Extended Performance). The POS Fram PH2 is suppose to have a Drain Back Valve in it but it's useless and doesn't work and I've heard many complain about their poor quality. Then I did some research and found so many who had problems with Fram and vids showing how crappy and poor their quality is so I never use Fram on anything now..... A quality Oil Filter is VERY IMPORTANT :headbang:
SAME EXACT THING HERE... However it was after I did the first break in oil change in my 01 cobra after the forged rebuild (roughly 500 happy miles on the motor w/5/20 conventional and a ford filter). Used the FRAM filter with R-Purp... Then I started hearing the tapping on cold starts and I was freaking out. Lmao. I searched the internets high and low till I found that article and fixed her up and chilled my ass out. Haha
I always run motorcraft filters, there was a big thing with the 5.4 on F150s when running aftermarket filters causing issues.
I learned about oil filters long ago with a 2.9l BroncoII. These things inherently had valve clatter especially when rpm's got high. Like oil starvation to the heads. I dont know what it was caused from, but I do know using a fram oil filter or equally as junk caused the clatter. Using a wix or motorcraft stopped the clatter and oil pressure by the factory gauge would be higher. Since wix isnt locally sold, I stay motorcraft!
Ive never used fram. Growing up in a mopar family and eventually being a dodge tech i learned on the magnum motors, a fram filter would actually blow off, strip the threads right out of the filter
I know this is an old thread but I just saw your Mach on the link you posted. I'm setting up a vortech on my cobra now and would love to run a blow through setup like your car. How does the boost act with that big pipe leading to the throttle body. I was thinking of using my JLT next gen, throwing my sct ba3000 in the provision it has for it and running an intercooler with BOV. Been told the JLT is way too big but I see yours is just about the same size. also heard I'd loose some low end range with that SCT MAF. Idk. Blow thrus blow my mind.
