any thing els i should change?

[mdsn95]

hey im about to do some suspension work to my 94 mustang, im doing springs, shocks, and struts other then new bushings is there anything els i should do whyle i have it all apart? :dontknow:

 

[mustang1]

Im a fan of while your down there and it all apart. So I would replace your front and rear swaybars go with a kit like eibach offers if you like to have a tighter feel to the car on your turns. Check on your ball joints while your down there, our cars are 16 years old and if balljoints havent been replaced before they might need to be soon. As well as your tie rod ends, mine are actually in really good shape for being 16 y.o. If your doing a big drop in springs, go with some CC plates from a good company like maximum motorsports, sry but im going to trash on upr...dont get upr. I have a friend here that has had one of his upr plates break and then they sent him a clearly used or severly mishandled pair. On the rear You could go with rear lower control arms, again from a comapny like...MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS. I went with their adjustable control arms and I love the raised rear end look they give you. But those are just a few things ive learned here and from experience. Im sure if you use the search button you will find your answer to alot of your "why" questions. Good Luck.

 

[MuscleInc1320]

get Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arm. noticeable difference in traction in back. leave upper ones stock or if you want to replace them go with the Ford Racing ones. Really stiff ones will only cause binding issues.

 

[Javi]

What springs are you installing?
you might need Caster camber plates.

 

[mdsn95]

i got eibac springs, and caster camber plates are on my list of to-do's, maximum motorsports is probly what im going to go with to, thanks for all the help!

 

[Win]

If it were me i would sell the Eibach's and go with a H&R race Springs with Bilstein HD's all the way around. Then get yourself some rear LCA's, CC plates and so on. If you wanted to do Coilovers go with Bilstein Hd's up front with H&R super race in the rear with Tokico Yellows with rear LCA's. There are a lot of options out there for you.

 

[marq.fcb]

welcome!
post some pics, I wanna see that white pony

 

[RockstarMentality]

subscribed

 

[Dalamar]

if your budget permits i'd also suggest LCA's

 

[MustangChris]

if your lowering it more than 1.5":

replace your swaybar endlinks with shorter ones (maximum motorsports sells them)

i also suggest replacing yourpinion snubber above your rear differencial (maximum motorsports sells a very nice one. more budget friendly ones consist of BBK)

and finally your caster camber plates. you need plates that offer more adjustment than OEM. Maximum Motorsports is the only kit i suggest for CC Plates.

Finally, while everything is open and apart, i'd look at your ball joints. replace them as needed, or replace the entire A-Arm....

Prothyne offers an entire suspension bushing kit, it even comes with extra bushings! LOL. thats what i purchased when i did my suspension work.



finally, completely *optional* equipment would be:
beefier sway bars (maximum motorsports sell eibach kits)
lower control arms (maximum motorsports sells all sorts of car-specific options for rear control arms)
rear quad shocks (if they compress/decompress really easily, they are blown. they should show resistance in and out.)
steeda rear shock-tower brace.
sub frame connectors (only buy full length, weld in units. maximum motorsports offers powder coated and bare units.)
strut tower brace (OEM unit is fine, maximum motorsports offers a nice selection of differet styles.)

 

[Dalamar]

show off!

 

[Steven]

I find it funny that a majority of the people on here are suggesting beefier sway bars. When building my last SN I was told to stay away from aftermarket sway bars, let alone anything but stock/cobra. The stock sway bars off cobras are sufficient when using stiffer bushings. When jumping to the larger sway bars, in extreme corning conditions, it will begin to pick up the inside wheel. Which is obviously not a good idea. I've also seen the aftermarket sway bars be so stiff that they like to break sway bar links.