Anyone have any coilover pics?

[97aztecgt]

Hey everyone, I was seeing if anyone had any coilover pictures of how the coilover is supposed to be assembled. I've got mine assembled, but it just doesn't seem right for some reason. I've got the kit from UPR.

My problem is...

I've got the body over the strut where the adjuster nut is, then the coil, then the top 'plate', then the washer, bearing, washer, & then the other top plate, and then the spacer. All of which is under the caster/camber plate. When I adjust the the adjuster to lower the car, the coil slides up and down the coil and comes seperated from the top plate stuff. It just seems that if I hit a bump of any sort, that everything will not stay lined up?

Brenton

 

[97aztecgt]

This is what I have. Everything in the picture is under the CC plate. The big blue circular piece sits in the top of the coil, then the washer, bearing, washer sits in the bigger blue piece. Then the smaller blue piece sits on top of the bigger blue piece, thus covering the washer, bearing, washer. Then on top of the smaller blue piece a spacer sits on it, and then it slides up into the CC plate. And then the strut nut is on top of the CC plate. If that explains what I said above better with the picture below.

Brenton

 

[cntchds]

So if I'm allowed to ask a stupid question here, am I right in assuming that when you corner weight the car you are preloading/ compressing the spring, or does the spring perch move so the spring is always under the same load?

 

[ReplicaR]

Actually corner weighting the car means that you transfer weight diagonally. There are two wedges when you setup suspension, and they are the pairs of the opposite sides of the wheels. Left front and right rear is one wedge, and right front and left rear is the other side. At any given point one of those two pairs has more weight sitting on it, even if the car is leveled. What you do to corner weight a car is you take away some of the load from one wedge and put it on the other one, until you get an almost identical cross-weight, meaning the sum of left front and right rear and the sum of right front and left rear should read the same, or at least very close. When you have accomplished this, you will have almost identical grip either direction.

 

[Venom351R]

I have a coil over set up but its all in pieces at the moment, plus I need half of my caster Camber kit to assemble all of it.

 

[ReplicaR]

To the OP: The UPR kit is a cheaper MM knock off. If it works anything like MM stuff, then the upper perch should be sitting on top of the strut still completely sealed, despite the springs dropping down or not. Springs dropping down is just what happens when shock droop exceeds the spring length. Don't worry about running over bumps and losing stuff. Believe me, if your springs become fully unseated on the street, you will have bigger problems, such as landing from that 50 foot jump you just did.

 

[330CubeGt]

Only this one...

 

[ZillaRacing989]

i used to have the UR kit. i think i had the same problem. you're saying that when you jack up the car the top plate that sits against the CC plate slides down and is no longer touching right? so then everything is lose? thats the problem i had. and i would have to put the big blue ring back inside the top of the spring before i lowered my car down. thats a pain in the a$$.. i wasnt happy with that kit and it made alot of cracking type noises when i would hit bumps and turn. its a cheap coilover setup but not something that i would ever buy again.

 

[duff daddy]

 

[Rice_slayer]

Aren't the sleeve types noisy though? I was going to get the sleeve ones(like the MM kit) but I hear that they rattle sometimes vs. the QA1 type. We need our road coarse expert replica for this lol.

 

[97aztecgt]

Yea, for $700 I'm pretty upset with my k member kit. I though UPR made a half decent product, but I honestly probably won't buy anything major like this from them again. I will say that their customer service is top notch, they answered all of my problems with lots of knowledge of their products.

I'd like to try to get 'true' coilover, with the threaded part made as part of the shaft, instead of the slip over. The car does feel lighter though, but I haven't really cornered with it yet, so we'll see how that goes!

Brenton

 

[Rice_slayer]

UPR makes "OK" products. I love my gauge overlay and it works great and they helped me a lot when the switch for the lights on it died, but their products are just something I would buy for "visual" use, like billet pieces. When buying suspension or engine parts, ALWAYS go with good name companies. But I yes, the guys at UPR are really nice, too bad the products aren't that good lol.

 

[McCloud]

Not fully assembled but they've yet to be installed.

 

[cntchds]

So that didn't really answer my question ReplicaR.

Are you preloading the spring when moving the perch up and down, or is the spring (since it will surely never be over extended) just allowed to be "loose" when the suspension is at full droop, allowing the ride height to change? It seems like preloading the spring would be a bad idea, but who am I to second guess?