Anything for the rear that is equivalent to drop spindles in the front?

rz5.0 · Dec 18, 2014

ReplicaR said:
Well, not to be pedantic, but technically SLA refers to short long arm configuration, otherwise known as double wishbone suspension. That could be both front or rear, like the case of very many sports cars, ie: Porsche 911, Corvette and many others.

True

B.mad · Dec 19, 2014

mcglsr2 said:
That I don't know. Have you asked MM? It's possible they could re-valve their MM series shocks to potentially handle the shorter travel. Not sure though. We're probably also talking about high spring rates here too...

they would of mentioned it when i emailed them. But the email wasnt much help anyway. person who emailed me (not jack) basically said "if you are that low it doesnt matter what spring rates and shocks youhave since its going to be on the bumpstops anyway" and i told him that when i race, itll be at a higher height than my stanced height. and he just gave me a generic email that was absolutely no help.

my spring rates are going to be normal for aggressive driving. 375-400 in the front and 225-250 in the rears

Wichers123 · Dec 19, 2014

You can run fox struts they are shorter and will correct the low travel. That's what I was using when I was low. I'll tell yah though you better have your exhaust in check and the driveshaft is gonna eat into the ebrake cable stays and the rear end is gonna hit the bump stop so remove it.

Wichers123 · Dec 19, 2014

95opal · Dec 19, 2014

the problem is your thinking conventional coilover conversion when you should actually be thinking about a true coilover set up or bags.
Youll want to start with something like a teamz coilover mounting bar. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/product_p/tzm-c-fslash-o-mount.htm
Couple that with a true coilover from strange http://www.strangeengineering.net/h...t/shocks-struts-springs/coil-over-shocks.html
or ridetech

Handling Quality ("HQ") Coil-Over Series

The HQ coil-over allows the driver to tune and adjust the shock performance and/or ride quality at the turn of a knob located on the shock body. The HQ series is a rebound single adjustable shock.

Stroke	Compressed	Extended	Suggested Spring Length	Price
2.9"	8.725"	11.625"	8"	$250	[Purchase]
3.6	9.425	13.025	8	$250	[Purchase]
4.1	10.125	14.225	10	$250	[Purchase]
5.2	11.225	16.425	12	$250	[Purchase]
6.3	12.325	18.625	14	$250	[Purchase]
6.9	13.125	20.025	14	$250	[Purchas

the only thing stopping from laying it on the ground at this point would be notching the frame rail. So yes you can go as low as you want just have to get away from the stock set up

RichV · Dec 19, 2014

I'll just put this in here since track driving was mentioned.

Lowering the car to the bumpstops and track driving is like mixing oil and water. Completely different purpose. What do you think is going to happen when you raise the car for track driving? Your alignment will be screwed up, and all those parts designed to lower the car to the max will be doing something they are not designed to do, so depending on what you have suspension angles will not be optimal anyways.

I'm sure you can find a happy medium for dual purpose. Why not go CO in the front, but stay coils in the back, get some weight jacker LCAs? I would not do the drop spindle, probably a X2 ball-joint.

B.mad · Dec 19, 2014

Wichers123 said:
You can run fox struts they are shorter and will correct the low travel. That's what I was using when I was low. I'll tell yah though you better have your exhaust in check and the driveshaft is gonna eat into the ebrake cable stays and the rear end is gonna hit the bump stop so remove it.

the exhaust is pretty much new, when i get the headers itll all be new. How did you modify the e brake cable? and do you mean remove the bump stop? or the rear end?

im pretty sure you mean bump stop lol. how do you remove the bumpstops?

B.mad · Dec 19, 2014

95opal said:
the problem is your thinking conventional coilover conversion when you should actually be thinking about a true coilover set up or bags.
Youll want to start with something like a teamz coilover mounting bar. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/product_p/tzm-c-fslash-o-mount.htm
Couple that with a true coilover from strange http://www.strangeengineering.net/h...t/shocks-struts-springs/coil-over-shocks.html
or ridetech

Handling Quality ("HQ") Coil-Over Series

The HQ coil-over allows the driver to tune and adjust the shock performance and/or ride quality at the turn of a knob located on the shock body. The HQ series is a rebound single adjustable shock.

Stroke Compressed Extended Suggested Spring Length Price
2.9" 8.725" 11.625" 8" $250 [Purchase]
3.6 9.425 13.025 8 $250 [Purchase]
4.1 10.125 14.225 10 $250 [Purchase]
5.2 11.225 16.425 12 $250 [Purchase]
6.3 12.325 18.625 14 $250 [Purchase]
6.9 13.125 20.025 14 $250 [Purchas

the only thing stopping from laying it on the ground at this point would be notching the frame rail. So yes you can go as low as you want just have to get away from the stock set up

what is the difference between a true CO and conventional???

I was looking into the MM kits for coilovers, not to sure what type they are.

B.mad · Dec 19, 2014

RichV said:
I'll just put this in here since track driving was mentioned.

Lowering the car to the bumpstops and track driving is like mixing oil and water. Completely different purpose. What do you think is going to happen when you raise the car for track driving? Your alignment will be screwed up, and all those parts designed to lower the car to the max will be doing something they are not designed to do, so depending on what you have suspension angles will not be optimal anyways.

I'm sure you can find a happy medium for dual purpose. Why not go CO in the front, but stay coils in the back, get some weight jacker LCAs? I would not do the drop spindle, probably a X2 ball-joint.

well only the front will be messed up, the rear wont. But why not on the drop spindles? i wont go x2 because the mm k-member pretty much does the same thing. I already have the x2 ball joints, but depending when i get the k-member i might not even install them

Wichers123 · Dec 20, 2014

Kmembers don't lower the car. Nothing wrong with drop spindles they are the proper way to drop a car. The rear bumpstop has three 8mm headed bolts remove and throw in the back of the trunk to see if you like. The picture above was cut stock front coils and rear was weight jackers not even all the way down.m

RichV · Dec 20, 2014

Maybe, but can the drop spindles handle the stress of a open track car? I know the stockers can. Companies that make parts for lowering cars probably don't test the parts in that environment. Maybe I'm wrong but I witnessed a Camaro spindle break at speed on track, and it wasn't pretty. For the Camaro, nor the drivers around him.

95opal · Dec 20, 2014

RichV said:
Maybe, but can the drop spindles handle the stress of a open track car? I know the stockers can. Companies that make parts for lowering cars probably don't test the parts in that environment. Maybe I'm wrong but I witnessed a Camaro spindle break at speed on track, and it wasn't pretty. For the Camaro, nor the drivers around him.

Racecraft makes drop spindles and Ill guarantee they have been race tested a million times over. Im very surprised that you think just because parts are made for lowering a car that they haven't been tested. I mean these cars are 20 years old and have been raced on tracks since day one. To think after 20 years of aftermarket parts being produced that they have not been tested is kind of absurd. Im sure some of the crap from the knock off companies and the cheap ebay crap may have not endured the rigors of track but there are so many companies that make there living on producing track proven parts its not even funny. Sometimes you just have to put down the AM catalog and do a little research, the parts are all available to make a stang a full out track car. Parts may not be cheep but then again going fast was never cheep to begin with.

95opal · Dec 20, 2014

B.mad said:
what is the difference between a true CO and conventional???

I was looking into the MM kits for coilovers, not to sure what type they are.

A true coil over isn't a conversion like 90% of the mustangers use because they don't change the mounting configuration to run a true coil over. If you look at the pic of that ridetech coil over youll notice there is no sleeve as you would normally see on a coil over conversion that MM and the likes sell. youll also notice the mounting ends are different from your conventional shock/coil over conversion.

RichV · Dec 20, 2014

95opal said:
Racecraft makes drop spindles and Ill guarantee they have been race tested a million times over. Im very surprised that you think just because parts are made for lowering a car that they haven't been tested. I mean these cars are 20 years old and have been raced on tracks since day one. To think after 20 years of aftermarket parts being produced that they have not been tested is kind of absurd. Im sure some of the crap from the knock off companies and the cheap ebay crap may have not endured the rigors of track but there are so many companies that make there living on producing track proven parts its not even funny. Sometimes you just have to put down the AM catalog and do a little research, the parts are all available to make a stang a full out track car. Parts may not be cheep but then again going fast was never cheep to begin with.

I get what you're saying, but I'm not putting them on my car. So I'm not doing research on them. I didn't say they haven't been tested, just not sure. They are not things I see on race cars at the events I go to. Again, I'm not putting them on my shit, so I don't really care. Just stating a concern because I'm out on track with people and in their cars, safety is #1 concern, even over looks.

Street driving to Dairy Queen and car shows puts zero stress on anything. Catastrophic failures on the race track kills people.

And you did see that the drop spindle states ***NOT INTENDED FOR STREET OR ROAD RACE***

95opal · Dec 20, 2014

RichV said:
I get what you're saying, but I'm not putting them on my car. So I'm not doing research on them. I didn't say they haven't been tested, just not sure. They are not things I see on race cars at the events I go to. Again, I'm not putting them on my shit, so I don't really care. Just stating a concern because I'm out on track with people and in their cars, safety is #1 concern, even over looks.

Street driving to Dairy Queen and car shows puts zero stress on anything. Catastrophic failures on the race track kills people.

And you did see that the drop spindle states ***NOT INTENDED FOR STREET OR ROAD RACE***

Any type of failure either on the street or at the track can kill someone and yes there standard version isn't ment for the street or track basically a drag spindle but they do make a road race drop spindle also. Theres another company, DVM who also make a road race drop spindle. I also believe team z is making some now.

If you have concerns about them heres something for ya that may ease your mind a little.

I ran Racecraft spindles on my AI car

, the roadrace ones. These are well-reinforced. I crashed my car hard at Summit Point, went straight into a cement barrier at ~85mph. Hit with the left front corner, the force was enough to launch the car straight into the air, rotate it 360Ã‚Âº, then drop onto it's left side. The car was destroyed, the force bent the lower MM arm, bent the MM K-member, ripped the engine mounts, tore the floor, put a "wave" down the center of the entire car/trans tunnel, and bent the rear axle. I was not hurt as the cage held the car together. The racecraft spindle on the LF took the brunt of the force, and did not break. It bent, and the welds down the backside partially ripped, but it did not come apart. I was impressed by it's strength, and would not hesitate to run them again. I can't image a more real-world destructive test...

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RichV · Dec 20, 2014

The ones in the pics look bombproof for sure. I actually saw the in car vid on that wreck, it was crazy.

B.mad · Dec 20, 2014

Wichers123 said:
Kmembers don't lower the car. Nothing wrong with drop spindles they are the proper way to drop a car. The rear bumpstop has three 8mm headed bolts remove and throw in the back of the trunk to see if you like. The picture above was cut stock front coils and rear was weight jackers not even all the way down.m

no they dont lower the car, but they change the pivot point and mounting point of the FCA. Which is precisely what the x2 joints do.

what exactly will removing the bumpstops do?

B.mad · Dec 20, 2014

95opal said:
A true coil over isn't a conversion like 90% of the mustangers use because they don't change the mounting configuration to run a true coil over. If you look at the pic of that ridetech coil over youll notice there is no sleeve as you would normally see on a coil over conversion that MM and the likes sell. youll also notice the mounting ends are different from your conventional shock/coil over conversion.

i see. so how exactly do they mount on? and why are they better?