Backfires under acceleration

[94Snake]

For those of you who visit stangnet.com, i posted this same question, but my handle on that site is 94mustangcobra.

Now my car is backfiring even just reving it up, and driving, any load put on the car and it just breaks up, popping, sputtering.

Replaced fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil.

leakdown tests are good on all cylinders. Compression tests are within 5% of eachother. Pulled valve covers and verified no broken valve springs.

Restabbed the distro, verified on #1 TDC...

fixed a couple small vacuum leaks and replaced a line to the charcoal canister that looked suspect.

Fuel pressure looks good under hood, i don't have a gauge in the car. Both of my fuel pumps kick on (255 lph in tank, 50 gph inline). N/A 347 motor.

Shot the headers with a temp gun and all cylinders were even except 1 and 5 (two forward most), i rechecked the plug wires to make sure they weren't backwards. The other cylinders were running about 500 and 1 and 5 was running about 350 to 400. I'm guessing that must be a normal...

Latest codes pulled were 511 (it has a chip), 212 Ignition control module, 311 and 314 (but these are smog codes, i pulled all of that stuff off in 2007).

So i think my culprit is the ICM or the distributor pickup sensor (hall effect sensor)...

Anybody else had a 212 code issue? What was the fix?

 

[CC'S95GT]

My first guess would be a couple of spark plug wires are swapped.
Do you have a MSD box? They're know to be unreliable on mustangs.
The PIP is a possibility but when mine went out the car would eventually quit completely.

 

[94Snake]

i've rechecked the plug wires more times than i'd like hoping i was just stupid or something......i wasn't lol.......acutally i don't have any ignition box on the car, just an MSD pro billet distro, new streetfire coil, and what looks to be an original motorcraft TFI. I'm thinking it is my TFI going bad finally, i'm just tired of throwing money at it to make it run right so i'm trying to be sure i find the problem. Now the distro had some rust/corrosion on the metal plate that passes the hall effect sensor, or stator, or PIP or whatever ppl want to call it.

 

[97FloridaGT]

Ignition module is your TFI. Replace it and you'll probably be golden. If not, I'd say its the PIP as well but start with the TFI first.

 

[CC'S95GT]

did you get it tuned after the 347 was installed?

 

[94Snake]

Ignition module is your TFI. Replace it and you'll probably be golden. If not, I'd say its the PIP as well but start with the TFI first.

Yeah i guess i'm going to just swap the TFI and then send my distro off to get rebuilt. I was just curious if anybody ever dealt with the 212 code before and what their fix was.

 

[94Snake]

did you get it tuned after the 347 was installed?

dude i've been running this exact setup since 2007 with the exception of swapping the stock cobra intake for a Trick Flow Track Heat in 2009. I didn't start having this issue until this year but the car sits mostly and for awhile it was my daily driver but i live on a dirt road so......rain.....mud......plus i live in south GA so the dirt is just sand and it gets everywhere, i'm constantly trying to do corrosion control. i just cleaned the grounding points in the engine bay, battery terminals and my external inline pump had to be cleaned as well.

 

[SL0WNESS]

popping through the intake or out of the exhaust? does it act like its hitting the rev limiter?

If you have a oreilly auto around you, take the ignition control module there and have them test it, and have them do it like 9-10 times if it does not fail the first time (i say oreilly because i took the same bad module to autozone and it tested good 15 times, failed 5 times in a row on oreilly tester).

if you need a module, i have a new one with literally 10-15 minutes of runtime on it (duralast i believe? bought from autozone) you can have for $25. Only took it off because i replaced everything ignition related and went with a dynamod module.

 

[ttocs]

curious how the fuel pressure can look good with no gauge?

 

[chrisv_10]

I think he said he has a gauge under the hood?

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

 

[94Snake]

popping through the intake or out of the exhaust? does it act like its hitting the rev limiter?

If you have a oreilly auto around you, take the ignition control module there and have them test it, and have them do it like 9-10 times if it does not fail the first time (i say oreilly because i took the same bad module to autozone and it tested good 15 times, failed 5 times in a row on oreilly tester).

if you need a module, i have a new one with literally 10-15 minutes of runtime on it (duralast i believe? bought from autozone) you can have for $25. Only took it off because i replaced everything ignition related and went with a dynamod module.

We do have an O'Reily in town, i didn't realize they could test those....anywhere...

Backfires out of the exhaust.......slappin a rev limiter is the perfect example....

If you were close i'd take you up on the TFI offer but i'll just go buy one as opposed to going through the hassel of paypal, shipping, etc.

 

[94Snake]

curious how the fuel pressure can look good with no gauge?

curious as to why you would think i would say fuel pressure looks good under with no gauge......damn...... wouldn't you think even if i didn't have a gauge in the car, i might have one attached to the fuel rail or at least a tester bought from advance that connects to the shrader valve......i can see pressure when the pumps kick on and i can twist the throttle body and watch the pressure but i just can't watch FP while driving.....any other smartass comments you want to try to make or do you think you might have a real solution or maybe suggestion to my problem......

 

[ttocs]

curious as to why you would think i would say fuel pressure looks good under with no gauge......damn...... wouldn't you think even if i didn't have a gauge in the car, i might have one attached to the fuel rail or at least a tester bought from advance that connects to the shrader valve......i can see pressure when the pumps kick on and i can twist the throttle body and watch the pressure but i just can't watch FP while driving.....any other smartass comments you want to try to make or do you think you might have a real solution or maybe suggestion to my problem......

Fuel pressure looks good under hood, i don't have a gauge in the car. Both of my fuel pumps kick on (255 lph in tank, 50 gph inline). N/A 347 motor.

?

Well because you said there was no gauge, made no mention of using a gauge nor even the pressure it was reading if you did hook it up? A smart ass comment would have been "How the fawk do you see the pressure in your fuel lines you stupid jackass?!", if you look up I was simply asking a question and trying to clarify if you have actually put a gauge on it. If you were not so busy trying to act tough or what ever your excuse is, maybe just answer a couple of simple questions you might have a better time finding out what your problem is both with your car and you attitude.... Just sayin....

 

[94Snake]

Well because you said there was no gauge, made no mention of using a gauge nor even the pressure it was reading if you did hook it up? A smart ass comment would have been "How the fawk do you see the pressure in your fuel lines you stupid jackass?!", if you look up I was simply asking a question and trying to clarify if you have actually put a gauge on it. If you were not so busy trying to act tough or what ever your excuse is, maybe just answer a couple of simple questions you might have a better time finding out what your problem is.

Exactly "Fuel pressure looks good under the hood, but i do not have a gauge in the car."

How the hell do you not think that "curious how the fuel pressure can look good with no gauge?" isn't a smartass comment....

Personally i perceived it as an insult.......

If that's not how you meant it, than my bad, yes i have a liquid filled gauge on the fuel rail that i watch.

 

[ttocs]

honestly I was trying to clarify, not poke fun or raise hell. saying there is one under the hood to me is deferent then saying there is not one "in the car" and just wanted to be sure it had been checked.

 

[95opal]

Code 212 is a ground short in the SPOUT circuit, poke around by the spout to see if any wire looks to be frayed. Tipically the TFI will act up when hot and will usually cause the car to stall and not restart till it cools down. The PIP if going bad will cause a backfire. With that said I would first check the spout wiring then move on to the PIP, also pull the TFI to have it tested if the spout wiring isnt the culprit. My guess is you will find faulty wiring at the spout.

 

[SL0WNESS]

my car was opposite to symptoms as far as tfi/pip. When my tfi went bad the car would pop and sputter under any kind of hard load. When the pop went south they car kept dying and not restarting.

 

[cammed sn95]

Did you ever fix this issue?