Battery relocation

ttocs

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that is the spot that my wiring fell down on the exhaust and started my electrical fire so I will probably wince anytime I see someone running wiring there.
 
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J_lope82

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I’m thinking of installing a heat shield where the positive wire could come in contact the exhaust.
This one here. IMG_0578.jpeg
 

ttocs

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YES!!! Good stuff and I have been going through all of my wiring near the exhaust or tranny covering it with that same material. Just be aware some is made with velcro to make it easy and others you need to slide your hose/cable through it.
 

Gautz

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Just keep it away from anything moving and anything hot. General rule of thumb is at least half a foot from anything hot and in that case the wire/hose/etc should be covered in some type of heat resistant sheath like those fiberglass woven spark plug protectors. I might even go father and cover it in that as well as the corrugated seamless aluminized tubing.

More than one way to slice the pie, and there's tons of examples in google images or mustang forums, etc. Did the trunk relo a few years back and while I'll post pics for examples, I honestly threw money at it and it's not for everyone on a budget. I have + running down driver side and - down passenger. All 1/0 AWG or 0 gauge or 50mm squared.

It's a Varley red top 60 with a custom aluminum hold down (pictured), 500A main breaker (pictured), a + distribution point up front (not pictured) with one leg going unfused to the starter and the other leg going to everything else (300A fused toward OEM fuse box and the alternator). Negative trunk goes from the IRS subframe onto a distribution point up front (not pictured) and branches off with one to the passenger motor mount and to the case of the alternator.
Good day, I have an 01 GT stroked, procharged... I ran out of space to install my oil filter relocation/oil cooler thermostat, so I need to put the battery in the trunk. I like your approach. Did you happen to write out a wiring diagram by chance??? :)
 

cobrajeff96

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No diagram for mine, and not really all that necessary either. You only need a fat lead going from back to front of car. You can terminate the front end side of it where the factory originals all connect to, which I believe is on the fuse box (but I could be wrong it's been so long since anything on my car has been OEM). As long as all the positives tie together at some distribution point, it's really all that matters. Even then, you don't need a "star" distribution point (you can have the big (+) lead in series). For instance, a lot of people going direct from battery to starter, then off of that to the alternator, then finally to the OEM fuse box. I went down a much different path due to space contraints and other electrical 'breakout' requirements I inadvertently made for myself along the way.

And if you're not changing the output of the alternator, you don't even need to change gauges of any other wires, just keep them all the same. That's because the big-A 1/0 (or greater) cable you'd be adding is the same thing as the battery being up front where it originally was. But do make sure that the (-) post of the trunk battery anchors to something really meaty, like frame rail or shock tower. Don't go into thin gauge sheet metal. The ground is just as important as the positive cable, both in terms of cable cross section and where it's ultimately chosen to be mounted.
 

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