Building old engine vs. Building new engine?

Rice_slayer

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After reading the Budget build thread, it got me thinking,how many of you guys have gotten rid of your original 5.0L and swapped in something else? I was going to throw an H/C/I on my current block with 214k, but after seeing that shortblock on 50resto for only $700 got me thinking to buy parts over the next year to throw on the block, then drop in a spanking new engine into my car. If anyone has done this, any feedback would be grateful!
 

Paul

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With 214K miles, I think a new motor would be in order. Plus, it is a lot easier to work on a completely seperate motor and just swapping the whole thing at once. It reduces downtime significantly.
 
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Rice_slayer

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it was a highway driven car before we bought it, plus thats 214,000KM, not miles :p. Only burns about 1/2 litre every oil change but still, I see what you mean. How much do you think a building up a new engine would be with AFR 165s, E303 cam, and the cobra upper/lower intakes? Im guessing $5000ish.
 

Paul

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Buy the top end in the classifieds for $1600, and the 5.0resto shortblock and you can get it done for a couple grand less. :)
 
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Rice_slayer

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Crap thats one hell of a deal! Seriously, If I didnt have to pay right now to get my car fixed, I would pick that up in a second! Bad thing is, I want all new if I do a complete rebuild, no used parts :angry7:
 

Paul

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I don't blame you. In that case, the TFS kit is cheap and effective.
 
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Rice_slayer

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350hp? Thats at the flywheel right? Still, Impressive. I price it out for $2500 and the AFR/E303/Cobra combo to $1900 without gaskets, valve covers(Extra $100 so $2000). What is the power difference for the 2 combos? I hear the TF one puts down around 270rwhp...
 

Paul

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The AFR/FTI combo will make more power, and comes with some nice extra parts.

The TFS setup will be complete and ready to rock, and makes about the power you mentioned.
 
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Rice_slayer

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K, 1 last question. Since my hood that Is going to be put on soon(car goes into shop today!) is going to have a 3'' cowl, I can use the fox intakes right? Im looking at the FRPP 93 Cobra R upper and Lower. I will I need to get anything besides the elbow from like eldelbrock to get it to fit properly? Also, since I am starting off with a fresh block, is there any other parts I should look at while I am building up the engine?
 

Win

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Paul said:
With 214K miles, I think a new motor would be in order. Plus, it is a lot easier to work on a completely seperate motor and just swapping the whole thing at once. It reduces downtime significantly.

Agreed thats why i am thinking of doing that so i can take my time and just do it the way i want to so when the time comes i have it ready.
 

Win

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Rice_slayer said:
350hp? Thats at the flywheel right? Still, Impressive. I price it out for $2500 and the AFR/E303/Cobra combo to $1900 without gaskets, valve covers(Extra $100 so $2000). What is the power difference for the 2 combos? I hear the TF one puts down around 270rwhp...


Yeah i would think about 260-280 at the wheels i am sure if you had it tuned you could squeek a little more out of it. Also if you were looking at the Short block from LMR make sure they don't suggest you run forced induction on it. I would think you could as long as you kept the boost low and with a safe tune. I would think you would be fine.
 
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Rice_slayer

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N/A for me, I hate power adders, Im all about displacement. The car went into the shop today, hood is costing more than I was originally told :angry4: Still, going to be sexy when done! Then interior, then suspension THEN the engine... Cars are expensive but sooo worth it :).
 

LAFENATU

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95convgt said:
Rice_slayer said:
350hp? Thats at the flywheel right? Still, Impressive. I price it out for $2500 and the AFR/E303/Cobra combo to $1900 without gaskets, valve covers(Extra $100 so $2000). What is the power difference for the 2 combos? I hear the TF one puts down around 270rwhp...

Yeah i would think about 260-280 at the wheels i am sure if you had it tuned you could squeek a little more out of it. Also if you were looking at the Short block from LMR make sure they don't suggest you run forced induction on it. I would think you could as long as you kept the boost low and with a safe tune. I would think you would be fine.

My car made 285 with the Extrude Honed GT40/AFR 165/Crane 2031 combo. That is through an automatic too..

AFR makes some nasty heads..
 

El_Diablo

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not hard to swap out pistons at that price ;)

oh, and btw, are the afr 1472's good for a blower and would they be a good deal at $850-$900 shipped? i saw the ones here but i also know of others ;)
 

Paul

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J.R. said:
Paul said:
J.R. said:
The 50resto shortblock has cast pistons, uck.

If the motor is naturally aspirated, and a budget build, who cares?

They could at least be hyper. I wonder what an advance or autozone longblock costs.

I think the only difference between normal cast and hypereutectic, hypoeutectic, and eutectic pistons is silicone content - which affect heat "reflectivity" properties. I'm not 100% sure about that though. Also, hypereutectic pistons can typically run tighter piston-to-wall tolerances than a forged piston, for example.

Honestly, I wouldn't personally have any reservations about putting that shortblock in a naturally aspirated daily driver of my own.
 

El_Diablo

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i work at advance and we can get a couple different engines but they're all going to be along the same lines... a cast piston will hold up to a lot of abuse if your tuning is done correctly, ive seen cast pistons in a 2.5 dodge take repeated runs at 30psi....

let me know what EXACTLY you want as far as the engines go and i'll let you know... a termi motor only costs like $5,400, order it through me and i may be able to cut you a nice deal if you're in the area ;)
 

Jrgunn5150

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Paul said:
J.R. said:
Paul said:
J.R. said:
The 50resto shortblock has cast pistons, uck.

If the motor is naturally aspirated, and a budget build, who cares?

They could at least be hyper. I wonder what an advance or autozone longblock costs.

I think the only difference between normal cast and hypereutectic, hypoeutectic, and eutectic pistons is silicone content - which affect heat "reflectivity" properties. I'm not 100% sure about that though. Also, hypereutectic pistons can typically run tighter piston-to-wall tolerances than a forged piston, for example.

Honestly, I wouldn't personally have any reservations about putting that shortblock in a naturally aspirated daily driver of my own.

I wouldn't either, BUT the caveat here is you and I are more likely to decide our goals before hand, and build reasonably, accordingly and to plan.

Most people however decide to change their minds eleventy billion times, an original N/A shortblock thus becomes a supercharged shortblock, because a nitroused shortblock... Etc. So I usually recomend people get the stoutest stuff they can.

The hyper vs cast difference is indeed silicon content, a Hyper pistons are designed for long wear, another thing I like.

A cast piston won't hold up to any abuse, lol. That's why you had to add in "if your tuning is done correctly" cast pistons shatter with the greatest of ease because they are brittle as hell.

An engine with cast pistons is also more likely to detonate because the cast edges are sharp and promote detonation, so it's like a viscous cycle.
 

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