Car can't take the heat. -Questions-

[Twista]

Im having the same problem as last year where my car starts to overheat with the A/C on during this weather.

Now here is where im stuck at. Should i just get a new radiator or will a coolant flush do. (thinking of just doing a flush right now)

Now i usually do all the easy crap to my car but dont feel like messing with the coolant again this year in this hot weather. Was wondering would a place like jiffy lube (shudders.. never been to jiffy lube or a car shop) with the coolant flush and replace service would be good enough to get my coolant system back up and running properly. Im pretty sure my current mix is diluted big time from pouring in distilled water during the winter when i was leaking from the water neck also its probably pretty dirty.

Last question: how much should a coolant flush cost at a car shop?

Thanks.

 

[5litrarag]

Before you do ANY of this...is your radiator the original since you've owned the car? How long has it been in there (if you know)? Ever replaced the Radiator cap?
When does it start to get hot? While driving? Sitting in traffic? Are you SURE your fan turns on.... BOTH speeds high and low?

First thing I'd try is the overlooked crap... grab a Ford OEM cap. They are cheap and can make a big difference. Next I'd try checking the fan to make sure it turns on and kicks into High speed when it needs to.

 

[carbuff]

Im having the same problem with my 98 v6. Its been fine until this crazy heat hit. Now it overheats If I drive it too far. It was fine driving home from work tonight. Too hot for this stuff.

 

[Javi]

Things I can suggest to do/look

* Change cap
* Change your mixture
* Make sure fan is coming on, http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?7232-How-To-Manually-Turn-on-your-Fan
* Burp the system

 

[RichV]

Definitely make sure stuff works 1st before you spend $ on a flush.

As far as the shops, I've had very good luck with my company vehicles using the lube places. System flush is typically $1-150 depending on vehicle. But, you can get a BIG aluminum radiator on ebay for less than $200.

Also what works very well on the race track is Water Wetter and Purple Cool, both are available at auto part stores. Other brands are good too.

 

[greenscobie86]

Are you running a 50/50 mix of coolant and water? If not you should be.

I wouldn't pay a place to do this. You can probably do an entire system overhaul for the same price and be totally sorted out.

 

[cobraracer46]

I would get a new radiator that is twice the size of the stock one like this Fluidyne unit.

I put a Fluidyne oversize radiator in my Cobra a few years ago and I highly recommend it.

 

[Twista]

Barely made it home today in this 100 degree weather. I need my car since its m DD pretty much (not exactly always but most of the time its my DD )

So im buying a Spectra Premium Radiator today from pep boys for $98 and new coolant and water wetter. If that doesn't work guess ill look @ the water pump, but im hoping a new radiator fixes this issue.

Searching google shows its Canadian made which is better than China. Plastic caps but at this point i just need the car to work in this heat.
http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8848440/00514/?quantity=1

 

[Twista]

current radiator..

Is this bad? Or can it be cleaned?? Still might just buy a new one:

 

[Shifty Powers]

One of the next things on my car will be an entire cooling system overhaul.. Replacing the hoses/tank/fans/radiator.

Once i get the money lol. But yea I would start with a cap and then go with the other options these guys said.. make sure your running 50/50.. if its super diluted its not going to stay cool

 

[5litrarag]

Is it the original radiator? What about the rad. cap?? Based on what you said above, I'm assuming the car still heats up even while driving. If so, chances are the rad. has lost enough efficiency that it should be swapped out. But that efficiency could be leaking right out of your rad. cap. So change it...its easily done and its cheap. (get a Ford cap 16 lb.)
As for looking at the water pump, dont bother. If its not leaking out the weep hole, its fine. What about the thermostat??

 

[RichV]

Yea, the t'stat is the other thing, but if you're overheating only in hot weather it's probably fine. May be a good swap if you're getting everything new anyways.

The 50/50 mix is just for corrosion purposes. Water alone cools just fine, but it's not good for the iron/aluminum for very long. In most racing you cannot run coolant because if you dump it, it the track needs to be cleaned. So I can only run water and an additive like Water Wetter which has anti-corrosive additives as well. It will freeze however.

 

[Shifty Powers]

^ ah nice.. yea coolant needs to be cleaned.. and is slick as well when on track..

 

[Photonfanatic]

Don't know if its been suggested, but take a hose and spray the hell out of the front of the AC condenser, and the back of the radiator. Also, try like hell to get the water down in between the radiator and the condenser. Get it in between all those things sticking together, even the trans cooler or power steering cooler. Then take the car to the power washer, and do it all over again with the higher pressure. This cured my overheating problem in the summertime. A whole bunch of dirt and leaves came out, that I couldn't see just looking at it from any angle.

If not, like others said a new radiator works wonders. Also make sure your thermostat is working. You can take your car to a good shop, where they run this abrasive material all through your cooling system, even the block. This will clean out years of trash.

 

[Twista]

The new radiator is working better. Not perfect but doesn't overheat so on the the next problem till i get a chance to relook @ cooling system.

Battery light comes on and goes off. I brought a cheap alternator from autozone when i was broke 3 years ago. Couldn't afford the one with a warranty.. so maybe its biting me in the ass now.

 

[Twista]

Ok so i got a real gauge installed. Stays @ 195 for a long time... goes up to 200 then drops back down to 196ish for the most part. ( This was with the a/c running and driving for about 1 hour)

Now whats the "RED ZONE" i wanna stay away from? I need to test the car in 90 degree weather and see what it does. From what i can see it stays at my thermostat rating which is 195 degrees i think.

Also didnt know how to mount it yet so i just ghetto-rigged it so i can test the car.

Really my bank is hurting now. My entire cooling system is new and i dont think it needed it.
New Radiator
New Fan
New Ect sensor
New temp sender
New coolant
New waterpump - Old one had play in shaft but i doubt it was really bad
New thermostat


and still had the running hot problem. Just installed this gauge in the stock sensor location and its not overheating so far. I have to test it in 90 degree weather to see. If it turns out my system is okay im 100% done with factory gauges in my performance cars.


World of advice to anyone with a stock gauge and overheating. Before you spend a lot of cash on unneeded stuff.. buy a mechanical temp/water gauge and see your correct temp

Thanks

 

[5litrarag]

Ever replaced the Radiator cap?
Are you SURE your fan turns on.... BOTH speeds high and low?

First thing I'd try is the overlooked crap... grab a Ford OEM cap. They are cheap and can make a big difference. Next I'd try checking the fan to make sure it turns on and kicks into High speed when it needs to.

Is it the original radiator? What about the rad. cap?? Based on what you said above, I'm assuming the car still heats up even while driving. If so, chances are the rad. has lost enough efficiency that it should be swapped out. But that efficiency could be leaking right out of your rad. cap. So change it...its easily done and its cheap. (get a Ford cap 16 lb.)
As for looking at the water pump, dont bother. If its not leaking out the weep hole, its fine. What about the thermostat??

Really my bank is hurting now. My entire cooling system is new and i dont think it needed it.
New Radiator
New Fan
New Ect sensor
New temp sender
New coolant
New waterpump - Old one had play in shaft but i doubt it was really bad
New thermostat


and still had the running hot problem. Just installed this gauge in the stock sensor location and its not overheating so far. I have to test it in 90 degree weather to see. If it turns out my system is okay im 100% done with factory gauges in my performance cars.

Your system obviously DID and still needs something or you wouldnt be maxing out the temps.
Get a Rad. Cap, and dont cheap out on it. FORD.
Also, the fan you got... is it NEW or is it off some other car? Does it go into high speed when its supposed to? Hook up a code reader and run a key on engine off test. That will tell you....

 

[Twista]

Your system obviously DID and still needs something or you wouldnt be maxing out the temps.
Get a Rad. Cap, and dont cheap out on it. FORD.
Also, the fan you got... is it NEW or is it off some other car? Does it go into high speed when its supposed to? Hook up a code reader and run a key on engine off test. That will tell you....

My car is fine. Nothing was wrong that would cause overheating. My stock gauge was obviously broken. In 74 degrees weather with nothing changed but the mechanic temp gauge. Im able to drive with the A/C on and temp never goes above 200-205 (with a 195 thermostat) If i hook my stock gauge back up an drive it would be over to the ":L" in normal in no time with the a/c on.

Also i brought a used fan but it didnt change anything. So i just put my stock original fan back on.
Key on test did cycle the low/high fan when i tried it last week.
Rad Cap is semi-new.


Bad= Stock Temp Gauge!
About ready to throw the stock gauge out the window.. its useless i see now.
Thanks