Car won't start, AGAIN!! help!

Dr Fildo

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95' Gt. Car seems to not be getting any spark. Last summer, I replaced just about every electrical component one the car...and the distributor TWICE. She cranks fine, fuel pump is priming, 1/2 tank o gas, just no ignition. Only 3k miles since last distributor change. Garaged every winter.

Any suggestions (besides a "for sale" sign)? :BangHead:
 
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Dr Fildo

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SN-95.0Beast... What is a TFI box?

I just pulled the codes from a scanner - 1,1,1,6,6,3,6...I get that 111 means no problems, but I can't figgure out the 6,6,3,6 part.
 

SN-95.0Beast

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the TFI modules shit out all the time, and that will cause your car not to start, mine went and i had no idea what was wrong for like 2 months. I was getting spark and fuel, ect...It just wasn't "enough" spark
 
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Dr Fildo

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Both the guy at NAPA and the guy at Advance Auto Parts are telling me it's the ICM. Is that what you mean? Is there a way to test the module?
 
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Dr Fildo

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And here's another piece of the puzzle. I just unstrapped the air filter box to check the air filter. Clean. Just for ha ha's I tried to start it, and bingo, starts right up. Strapped the air box together, turned it off, tried to start again...Started right up.

If the TFI, or ICM is bad, would the car start up at all??

Since I get no codes, should I expect that i'll have this problem again? Cause i've fixed nothing.
 

modo

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when a tfi is generally bad the car will not start when hot... as soon as it cools off completely it will start again. it was more of a problem on the pre-94 cars because it was mounted directly to the distributor and more heat.
 

toyman

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TFI modules on the SN95's are not usually a problem like they were on the earlier Fox's when the TFI was attached to the distributor. More often than not on the SN's the trouble is the stator (PIP). This sensor is attached to the distributor shaft.
 
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Dr Fildo

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It's been running fine since Saturday. Which actually makes me nervous, cause I'm just waiting to get stuck somewhere, but whatever.

Thanks for the input fellas.
 

95 svt cobra

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Next time that happens take out a plug and see if its wet. If so put the plug back in, disconnect the pigtail from your fuel pump shut off switch and keep cranking till the car fires. Once it does let it run all the fuel out of the cylinders/lines till it dies, then reconnect the pigtail and restart. This has happened to me a few times after i swapped to larger injectors and a larger fuel pump. Plugs are getting fouled.
 

Naptown_Stang

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Make sure you check every little wire, this recently happened to me and it turned out to be a small ignition wire that was disconnected.
 

CC'S95GT

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TFI=Thick Film Injection
ICM=Ignition Control Module
TFI= ICM. same same
The ICM is located under the air filter box. It's bolted to an alumnium block with fins on it (heat sink).

Ck the wiring on the ICM. Make sure it's plugged in completely and tight.
Another thing to ck that's in the same area is the CCRM. wiring. It's on a bracket on the back of the radiatorby the rad expansion tank.
 

wannaboost94gt

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Get a multimeter and start hunting wires or take it to an automotive electrician. I had the same problem after my motor swap.
 
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Dr Fildo

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The plugs may be getting fowled. I replaced the dizzy last year and never had it timed properly. Seems to run well (when it starts) but I'm thinking maybe it's been running rich for too long.? Doesn't that usually lead to fouled plugs? Unfortunately I have no sense of smell, so I can't smell the unburned fuel from running rich.

@ 95 svt Cobra - The car needs fuel to start...wouldn't all the plugs be a little wet after I try to start it??? Probably a stupid question, but I'm not the most experienced car guy. It does seem to me to be a flooding type of problem.

I replaced the CCRM approx 3k ago. Fixed my overheat/hot a/c/bad fan problem. I'll check the wires. Thanks CC.

I've heard the the ICM/TFI problems tend to happen with hot starting, but my problem seems to be mostly when cold starting.
 

CC'S95GT

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Get the timing verified. 10*btdc is stock, I'm running 12* and still able to run 87 octane fuel.
Ck for codes. It's possible to have one set without actually have the cel on.
Have someone with a multimeter verify voltage at the TPS is .98vdc.
 
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Dr Fildo

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Update: I checked the codes - no help there. Only code I get that means anything is "unable to control RPM" during the KOER test. Not sure if that fits into the equasion or how, but the problem ended up being the distributor...again. I pulled it, and it wasn't spinning properly anyway, so I replaced it, and she runs great again. 4th distributor in 2 years. I'm going to get it timed tomorrow. CC: I don't have a multimeter or know anyone that has one, so I'll have to invest in that and learn how to use it.

Is it possible that my engine somehow shortens the life of the distributor - like something else is fouling up the operation of the distributor, or have I just been getting poor quality replacements?
 

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