cel blinks four times after startup

heehaw80

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hey all hope everyone had a great Christmas!!! I have a 94 gt 5.0 5 speed with 75,000 on the engine, and 241,000 0n the chassis, every time I start the car warm or cold it will idle up as it should then the cel will blink 4 times and the engine will rev up to 2,000 rpms for about a min then crash like you unplug the iac and stumble and sputter for a few seconds and then level out and idle and run great until you shut it off and start it again and then the same thing all over again unless you take off or at least bump the throttle before the cel blinks then it wont do it. The engine is basically stock iac is cleaned and working, egr is deleted and smog is deleted for years, o2 sensors were replaced two months ago, all other sensors were check and spec out ok, tps is good and set right, throttle body and intake cleaned, it has a new motorcraft distributor that I put in about three months ago and timing is set at 12*, fuel pressure is good, no vacuum leaks and up till a week ago the car ran awesome, its my daily driver to work, the car runs great after it does this stunt and the mileage is still good and there are not codes at all I will check for codes none disconnect the battery clear the computer do the idle relearn and drive it for a few days and then check for codes none present 111 on both memories, anyone ever hear of this????
 
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heehaw80

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yes mine does the same thing but its not a vacuum leak I eliminated one vacuum line at a time to check ever one
 
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heehaw80

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I sprayed ether around the intake throttle body intake between the maf and the throttle body took off all the vacuum lines at the manifold and capped everyone even the hydrovac and pcv and checked the short line to the fuel pressure regulator there are absolutely no vacuum leaks
 

CobraClone94

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When i figure it out, You'll be the first to know.
I sprayed ether around the intake throttle body intake between the maf and the throttle body took off all the vacuum lines at the manifold and capped everyone even the hydrovac and pcv and checked the short line to the fuel pressure regulator there are absolutely no vacuum leaks


The other thing I did, IDK if it made a diff, was a replaced my plug wires... and cleaned my MAF and IAC... Good luck figuring it out, I was so happy when I got mine fixed.
 
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heehaw80

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the plugs are newer, I replaced the wires with bocsh wires to eliminate a miss fire a month ago so there good iac was cleaned and checks out maf was cleaned back in summer probably wouldn't hurt to clean it again
 
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heehaw80

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yes and I got a 111 on the koeo and a 311 314 on koer but my smog stuffs been gone and I have always gotten those two codes
 
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heehaw80

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just did a koeo and a koer test and got a 543 on both tests (also 311 an 314 on the koer but I always get those two cause all the smog stuffs been gone)
 

CC'S95GT

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543 - When the PCM commanded the fuel pump on, voltage was not detected on FPM
Sound like a loose wire or bad ground.
 

CC'S95GT

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Possible causes:


  • No Starts:
  • Open circuit between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit.
  • Fuel pump relay contacts always open.
  • Engine Starts:
  • Left/Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) short to power
  • Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) .
  • Does the engine start?
Yes -- For all dual HO2S applications: Go to X86. See: X86 - Check Front/Left HO2S For Short to Power
NOTE: Due to the internal circuitry of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) , a Left/Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) signal short to power could produce a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 542/543.



  • Key "OFF".
  • Disconnect left or front H02S.
Oxygen Sensor Connector
41933922



  • Measure resistance between HO2S signal pin and KEY POWER pin at the HO2S connector.
  • Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
if you need more LMK
 
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heehaw80

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wow thank you, ill have to give that a try and i'll let ya know!!!
 

CC'S95GT

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for some reason I couldn't copy/paste the pic. It is the end of the O2 sensor connector.
 
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heehaw80

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well I think I figured out my problem I pulled the distributor cap off and turned it over, the pins were all corroded and burned so I put a new cap and rotor on and cleared the codes (unhooked battery for 30 min while re doing the plug wires) it started on one crank instead of a whole bunch of cranks like before and idled so smooth
 
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heehaw80

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I just pulled my cap of the distributor and I think I found the problem, the pins on the inside of the cap were all corroded so I got a new cap and rotor, unhooked the battery and replaced it, she started on the first revolution instead of five or six revolutions like before, the old cap and rotor was only two years old maybe 15-20,000 miles
 
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heehaw80

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damn, it still blinks four times on startup but only when shes cold stopped and started her a few times before work and no four blinks after warmup only cold, thinking maybe coil, its original with 241,000 on it
 

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