Clean Kill Switch Install

97stanger

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I'm in the process of putting a Moroso kill switch on my car. Not really a fan of hacking up the rear bumper or drilling holes through the license plate and wanted something clean. Removed the closeout panel that holds the license plate, and popped out the original lock cylinder. In the process of installing kill switch through original key hole and I think it should make for a real clean look, for anybody else interested this switch fits like factory:

 

ttocs

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question: If you kill the switch, will the actuator still open the trunk? Just wondering what might happen if there was a fire back there. Hit the kill switch right? But then you can't open the trunk to put the fire out so turn it back on?
 
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97stanger

97stanger

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hmmm yeah thats a good question. I still have my battery mounted up front under the hood so there would never be a fire in my trunk but I completely get what youre saying.
 

ttocs

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There is plenty of wiring back there that could still catch fire. Maybe you can set it up so the latch opens the trunk as it kills power with a simple cable wrapped around it or something?
 
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97stanger

97stanger

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I'll be sure to give it thought, appreciate it. Honestly, for how much I drive this car and actually have time for it don't know if that will really be a concern but I'll keep you guys updated. I'm actually more doing the kill switch in regards to my battery always getting drained. More of a preventative as when the car sits for some time I can just kill the switch instead of disconnecting the terminal all the time.
 

ttocs

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Not trying to shoot down your idea I hope you understand, hoping to fix a problem before it comes up. See where the actuator pulls to open the lock and I bet it would not be hard to rig something up that would work to open it from the back with out power still.
 
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97stanger

97stanger

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Oh no you didnt at all I'm going through with it. I'm sure I can make some sort of emergency pull to open the trunk like you said. I just see more hack jobs with these switches than not and it looks factory and so clean mounted there.
 

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C8647A0A-AEC4-4A70-9926-5D02DC2100DB-15468-000003B27572EB09_zps25bfc50e.jpg

Sure do
 
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97stanger

97stanger

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^ ive seen a few cars that have done it that way and it came out really clean. Props to that
 

Musturd

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^ exact look im going for. Seriously can't beat that. Love it man


Thanks a lot man, yea I'm with you I was totally against cutting stuff after brand new paint my alarm has a trunk release an glove box as well so I'm fine
 
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97stanger

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Thanks a lot man, yea I'm with you I was totally against cutting stuff after brand new paint my alarm has a trunk release an glove box as well so I'm fine

I thought about that too, but the glove box release is also run off of power, so if switch is off neither key fob or glove box switch will work
 

Musturd

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I thought about that too, but the glove box release is also run off of power, so if switch is off neither key fob or glove box switch will work


This is true ill have to run a cable to the cabin now that I think of it to be able to get in right now if worst case I crawl threw the once back seat and unlock it
 

ttocs

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With the lock rod going through the hole it should be right in line with the actuator to pull the lock open. It probably would not be a big deal to weld a flat piece to the rod with a hole in the end that you could attach a pull-cable to connect to the lock. With a little work you could probably set it up to turn it a 1/4 turn to kill the battery and then 1/3-1/2 turn to open the trunk.
 

duff daddy

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Remember with the battery in the back you have 2 options, 1 seal battery in box and vent out side car, or 2, leave battery open, not sealed in a box and enclose bulkhead and package tray with steal "rear firewall"
 

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