Good example, it looks like the factory would use more cable length than the MM. I currently have the MM cable and quadrant with different brand firewall adjuster and it fit well. Haven't driven yet due to a move, but the assembly was straight forward. I don't think it would have fit on the previous double hook quadrant.
Clutch Cable Question
- Thread starter Venompower
- Start date
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Venompower
Active Member
Ok got the cable in and got it adjusted… it’s a little hard to shift while driving, would that mean tighten it a little more?
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Venompower
Active Member
Well no matter how far out I turned it, it didn’t want to shift from neutral with the engine running. My take is that the quadrant is just to small… I removed the spacer and used the MM cable and adjuster with the BBK Gripp quadrant which was larger and it’s all good. The adjuster didn’t need to be unscrewed nearly as much…
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Venompower
Active Member
Yes, I was never thrilled about the idea that the kit needed a spacer in the first place… like the quadrant should just be larger.
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Venompower
Active Member
I’ll take it for now… the BBK quadrant with the OEM cable was too short, so you couldn’t adjust out from the firewall which made the clutch engagement weird with wheel hop issues. The MM cable being longer allowed me to adjust out at the firewall and the clutch engagement is smoother than it was with the OEM. I don’t like that it all didn’t work together but I can drive it which is all that matters.
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Venompower
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I think the best explanation for how to adjust was a video I found of a Mach 1. When they started the vehicle the ToB was chirping a little, and while idling the advice was the loosen the adjuster until the ToB stopped chirping and that should be enough preload for everything to be good.
The alternative was to tighten it until it had no preload and didn’t touch at all… which of course is opposite of how it was engineered. The video even stated it would be very loose and your clutch pedal would vibrate like crazy.
The alternative was to tighten it until it had no preload and didn’t touch at all… which of course is opposite of how it was engineered. The video even stated it would be very loose and your clutch pedal would vibrate like crazy.
That Mustang Guy
Member
When using the stock cable you must use a double hook quadrant for it to work properly.
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Venompower
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If you go back through I was using the complete Maximum Motorsports kit, and even with the adjuster turned all the way out it wouldn’t shift.
I had to use the larger BBK single hook quadrant to get it to work.
I was commenting on the fine tuning, so much is preference but that video made sense to me. The chirp is because it’s too lightly seated, so it gives you a clear point to work from and then you adjust from there until the chirp stops meaning it’s preloaded.
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Venompower
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I’m sure their response will be that it has something to do with the QuickTime/TKO combo… though for all the searching I did I never encountered any TKO users who had to run any specific cable.
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Venompower
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Well having clutch dis-engagement issues again. Drove the car probably 200 miles since I went back to the BBK Quadrant with the MM cable, and started to notice that towards the end of the drive the shifter was getting harder and harder to get in gear. This past weekend took the car out to take some photos for my Instagram account, and half way through almost had complete lockout, extremely hard to get the car in gear at a stop of to shift.
Engagement is very close to the firewall so I assume, the cable isn't tight enough. Contacted a local Mustang shop to see about having them put it on a lift and inspect/adjust as I just want to be done. Love the TKO600 but aftermarket components sometimes make this sort of adjustment a nightmare. I haven't heard back from the shop yet, so ready to have these annoying issues resolved so I can just enjoy the car.
Engagement is very close to the firewall so I assume, the cable isn't tight enough. Contacted a local Mustang shop to see about having them put it on a lift and inspect/adjust as I just want to be done. Love the TKO600 but aftermarket components sometimes make this sort of adjustment a nightmare. I haven't heard back from the shop yet, so ready to have these annoying issues resolved so I can just enjoy the car.
cobrajeff96
Well-Known Member
Yea tighten the cable first and see what happens.
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Venompower
Active Member
Well I just talked to the shop, and they advised the MM kit runs into trouble when the trans/bellhousing isn't stock. They advised they may need to use a UPR triple hook quadrant, and that if they could just adjust it, the fee would be about $125.
When I mentioned the McLeod clutch and the clutch fork sitting almost all the way back, he advised that typically you have to use a different pivot ball to get the correct adjustment. Dropping the trans means a fee around $500, which I feel is fair... probably put a new throw out bearing in as well. If I was younger and single I might try to drop the transmission myself, but with limited time (kids) it's not something I feel I can tackle myself right now.
When I mentioned the McLeod clutch and the clutch fork sitting almost all the way back, he advised that typically you have to use a different pivot ball to get the correct adjustment. Dropping the trans means a fee around $500, which I feel is fair... probably put a new throw out bearing in as well. If I was younger and single I might try to drop the transmission myself, but with limited time (kids) it's not something I feel I can tackle myself right now.
cobrajeff96
Well-Known Member
Oh I think you ID'd the problem then. The lever bar should be right in the middle of the bellhousing window.
