Clutch Cable Question

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Venompower

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Ok, same as mine. Although I wound up using a different FW screw that is much thicker. Probably nothing worth pondering over then.

I did however ditch the single hook and got myself a double hook a while back because I think the MM single had my cable a bit too taught right off the bat. Might be what you have to do. ANd now that I think about it, for a short number of years I would take a C-clamp to the ear of the bellhousing and the clutch fork. It worked fine, but added another step to the process.

I can't remember if it was that which made me go dub hook or if it was because of a change to the clutch package altogether.
I'm going to give it one more go... and hopefully the firewall adjuster takes care of it... if it doesn't I'll just buy the Steeda Quadrant and try to use my OEM cable. MM was far and away the most expensive option, which I was fine with if it works... all the reviews rave about it...
 

badass98svt

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I don't think I'd screw the adjuster all the way in either. Technically, when it's all installed and adjusted correctly, you should have about a dimes thickness of space between the adjuster and the cable.
 
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i think its just some user error. i have the mm firewall and quadrant thing along with a factory 300k mile cable. no issues for me so... idk bud

couple pictures in here for reference

 

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I don't think I'd screw the adjuster all the way in either. Technically, when it's all installed and adjusted correctly, you should have about a dimes thickness of space between the adjuster and the cable.
I'm trying to understand this post. If there's any space between the firewall adjuster and cable flange, how is there any tension on the cable?
 

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That's not the important part. In the end, the only thing that matters is that the stick can go into every gear with the engine running at idle, wheels on the ground, with just enough cable tension to allow this. Once the adjuster firewall screw starts to fight against you, then go from there. There needs to be slight preload on the pressure plate at all times.
I disagree that there should be preload on PP at all times. That will keep the throwout bearing engaged and spinning all the times and burn it out very quickly. There should be a (very) little play at top of pedal before the bearing engages the PP.

If he does not have enough pedal travel / cable length to completely engage and disengage the clutch, the quadrant or fork travel may be wrong. I’ve never used a Quicktime, but maybe mfg can confirm proper fork to use with it. If fork / bell or quadrant / cable aren’t matched that can cause what you are describing.

I used Lakewood scatter shield on 95 and stock bell housing on 98 with stock cable, quadrant and fork with a firewall adjuster on prolly 6 different clutch combos over 10 years and did not have the issues you are describing, but I did need the firewall adjuster to make the different clutches work correctly, especially with the Lakewood.
 

cobrajeff96

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Incorrect. The PP should have about 5lbs of preload at all times. Ford directs this, even calling the TOB a "Constant Contact Bearing." You will shorten the lifespan of the bearing by allowing air gap, as a bearing at rest suddenly spinning into motion (especially at higher rpms) shock loads it tremendously. Newton's First Law of Motion.
 
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Incorrect. The PP should have about 5lbs of preload at all times. Ford directs this, even calling the TOB a "Constant Contact Bearing." You will shorten the lifespan of the bearing by allowing air gap, as a bearing at rest suddenly spinning into motion (especially at higher rpms) shock loads it tremendously. Newton's First Law of Motion.
Yeah everything I had read says you want a slight pre-load on the bearing.

I still maintain that the instructions would be better off to advise to not screw the adjustor all the way in... but to unscrew it a 1/4 to 1/2 way out and adjust from there... I'll probably rubber band the cable to the quadrant, and then adjust until I can just get the clutch end on, then tighten it up from there for the slight pre-load.
 
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you know what, i just remembered something and this may be of use for you @Venompower dont mind me if this has already been mentioned, but...

the quick time pivot point is adjustable, so if you can, take the bellhousing off and adjust the pivot point for the fork since that could be whats helping cause the porblem
 

cobrajeff96

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Good point, and just to add you want the fork to be centered in the bellhousing window just as the bearing touches the PP.
 
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you know what, i just remembered something and this may be of use for you @Venompower dont mind me if this has already been mentioned, but...

the quick time pivot point is adjustable, so if you can, take the bellhousing off and adjust the pivot point for the fork since that could be whats helping cause the porblem
Until I get a friend with a lift, the transmission is staying in lol
 

cobrajeff96

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Be nice if the pivot stud went all the way through the to the back of the bellhousing with a recessed torx or allen in the center of the shaft, and then an external jam nut or something like that. Sheesh, Ford.
 
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Venompower

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Be nice if the pivot stud went all the way through the to the back of the bellhousing with a recessed torx or allen in the center of the shaft, and then an external jam nut or something like that. Sheesh, Ford.
Clutch fork sits at the back of the QuickTime bellhousing with no cable, so I think I will be ok with the firewall adjuster. If it was any further forward, my cable length issues would be worse for getting it to tighten up.
 
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i dont know how old you are, but i would already have that thing up in the air and taken apart to get to the trans if i were you with time permitting. since you have a quick time all you need to do is take off those 4 bolts to pull the trans out. cant weight that much. especially in comparison to the t45 which you cant remove the bellhousing

37585069160_d880619205_o.jpg

42674733632_370b057def_o.jpg

man ive ripped this thing out so many times...
 
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i dont know how old you are, but i would already have that thing up in the air and taken apart to get to the trans if i were you with time permitting. since you have a quick time all you need to do is take off those 4 bolts to pull the trans out. cant weight that much. especially in comparison to the t45 which you cant remove the bellhousing

View attachment 18970

View attachment 18971

man ive ripped this thing out so many times...
I’m 39 with a 2 year old and 5 year old… time is the one thing I definitely don’t have lol.
 

weendoggy

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I've been using this cable on my Cobra as well as my '02 GT and it works great. I like it because I can adjust from either end, although I do set it to make it easy at the firewall. Still using it in my newly swapped Coyote with 3650. The Cobra has a QT and TKO500. I have the cable on the first hook (above the ST).

1658405267739.png

Had to correct my transmission. Too much on my mind. :)
 
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I've been using this cable on my Cobra as well as my '02 GT and it works great. I like it because I can adjust from either end and make, although I do set it to make it easy at the firewall. Still using it in my newly swapped Coyote with 3560. The Cobra has a QT and TKO500. I have the cable on the first hook (above the ST).View attachment 18972
I'm pretty confident that the MM kit will work this time with some adjustment, but if it doesn't that's the kit I will go with.
 

Notthenow

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It may be the quadrant is the issue, I have used three different ones and if I remember correctly, the hook placement/quadrant shape is a little different on each one. I'd send photos, but they are buried in moving boxes.
 

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