Clutch issues continue..

searay86

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Alright so to see your guys' opinion.

Car has always sucked going into gear but would go. Was told from last owner that it had a new clutch in it. Finally got around to doing something about this fall. Found out the plate between the bell housing and the engine was broke in half. The TOB was in pieces and the pilot bearing was egg shaped. So I assumed that was because the clutch was not lined up to the input shaft due to the broken plate. And also got a new clutch cable, fire wall adjuster, and quadrant. The oem plastic one actually broke in pieces.

Skip to a month later of driving good the pedal got super stiff again and only got in gear when the pedal is on the floor. I got underneath the car this past weekend and noticed the clutch fork being loose. But not loose in the direction of the drive shaft. it moved a few inches perpendicular to the drive shaft if that makes sense.

I pushed the clutch fork so it was closest to the drive shaft, roughly adjusted the cable and took it for a drive. Car drove frickin amazing. Never shifted this smooth before and hooked amazingly.
On my way back went to shift and nothing. The pedal had to go to floor to get in gear it sounded absolutely horrible. Finally got it inside and when I use the clutch, clutch fork pushed in or not, it sounds like metal on metal. And smelled like something burning
ideas?

What I think: It is the clutch fork and pivot stud and the noise is the TOB going south?
 

Paladin1001

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Sounds right to me, my pivot bolt was shot when i did the clutch a few months ago and the fork spring was bad so it wanted to fall off of the pivot bolt.
 
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searay86

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Finally got under the car. Think I found the noise.. I already got a new FP TOB, pivot stud and clutch fork. Should I add a TOB retainer to the list?
641d0a89166cf40be1b64b4970b01e7c.jpg


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Paladin1001

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The clutch fork has the TOB retainer on it, so you should already have that if you ordered a fork. that looks pretty bad, I would like to see pics once its out.
 
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searay86

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The more I research the t45 the more I get confused. Lmr says 99 t45 has a retainer but then other forums says its casted in the bell housing. Heres what I got so far
553c12e6868785ac84f37cfba476acf2.jpg


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Paladin1001

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X2 you are G2G, get to pulling that trans. By the way the easiest way to get the two upper bell housing bolts out is to get a really long ratcheting boxed end and do it from the top.
 
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searay86

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To be honest, I'll probably take it somewhere. I want to do all my own work but if I was the car to move by spring, I have to just take it somewhere.. lol

but thanks both for confirming!
 

Paladin1001

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If you have a garage to work in there is a great youtube video by Chris Fix on one of these cars, he did a full transmission swap with new clutch and all associated parts. Its very labor intensive but not hard per say. Great learning experience and probably save you 700 bucks.
 
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searay86

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True Id love to learn more. I'm sure I could do it. Theres a local mechanic that is super cheap.. Bring the parts and he'll swap it out for $300. Makes it hard to do my own work when he is so cheap lmao. he just does it on the side for friends
 
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searay86

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ALRIGHT FOLKS

A little closure

Ending up putting in a new FP TOB, FP Input bearing, FP clutch fork/pivot stud, input/out seals, Mcleod steel flywheel, Mcleod street pro clutch and hardware. After some adjusting with the steeda cable and fire wall adjuster the car feels amazing. Drives smooth AND NO NOISES.

thanks for the help.

and when I actually start building the car regularly I'll start a build thread to put everything in one place.
 

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