Clutch Pedal/Cable/Fork Noise Only With Engine Running

[StangGrin]

What are some thoughts on this (like which parts are going)?


When my engine is running and I press my clutch there is a creak/squeek sound. It seems to be coming from the shift fork area and the top of the clutch pedal. If the engine is off, pressing the clutch pedal doesn't makes any noise. There aren't any other noises from the clutch when the engine is running.


Even though this is my first real car the clutch feels heavier than I expected and a bit vague when letting it out.


My Mustang is a 1999 GT with 141,000 on it. It's made this sound since I bought it 8 months ago (134,000 miles).


I look forward to any help -thanks.

 

[Slykin]

Does it squeek continuously if you hold the clutch pedal in one position? For example, halfway pushed down? My clutch creeks as you're pushing the pedal down, but I believe mine needs lubed somewhere. If yours squeels with the clutch held in a bit, there's a good chance that it's the Throwout bearing.

 

[quickstang_1994]

sounds like a clutch cable they go out often

 

[Slykin]

sounds like a clutch cable they go out often

Wouldn't that still make noise with the engine off though?

 

[quickstang_1994]

should but i always noticed mine when it was running, it wasnt a smooth push down and creeked

 

[robb15033]

We all suffer from it. Careful thiugh, adjusting the cable too tight can cause the throw out bearing engaged all the time. My next plan to address this noise if the FRPP clutch fork.

 

[StangGrin]

Does it squeek continuously if you hold the clutch pedal in one position? For example, halfway pushed down? My clutch creeks as you're pushing the pedal down, but I believe mine needs lubed somewhere. If yours squeels with the clutch held in a bit, there's a good chance that it's the Throwout bearing.

It only creeks when I'm moving the clutch pedal. The TOB makes some sound but it's not bad at all.
I was thinking of lubing/replacing the clutch cable until I noticed the sounds only happen when the engine is running.
Part of me just wants to replace everything: cable, fork, pivot bolt, TOB, clutch, pressure plate, rear seal, and whatever else is in there related to the clutch. But at this point I'm just looking to see what others have to say about this.

Thanks!

 

[StangGrin]

should but i always noticed mine when it was running, it wasnt a smooth push down and creeked

Yeah, mine doesn't feel as smooth as I think it should be. In fact, it feels smoother when the engine isn't running.

 

[nitto389703]

first post here i have the same sound except when the clutch is fully out,then when i put light pressure on clutch pedal about half inch in completely goes away.upshifts,down shift are flawless shes running @ 142k miles...any suggestions

 

[vermilion]

Bearing retainer is made of maulable pot metal. The bearing forks that up.
With a partner Remove dust shield with the engine off and move the clutch. Inspect bearing contact and retainer. The retainer shouldnt move. Also the cable should be smooth. The cable quadrant is plastic. You may hear the plastic gears grinding on it.

 

[StangGrin]

More good info - thanks!

Hopefully I can get to digging into it before too long and then post what I ended-up finding.

 

[blackpony]

Sounds like a throw out bearing is taking a crap. i would suggest a new clutch kit along with new oem ford cable, firewall adjuster and quadrant. Will make the pedal better then new and give you a little adjustability.

 

[StangGrin]

So you're suggesting an after-market quadrant? Which means I lose the adjustability I have now with the OEM quadrant, so I need a firewall adjuster? Is that right?

Also, what kind of hood is that you have?

 

[blackpony]

yes a quadrant and firewall adjuster along with an oem cable will be perfect. i have a cervini cobra r hood.

 

[Willis_98GT]

It only creeks when I'm moving the clutch pedal. The TOB makes some sound but it's not bad at all.
I was thinking of lubing/replacing the clutch cable until I noticed the sounds only happen when the engine is running.
Part of me just wants to replace everything: cable, fork, pivot bolt, TOB, clutch, pressure plate, rear seal, and whatever else is in there related to the clutch. But at this point I'm just looking to see what others have to say about this.

Thanks!

You can get a upr quadrant/adjuster setup for pretty cheap, mine was like 40$.

i agree with your complete overhaul idea. I redid everything when i changed my trans, there should be no reason for a "stiff" petal unless you have some insane clutch set up for major hp.

I have a centerforce DF with a upr quad/firewall adjuster with a ford OEM Cable and a OEM throwout bearing. <-- need to make sure when you get your cable and tob that they are both ford oem. most aftermarket stuff isn't made as good as you would think, ive heard tons of failure storys from non oem applications.

As far as my petal effort, It feels the exact same as my dads 2006 Hydraulic 5speed setup on his GT.

 

[StangGrin]

yes a quadrant and firewall adjuster along with an oem cable will be perfect. i have a cervini cobra r hood.

Alright..thanks. I really appreciate the help with the parts list. Of course I've just added a Cervini Cobra R hood to that list. But I feel having an aggressive hood like that I need get quite a bit more going on under it.

 

[StangGrin]

You can get a upr quadrant/adjuster setup for pretty cheap, mine was like 40$.

i agree with your complete overhaul idea. I redid everything when i changed my trans, there should be no reason for a "stiff" petal unless you have some insane clutch set up for major hp.

I have a centerforce DF with a upr quad/firewall adjuster with a ford OEM Cable and a OEM throwout bearing. <-- need to make sure when you get your cable and tob that they are both ford oem. most aftermarket stuff isn't made as good as you would think, ive heard tons of failure storys from non oem applications.

As far as my petal effort, It feels the exact same as my dads 2006 Hydraulic 5speed setup on his GT.

Man...more great info...thanks! My parts lists is really coming together.

What made you choose Centerforce over other brands?

 

[vermilion]

look at lethal performance check to see if they still have a fiore micro click adjuster and any suitable quadrant. again, the stock piece is plastic.

 

[Willis_98GT]

Man...more great info...thanks! My parts lists is really coming together.

What made you choose Centerforce over other brands?

I drove my engine builders car (5.4L 4V Turbo 2000GT) and its his application Thats how i made my decision at the time.

The design of the centerforce clutch is different then others. you should do a little bit of homework i'll explain what i can but i'm no clutch guru by any means anyone is welcome to chime in and correct me

My clutch is the dual friction centerforce, will be the exact same application for your 99 by the way so just keep that in mind.

The pressure plate has a extra set of "fingers" along with the plate that goes around the actual disc meaning that it has twice as much clamping action and it increases by rpm travel hence giving it the name "Dual Friction". my clutch feels the exact same at 6000rpm as it does rolling out of first idling.

as far as power capacity i dont know the exact ratings, but they offer different discs for different apps. mine is just the first level/stage and i believe its good to 500+ but still offers me complete drivability

engagment and disengagment are like butter - combine it with a OEM ford throwout bearing and lube a brand new cable and you will think you're in a interactive racing video game at a arcade.

let me know if there is anything else we can do.

 

[StangGrin]

look at lethal performance check to see if they still have a fiore micro click adjuster and any suitable quadrant. again, the stock piece is plastic.

Lethal Perf still sells the Fiore with the micro-click adjuster. I've read that others sure like it, too. I've put that on my list...thanks!

Oh...so about how much play would a 99 GT like?