Clutch recommendations

Silversn95

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I have my gt up on jack stands ready for new shocks and struts(whenever they get delivered in these messed-up times) and I took the opportunity to inspect the clutch cable and mechanism. I removed the cable from the clutch fork and noticed a lot of play up and down of the fork. Is this normal? I should add that my tob chirps like a bird when the car warms up. Not sure if all that movement and the noisy bearing are related. Also noticed my rear main seal is leaking. I tried the cable freeplay mod but didn't like the result. It made an already high effort clutch feel even higher effort so I removed it.
After putting everything back I tested out the clutch engagement and noticed that it doesn't truly disengage with the pedal to the floor. When putting into 1st the rear wheels would rotate momentarily. Only did this in first gear, didn't notice it when I put it directly into 2nd or 3rd. Also noticed the clutch engagement happens with the pedal maybe 1.5in off the floor.
Having said all that, and concerned with the noisy tob, should I just drop the transmission and replace everything including the seal and clutch cable? The clutch has always had a higher effort in this car compared to my old 86 gt and wouldnt mind a lower clutch effort. Are there any recommendations from anyone on clutches or cables? I believe everything currently on the car is factory. Looks like factory cable, quadrant and clutch assembly(has valeo stamped on the side)
Below are some pictures of what I see, car has about 167000 kms.
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DKblue98GT

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How do you use your car and what mods does it have. You could go anywhere from stock to something that will handle a lot of power. I would recommend doing a firewall adjuster and stock Ford cable. MM has a nice kit. Wait for it...
 

Silversn95

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Currently there is no real mods on the car other than a Steeda shifter and 3.55 gears but I plan on at least a head/cam/intake upgrade in the future. This is my summer, good weather car. Not really planning to race it. Really just looking for good quality parts and a lower pedal effort over the current stock setup if possible.

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evilcw311

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How do you use your car and what mods does it have. You could go anywhere from stock to something that will handle a lot of power. I would recommend doing a firewall adjuster and stock Ford cable. MM has a nice kit. Wait for it...

Drink fawker!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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joe65

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pretty hard to get a softer pedal feel than the stock. Based on you saying you're not after high hp, i'd stick with a stock ford clutch and the quadrant and adjuster mentioned above. The stock clutch will take a quite a bit of hp unless you start drag racing it.
 

96blak54

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There is the 03/04 cobra parts store equivalent clutch. They generally come lifetime warranty.
This is what ive done and have had good luck so far.
 

TrickVert

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I have a King Cobra clutch in my '95, and like it. Inexpensive, decent performance, and it won't wear out your leg. Mine has some occasional shudder, but that's probably my fault for using it with 400 RWHP.
 

DKblue98GT

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I like to slide my car around a little bit so I wanted something a little stronger than stock

I bought an Exedy Mach 400 clutch and the matching lightweight flywheel. I also have an adjustable firewall quadrant and stock cable.

Pedal pressure is light and action is really smooth. I always use a Motorcraft throw out bearing.

If you don't drive your car hard a stock style clutch would be fine but I would still recommend a firewall adjuster.

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tvsn95

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I use the Mcloud RXT,, the RST burns up in my combo. Its nice and soft but it WILL break everything in the drive train, so be warned. only use as much clutch as you need. Trannys , axles, drive shafts, rear suspension are all expensive, LOL
 

tvsn95

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^^^^ Exactly the reason I've kept the KC clutch.
Yeah, the T5 trans is only good for 310lbs torque, mine went when I floored it in 3rd the second time. then I blew 3rd during a shift with my TKO600 ( thats a terrible trans, don't buy one) Now my T56 mag is doing well , and thats a great trans. changed my whole driving experience. now if I could get some traction LOL
 

TheOdessa

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I like to slide my car around a little bit so I wanted something a little stronger than stock

I bought an Exedy Mach 400 clutch and the matching lightweight flywheel. I also have an adjustable firewall quadrant and stock cable.

Pedal pressure is light and action is really smooth. I always use a Motorcraft throw out bearing.

If you don't drive your car hard a stock style clutch would be fine but I would still recommend a firewall adjuster.

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This this this. The only thing I can think of is I have the UPR metal quadrant as the plastic one wears over time. The firewall adjuster helped dial in where I wanted it to engage.

When TOB's start to chirp it's a sign they are going out. I've played with going in and out with my TOB. Placing it on the clutch fingers lightly, putting it completely off ect. End of the day the TOB was just going bad on a kit I installed from Napa. Went with a FRPP TOB and never had an issue.

When I got my clutch installed with an Exedy Stage 2, I also put in an Exedy LW flywheel, New Ford clutch fork, new Ford pivot stud and FRPP pilot bearing. Zero issues. I also replaced the trans fluid with Royal Purple Synchromesh. Has been golden ever since.
 

Silversn95

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Thank you for the replies. When the time comes I will likely go with Ford performance parts and aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Funny thing is, I don't hear the TOB chirping anymore. After removing the cable and inspecting, trying the spring mod and going back to the factory set-up, no more chirping. I have had it out for a few drives since getting the struts/shocks installed and for the time being the TOB is quiet. Not complaining, just surprised. The new shocks and struts make a huge difference buy the way. The factory ones must have been worn out. No leaks, but differently not doing their job.
 

Silversn95

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Update:
So the chirping came back just before I parked her for the winter. Now that Spring has sprung i decided to take her apart to replace the throwout bearing and rear main seal. Remind me not to do it again! What a pain working on your back.
Anyway, now that it is apart i see a few concerning things.
Number one is the condition of the sleeve the throwout bearing rides on. It has grooves and ridges worn on it. Is this an easy to change part or can I just clean it up and reuse?
Throwout bearing is still in one piece but has a lot of play in it and does not spin smooth and quiet. Not sure it is stock as it looks like a timken design. No part numbers on it to verify but pics below.
I see wear on the pivot ball and pivot point on the clutch fork so I think it needs to be replaced.
Clutch disc itself looks fine but there are three spots on both the flywheel and pressure plate that could indicate an issue. I'm thinking to replace both the flywheel and clutch.

Funny discussion I had with the Ford dealer parts guy. Said they no longer carry the oem replacement clutch and can only get the performance clutch from them. Cant justify the cost so thinking just the OEM replacement from either Luk or Valeo. Really not going to have high power mods so doing this on a budget. It looks like the Luk and Valeo are in the $200 range, dealer wanted $675 for the ford performance unit!

Pictures of what I found:
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papac0rn

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I just went through this on my car. I kinda chickened out on doing this myself so kudos to you.[emoji16]. The local shop put in a Napa clutch which is made by Luk because I wanted to keep the soft factory feel. They also resurfaced the flywheel. I put on less than 100 miles and the clutch was slipping already and I had a rough vibration felt through the car. I ended up ordering the Ford Performance clutch and a new flywheel. When I went back I told them to replace them again. Didn't want to pay them to swap parts too many times. Anyway they think the flywheel was resurfaced down to minimums and wasn't catching. When they pulled it out the flywheel already had burn marks again. The luk clutch was very light but didn't seem like it downshifted or dragged the car down when coming to a stop like the oem. I took the Ford clutch out last night for an hour drive and kinda like it. My complaint with it is that it is very stiff. I bet it's double the pedal effort from the luk. Did seem to get better the more I drove it. Maybe I'm getting used to it? It grabs on much better and even though the pedal is stiffer my shifts are smoother. Shifting between the gears is a bit notchy too. I suspect that will smooth out too. I wish the luk would have worked out. Fyi the Ford clutch has Valeo stamped on it fro Korea.

Hope this helps.

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Silversn95

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I wonder if your initial issue with the Luk clutch was just a clutch cable adjustment issue. Hard to imagine refinishing a flywheel would be enough to cause a problem. I went with a new Luk flywheel since it was similar price to getting the stock one resurfaced. New valeo clutch assembly and ford performance throwout bearing as well. Funny thing is, the valeo kit came with what appeared to be the same bearing. Looked identical. The only difference is it came in an unmarked box where the Ford bearing came in an identical box but with the Ford label on the side I also changed out the damaged bearing retainer sleeve with the steel Ford performance part. Felt good to do it myself but I'm not sure I would do it again. Just too much of a pain working under the car without a hoist and there was a couple times an extra pair of hands would have helped a lot. End result is a smooth operating clutch that feels a little lighter and a little more progressive than before. Still not beating on it until the break in period is over (500 miles).

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