Cobra/SVO Intake Install and hardware ?

1bad95

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Just picked up tonight an SVO Cobra intake and it came with a 1" spacer. I got a couple questions. Will the egr bolt back up with the 1" spacer? im guessing it wont bc the tube wont be long enough to bolt it back up. Next, what all do i need to get bolt wise for it to install? and lastly is there any tips or instructions on installing this? never done anything like this before and just dont want to foul something up.


thanks everyone
 

wytstang

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Leave the spacer off as you don't need it. You will need longer bolts for the upper intake. Either then that it's pretty straight forward removal/re-installation.
 

wytstang

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Also some folks get lost with the vacuum lines behind the intake so here is a picture for reference
intake_hose_routing.jpg
 
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1bad95

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thanks so much! so not using the spacer wont make much difference? i was hoping to use it to keep the intake cooler as i have read and also so i would have clearance to swap in a set of valve covers
 

wytstang

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If you NEED the spacer for clearance then use it. If not I wouldn't bother as you are adding more length to an already long runner intake. Also 50resto.com sells an egr adapter to help with length. I don't know if it is enough for a 1'' spacer though.
 
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1bad95

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yeah very true, i guess ill just hold the spacer or maybe sell it. You dont happen to know whay bolts i am going to need to bolt the upper down to lower and the lower to the motor do you? i dont have any bolts for it
 
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1bad95

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i have read of people using all-thread and just i guess using the thread as studs and just getting some washers and nuts and mounting it down. would that work also? wondering if i could torque it down like that?
 

wytstang

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Lower bolts get reused, Center upper bolts can be used on the outer holes
Or
Chilton's manual lists the cobra intake bolts as follows:
2@ 5/16 x 18 x 1.62"
2@ 5/16 x 18 x 6.07"
2@ 5/16 x 18 x 6.85"
Or
Two(2) 5.5 inch bolts
Two(2) 6.0 inch bolts
Two(2) 2.0 inch bolts
info from here http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=588357
Bolt kit sold here
performancepartsinc.com (prbably under Misc.) also Ford Racing sells it too.
 

wytstang

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1bad95 said:
i have read of people using all-thread and just i guess using the thread as studs and just getting some washers and nuts and mounting it down. would that work also? wondering if i could torque it down like that?
Yes that will work just make sure the all thread is at least grade 5 but grade 8 is preferred.
 

2slo95fiveoh

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Honestly, i wouldn't half-ass it with washers, and "sloppy" hardware.. Go for one of the above posted links, or write down
all the bolt measurements and head to your local hardware store. You'll be glad you did.
 
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1bad95

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awesome thanks for the into wystang! Very much appreciated!

Yeah i def am going to do it with bolts, i just didnt know if there was a secret to the reason why some people did it that way
 
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1bad95

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also does the stock gt intake have the same vaccume hoses on it? just have to unhook them from mine and re hook them up on the cobra intake?
 

BlkoutGT

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wytstang- thats a good pic, that should be put in the write up section. One of those things you dont think about when swaping intakes, until its too late.lol
 

wytstang

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Same vac hoses. You'll need to transfer over the TB studs, sensor(s), and vac lines. Now is a good time to replace the PCV valve and metal mesh screen and grommet (Back of lower intake/any parts store will have it). Also CAREFULLY remove the EGR gasket as it is a freakin nightmare to find one. Everyone sells the fox one the doesn't work on ours. The TB gasket is hard to find as well, I had to make my own. The site I listed above PPI sell the TB gasket for our cars in case you can't find one. But buying gasket paper and making a new one is simple.
Also the dizzy will have to be removed so here is what you can do to line it back up. Before you loosen it up remove the dizzy cap. Clearly mark were the rotor is pointing. Also clearly mark the base of the dizzy and the block (continuous line).
When you are ready to reinstall try and line up the marks. You may have to remove the dizzy once or twice to get the rotor pointing to your mark. That should get you either dead on or close enough to start and run the car until you can put a timing light to it. When I did it and put the timing light to it it was dead on.
 

Inspector13

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Listen to Wytstang. You definitely wanna mark your dizzy. I'd always double check it with a timing light when your done anyways. Just to make sure.


Also I do run a 1 inch spacer between my upper and lower, but mine is a nitrous plate. The EGR tube is really stretched, but it makes it. Barely. I also run a ARP stud kit on my outer bolt holes of my upper and the inner bolt holes actually have bolts. I think are from Trickflow (as that is who makes my nitrous plate and upper/lower) but I'm not sure.
 
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1bad95

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thanks for all of the info fellas! gonna get it all cleaned up and painted and maybe try and get it installed next weekend
 

94 DropTop

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Weigh your intake to the svo atleas the upper. I swear mine is aluminum and much lighter than the stock one. Thanks.
 

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