cylinder head torquing

[2slo95fiveoh]

hey guys, i know there is a thread started by matt in the "how-to" section. i was wondering if aluminum heads had a different
torque rate for some reason? the thread sounds like its for stock heads (iron) so i was curious if anyone knew if aluminum heads
needed less torque? thanks

 

[Downshift]

What heads? I think AFRs have it on their website, trickflow would probably too or by email.

 

[95-stang]

Very true, AFR say:

HEAD BOLT TORQUE:
Apply moly-oil mixture to washers, and area around head bolt to prevent galling and improper torque readings. Torque to 70 ft/lbs. for 7/16" bolts or studs (289 or 302) or 100 ft/lbs. for 1/2" bolts or studs (351W) in three or four steps following the factory tightening sequence. Then tighten the long (upper) head bolts or studs to 80 ft/lbs. (7/16") or 110 ft/lbs. (1/2"). A re-torque is recommended after initial start-up and cool down (allow 2 - 3 hours for cooling). Sealer should be applied to all head bolts or studs that enter into the blocks water-jacketing system. Permatex is a good general-purpose sealer.

Best to check with the manufacturer.

 

[2slo95fiveoh]

thanks for that, i sent there technical staff an email about it, it said they should respond within 2 days, so i'll see what they say i guess.

 

[OnyxCobra]

With studs and ARP assembly lube i did the small studs to 70lbs and the longer studs to 80lbs and never re-torqued them and they are mint!

 

[ryclef331]

even with studs you SHOULD retorqued the heads but I run studs and MLS Head gaskets and have never retorqued my heads....I checked them once when I was adjusting a valve and they still held tq.

 

[95-stang]

I agree you should re-torque, but i'm guilty of not doing it too, and its not been a problem.