Danny's 1996 GT 5-Speed

DannyZ

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Hey y'all,

I picked up a 1996 Mustang GT 5-speed convertible recently, so I figured I'd post about it here.

This Mustang GT has an interesting backstory. It started when a good friend of mine reached out to get me to inspect and buy a Mustang GT for him. He lives in Orlando, FL and I'm in Phoenix, AZ, so that's why he had me handle the purchase. After I bought it for him, it stayed at my house for a bit until he flew out here to pick it up. He bought it for a YouTube challenge he was doing, so we did a quick and dirty build on it over a weekend, cutting the springs to lower it, installing a cheap cold air intake, removing the back half of the exhaust, and fixing a few other odds and ends. After that, my friend drove it to LA, did the YouTube challenge, and left it parked at a garage near LAX (he had to fly back home) for me to pick up since I had agreed to buy it from him when he was done with it.

This past weekend I took a super long Greyhound ride to LA and picked up the Mustang. While I was in LA I took it to some nice canyon roads in Malibu which was a total blast. I then drove it all the way back home to Phoenix, which went off without a hitch. Here are some pictures I took of it while it was in LA:

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It was absolutely filthy from being thrashed around on a dry lake bed for the video shoot, and the side skirts got torn off. I still have them along with all of their clips, they were laying in the front seat. It's also way too low thanks to the ghetto spring cut job (we cut 2 coils off the front springs and 1.25 coils off the rear springs).

Specs-wise, it's a mostly stock 1996 Mustang GT convertible with a 5-speed manual. Neither the speedometer nor odometer work, so it's been frozen at 182k miles for a while. Reportedly it's near 200k according to the previous owner. The engine runs perfectly for the most part, especially since I just replaced the IAC with a brand new one. The AC works brilliantly since my friend and I filled it up with a cheap Autozone kit. The radio also works since we fixed the previous owner's horribly botched wiring job. The engine doesn't burn any oil and it doesn't appear to be leaking any fluids. The spark plugs, ignition coils, and alternator are all pretty new as well. The tires are in decent shape too, with a good amount of tread left. Not much grip in the rear though since the tires are only 245's.

Now my plan is to clean it up, fix whatever issues it has left, and then add power. My plan is to change the diff gears, install PI heads + intake, install some kind of performance cams, port the PI heads, and eventually install a stroker kit to get the 4.6L to 5.0L. I know I could always swap in another engine or supercharge for easy power, but I'm trying to keep this build as cheap as possible, continuing the cheap theme that my friend and I started with. I'm a relatively skilled mechanic with an extensive background in BMWs (I have a 2000 540i Touring and a 2003 X5 4.6), so I'm no stranger to rebuilding engines, having rebuilt 8 BMW V8's at this point. I have a garage full of tools, plenty of free time, and tons of motivation. Everything I've done on the Mustang so far has been insanely easy, so I don't think I'll have any trouble fixing it up.

Here's my repair to-do list for now:


  • Fix the speedometer— it doesn't work at all. I've already replaced the vehicle speed sensor that's on the transmission, no change there.
  • Fix the leaning driver's seat— the back doesn't stay up so it always looks reclined. Not very comfortable to drive.
  • Get a shop to weld up proper exhaust pipes since right now it just ends in the middle of the car.
  • Change all fluids (oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid). Coolant and brake fluid are new since I replaced them before driving the car much.
  • Install a short shifter to clean up the super sloppy shifting. I know this could be considered a mod rather than a fix, but given how sloppy the shifter is, it'll be a good fix too. I'm looking at the Steeda Tri-Ax for that.
  • Fix a few loose/broken interior panels. Rubber cement + crazy glue should make this relatively easy.
  • Adjust convertible top— it doesn't quite close all the way on the driver's side, I have to pull it a bit to get it to snap into place and it still doesn't seal fully.
  • Replace all taillight bulbs. While all the light bulbs light up, they're pretty intermittent and don't always light up for turn signal use, leading me to think that somebody put the wrong bulb types in.

Once I get those repairs out of the way I'll start doing the fun go-fast mods.
 

max_Man4945

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ive always like the 96 honeycomb grill but it looks like this car has some potential...are you going to put the side skirts back on?
 
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DannyZ

DannyZ

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ive always like the 96 honeycomb grill but it looks like this car has some potential...are you going to put the side skirts back on?

Yep, I'm going to take a look at the mounting hardware and see if I can reuse any of it, otherwise I'm going to order some new clips. The side skirts came off when my friend went off-roading with it on a dry lake bed.

In the meantime I've been replacing some wheel studs... the cheap $20 eBay spacers that my friend bought decided to break. I'm really thankful that I made it from LA to Phoenix without them breaking. I noticed a loud squeaking noise when getting gas the other day, and I didn't think much of it, reasoning that it was a bad wheel bearing or something. Then I saw the rear left wheel was sitting pretty crooked so I checked it out and saw that it was super loose. I limped the car home slowly and once I got home I took off the wheel and a broken stud + nut fell out.

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That was the stud from the spacer, so I removed the spacer and found that it also broke one of the car's studs too:

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I figured out why the spacer had issues, aside from it being cheap garbage— it wasn't hub centric so it probably allowed additional vibrations that ended up loosening all the lug nuts and let everything wobble around at 80+ mph on the trip to and from LA. So the next spacers I buy will be proper name-brand, hub-centric spacers, because I really did like the way the inch-wide spacers made the rear end look.

The other day I went and bought a bunch of studs and extra lug nuts (for some reason all of the wheels only had 4 lug nuts). Super cheap at Autozone so that was pretty rad (I'm used to $$$$ for BMW parts).

Got the rear caliper and rotor off so I could get better access to the studs:

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After a bunch of PB Blaster, drilling, and swearing, I finally got that troublesome stud out:

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The new stud had some clearance issues because of the ABS/speed sensor gear, so I used an angle grinder on the new stud to create some more clearance. That worked like a charm and the new stud slipped right in with no issues. Much easier than removing the whole axle to create the necessary clearance otherwise.

Now the other issue I ran into is totally my fault— when removing the parking brake cable, I foolishly removed that circular spring, so that's where I'm at now, trying to reinstall the damn spring. I spent like an hour trying to wrangle that spring with vice grips and pliers, but at 1am I still had no luck so I called it a night. I did some reading today and it seems like people have had luck with using a vice and strong zip ties— I have both so I'm going to try that tonight. Wish me luck!
 

PinkieT

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Sounds like a heck of a project! I sold my 70 Road Runner and bought a 98 GT. Parts (both new and used) are plentiful and cheap. The cars are relatively easy to work on and fun to drive.
 
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DannyZ

DannyZ

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Sounds like a heck of a project! I sold my 70 Road Runner and bought a 98 GT. Parts (both new and used) are plentiful and cheap. The cars are relatively easy to work on and fun to drive.

Yeah, it definitely needs a bit of work but I've been hammering away at all the little problems bit by bit. Parts are definitely cheap which I love, and they're super easy to find at any Autozone; as opposed to BMW parts where nobody carries them locally.

Last night my friend and I were able wrangle that darn parking brake spring back onto the caliper. Now all of the wheels have the correct amount of studs and nuts which definitely makes me feel more confident about driving this car. After everything was put back together, we took it for a test drive and drove it like our pants were on fire. It was pretty awesome— burnouts happened.

After the test drive we noticed that the brakes were still feeling a bit weak, so we decided to bleed the brake system properly, starting from the right rear caliper and moving forward. There was a lot of air in the system, especially in the rear, so it was good to get it all out. The front caliper bleeders were rounded off and stuck in place, so we had to use vice grips and all sorts of non-recommended ways to remove them, breaking them in the process. Oh well. They were rusty and old anyways, so we drove over to Autozone real quick and got a new set of bleeders for $2 or so. With the new bleeders on, we were able to bleed all four corners properly with fresh fluid all around. The brake pedal feels very good now, and I feel a lot more confident driving this car. I can't believe I took a 400 mile road trip with so much air in the lines, I guess I'm lucky that I didn't need to panic brake at any point in the trip.
 

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