So the car is still detonating. It's done this the whole time I've owned it. It's got new o2's iac tps dizzy coil ECT and balancer. On the balancer it's dialed at 10. The only way to stop detonation is with an octane boost but I don't think I like the idea of my combustion chamber looking like cheetos. I can't figure it out. Just for grins I hooked it up to a snap on brick and pulled the spout connector and according to the scanner at idle it was at 20 -28 degrees of timing. That can't be correct can it?
Detonation... Still.
- Thread starter Insayne
- Start date
Several of my 94-95s have detonated despite significant efforts to stop it. This is especially true because we in Phoenix have the crappiest 91 octane oxygenated fuel ever, and surface temperatures in the summertime exceed 130 degrees.
I *almost* eliminated it by setting timing at 6 degrees initial, and installing one step colder plugs. It sucks, and it lost power because of the lost timing, but at least it wasn't detonating anymore.
Paul.
I *almost* eliminated it by setting timing at 6 degrees initial, and installing one step colder plugs. It sucks, and it lost power because of the lost timing, but at least it wasn't detonating anymore.
Paul.
Matt94GT
Post Whore
When you take out your spout and put it back in do you notice it? Maybe your balancer is on its way out?
Timing, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition control module, Hall effects sensor, fuel filter...how are they?
Local guy had this issue all of the above were done, and his balancer were good, turned out to be bad injectors.
Timing, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition control module, Hall effects sensor, fuel filter...how are they?
Local guy had this issue all of the above were done, and his balancer were good, turned out to be bad injectors.
It's got about 9k on the plugs good wires cap and rotor. The dizzy is new and I haven't had the module tested. Fuel filter is about as old as the plugs. The detonating was there before the balancer. Maybe the balancer is off. I'll have to manually mark it with tdc. I also didn't swap the spout in and out to see what difference the spout did. I'll check the balancer then see if it changes. Paul I can see it in AZ but shell detonate in high 30 degree weather too. Frustrating.
Yeah just a few more hours in this hell hole and I can check the balancer. Paul I power timed the car once by bringing a dist wrench and railing on it and when it pinged I'd pull over and back the distributor off a bit. Rinse and repeat until the detonation was gone. I ended up with a gutless wonder and when I got home to check initial timing I ended up with 3 degrees initial. That's no bueno.
no progress really. Checked the dampener. Its correct. Hooked it up to the modis and timing at idle is 20-32 with or without the spout. Looks like its time for plugs though. So tomorrow i guess i go to a autolite 24 and hope its enough of a difference. I can always bump timing to compensate for the colder plug. This is lame.Insayne said:
Having the same timing with the spout out isn't/shouldn't be possible. Something else is at play here. With the spout pulled the timing will be fixed and should be in the 10-12* range. Timing with the spout in at 2500 rpm should be 34*. Are you reading from the correct spot on the timing marker? And is the timing light set at an advance setting?
Take the spout connecter out...use a timing light to check it should be 10-12 this is just the base timing....when u put the spout back in the computer takes over the timing curve and does what ever it feels the car wants..mine I got 14 base timing and as soon as I plug the spout in it jumps to about 22 and this is at idle and peaks at 35 or so when I rev it up.. I don't know why it does this but I think it has something to do with the halls effect devise or the fact my car is untuned and runs really rich....btw this is a hi comp 306 lil over 10.1 and it's never detonates
On a light it's dead on 10. I haven't checked it on a light with the spout in. I've figured out why a scanner reads the same spout in or out. It's because it's in line before the spout so it's just simply reading where the computer spark table is. The computer doesn't see the spout in or out as the spout is just a jumper to allow what the computer table is at to hit the ignition.
Yep... If the spout is in the computer controls all timing..... Check it with the spout in once and see where it is could be to much and cause the det.... Another thing u can try is leaving the spout out set the base timing high and take it for a ride it will be slow cause it won't have any spark advance but it shouldn't det cause the timing will stay where ever u put it
Raffaelli
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I know a guy who had a gutless 5.0. Like h/c/i coupe with 4.10s and slicks that couldnt turn a mid 15. Hellacious problem to have after spending alot of money...
But to my point.
He ended up finding the distributor gear, (cant remember if a stocker or MSD), had enough wear the timing would float 20-30 degrees. I know you said you had a new dizzy. But how about popping off the cap and checking the free play in the rotor/shaft. Should be nill, right?
Just an idea man :thumbsup:
But to my point.
He ended up finding the distributor gear, (cant remember if a stocker or MSD), had enough wear the timing would float 20-30 degrees. I know you said you had a new dizzy. But how about popping off the cap and checking the free play in the rotor/shaft. Should be nill, right?
Just an idea man :thumbsup:
I was having the exact same problem with my car for almost 10 months... checked everything from egr to fuel pump. Turned out to be the sensor inside the distributor(hall effect/ ignition pick-up). Maybe find a dizzy from an autowrecker, shove it in and go for a drive to see if it helps.
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