Drive/Reverse Stalling Issue.

[the5.ohh]

Okay heres the problem. Got my car close to a year now, I remember about a month after i bought it I started the car, put it in drive and it bogged down and shut off. Fast forward a few months, does it occasionally but always in reverse and drive. Fast forward to now, it stopped for awhile after my mechanic bumped up the idle. But now it did it again today, twice in a row. This happens probably weekly and there's no warning signs, if it happens it just happens. The car has fresh plugs, wires, fuel filter, oil filter, fresh oil done like 2 months ago, iac is new. [MENTION=16906]KillNThrill24[/MENTION] said to check my fuel press reg, which I will. What else should i look for? Its starting to piss me off honestly because I've spent $$ on things to try and fix it and have other people try to fix it, still the same. Thoughts?

 

[Ferocious]

Back when my car was stalling, I did the following

- cleaned MAF sensor
- cleaned throttle body
- tested TPS sensor
- adjusted idle set screw
- replaced IAC
- tested injectors
- tested fuel pressure regulator
- new fuel filter
- new fuel pump

Turns out it was a combination of a bad coolant sensor causing the car to run in safe mode as well as a bad injector and the idle screw being chewed up.

In the end at least I know all the parts I changed now work and some are even upgrades. Everything cost me under $125.
Start with stuff you can do for free such as testing voltage, checking for vacuum leaks, etc etc.

 

[the5.ohh]

Back when my car was stalling, I did the following

- cleaned MAF sensor
- cleaned throttle body
- tested TPS sensor
- adjusted idle set screw
- replaced IAC
- tested injectors
- tested fuel pressure regulator
- new fuel filter
- new fuel pump

Turns out it was a combination of a bad coolant sensor causing the car to run in safe mode as well as a bad injector and the idle screw being chewed up.

In the end at least I know all the parts I changed now work and some are even upgrades. Everything cost me under $125.
Start with stuff you can do for free such as testing voltage, checking for vacuum leaks, etc etc.

- cleaned MAF sensor-- i'll have to check that out
- cleaned throttle body-- throttlebodys clean, just had my intake apart last week
- tested TPS sensor-- this was just adjusted last friday
- adjusted idle set screw-- adjusted 3 times over the past 4-5 months
- replaced IAC-- done
- tested injectors-- other injectors were fine, one was leaking had that replaced
- tested fuel pressure regulator-- need to check
- new fuel filter-- new fuel filter was put on last october
- new fuel pump-- anyway to check if the fuel pump is bad?

 

[DeepList]

anyway to check if the fuel pump is bad?

Check the fuel pressure and make sure it's what it should be.

 

[Ferocious]

- tested TPS sensor-- this was just adjusted last friday
- new fuel pump-- anyway to check if the fuel pump is bad?

Is the TPS sensor adjusted correctly? Did you adjust it yourself? It believe it should read at a little under 1 volt.
However, I don't think that would be causing the car to stall. It would be more of an idle issue... which i'm assuming your idle is fine since you didn't mention it in your post.

As far as the fuel pump, when you turn the car on (not the engine), you should be able to hear it prime. If it's a very high pitch or no sound at all, there may be something up with it.
You'll want to test the fuel pressure with car on, engine off and then once more with the engine on. Post up the readings and we can go from there.

Don't go and blow all your money on replacing parts like I did. Take your time to track down the issue. I learned the hard way.

 

[the5.ohh]

Check the fuel pressure and make sure it's what it should be.

Thanks for the tip

Is the TPS sensor adjusted correctly? Did you adjust it yourself? It believe it should read at a little under 1 volt.
However, I don't think that would be causing the car to stall. It would be more of an idle issue... which i'm assuming your idle is fine since you didn't mention it in your post.

As far as the fuel pump, when you turn the car on (not the engine), you should be able to hear it prime. If it's a very high pitch or no sound at all, there may be something up with it.
You'll want to test the fuel pressure with car on, engine off and then once more with the engine on. Post up the readings and we can go from there.

Don't go and blow all your money on replacing parts like I did. Take your time to track down the issue. I learned the hard way.

TPS was adjusted at the trans shop when I brought it. Yes the idle is fine. I do hear the fuel pump turn on, if I turn it to accessory first to start the fuel pump then start the car. Its not loud but you can definitely hear it prime. I'll see if I can check this stuff out friday, have school all day and night tomorrow. Believe me man, last thing I wanna do is blow more $$ on unnecessary things, I learned the hard way with my exhaust. Should've just done it once from the getco and left it alone. I appreciate the help man, thanks! Did yours stall in reverse and drive? Does it matter that it does this after the car was already running? I drove from school to the gas station, 3-4 miles, turned it off for literally 2 mins and then it stalled again once i put it in drive. Only does this when its warm, never when the car is cold.

 

[Ferocious]

TPS was adjusted at the trans shop when I brought it. Yes the idle is fine. I do hear the fuel pump turn on, if I turn it to accessory first to start the fuel pump then start the car. Its not loud but you can definitely hear it prime. I'll see if I can check this stuff out friday, have school all day and night tomorrow. Believe me man, last thing I wanna do is blow more $$ on unnecessary things, I learned the hard way with my exhaust. Should've just done it once from the getco and left it alone. I appreciate the help man, thanks! Did yours stall in reverse and drive? Does it matter that it does this after the car was already running? I drove from school to the gas station, 3-4 miles, turned it off for literally 2 mins and then it stalled again once i put it in drive. Only does this when its warm, never when the car is cold.

It never happened to me in reverse, only in drive. And it would also only happen when the car was warm. I would drive it to class and when it came time to go home, it would stall upon startup and sometimes when I came to a stop while in drive. The reason it's probably not happening on a cold start is because the car requires the motor to work more efficiently in order to get to operating temp. If the engine is working harder, there is less of a chance that it will stall since fluid are pumping everywhere quickly and your idle is higher. However when it's warm, your engine doesn't feel the need to push itself as hard.

 

[the5.ohh]

It never happened to me in reverse, only in drive. And it would also only happen when the car was warm. I would drive it to class and when it came time to go home, it would stall upon startup and sometimes when I came to a stop while in drive. The reason it's probably not happening on a cold start is because the car requires the motor to work more efficiently in order to get to operating temp. If the engine is working harder, there is less of a chance that it will stall since fluid are pumping everywhere quickly and your idle is higher. However when it's warm, your engine doesn't feel the need to push itself as hard.

Ah gotcha.. Mine does it in reverse and drive, never did it coming to a stop. The car can be off for 5 mins or 30 mins, it'll still do it lol. Thanks for the info, I'll see what i figure out with it

 

[99GreenStang]

Since you say it only does it when its warm I would looking at the coolant system sensors if it were me .

 

[CC'S95GT]

It could also be the PIP inside of the dizzy.

Have you done a "base idle reset"? It's a semi lengthy and specific way to set the idle on the car.

 

[the5.ohh]

[MENTION=10547]CC'S95GT[/MENTION] - i don't know to be honest, my mechanic might of when he bumped up the idle. Not sure

 

[CC'S95GT]

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.html

 

[the5.ohh]

Went to my mechanic than my guy who strictly works on mustangs. They're all leaning towards the converter going bad which is what my mechanic said originally when it first happened.. Gonna check the fuel pumps pressure tomorrow and see what happens. Torque converter and installs gonna run $500, couple bucks more i could get a nice stick setup...

 

[RichV]

Check and make sure the timing is at 10* as well.

I honestly would not trust that a shop does/checks everything they tell you. Did you ask them how they adjusted the TPS? Because the TPS is technically not adjustable.

 

[the5.ohh]

Check and make sure the timing is at 10* as well.

I honestly would not trust that a shop does/checks everything they tell you. Did you ask them how they adjusted the TPS? Because the TPS is technically not adjustable.

I have my regular mechanic, he's trustworthy no issues there. The other guy only works on mustangs, been building them since he was 15. The shop that adjustable the tps or trans range sensor w/e it is is a legitimate transmission shop. The idle was bumped up twice, that helped but it still happens now. The fuel pump's pressure is going to be checked tomorrow and I will be there to watch.

 

[Ferocious]

The shop that adjustable the tps or trans range sensor w/e it is is a legitimate transmission shop.

Transmission shop to check TPS...?

TPS should be set at .75-.97 volts. Did the shop actually tell you what they set it as? Or did they just tell you they "adjusted it"?

Anyways, make sure to post up the fuel pressure readings when you get them and we'll go from there.
I highly doubt your transmission is the issue since your car has such low milage. My converter still works fine and i have double your milage.

 

[the5.ohh]

Transmission shop to check TPS...?

TPS should be set at .75-.97 volts. Did the shop actually tell you what they set it as? Or did they just tell you they "adjusted it"?

Anyways, make sure to post up the fuel pressure readings when you get them and we'll go from there.
I highly doubt your transmission is the issue since your car has such low milage. My converter still works fine and i have double your milage.

I meant the trans range sensor, the thing that tells the trans what gear the shifters in. Maybe you mean something else I'm not sure. The trans isn't the issue, they think the tq converter might be. The fuel pump pressure is gonna be checked tomorrow, so maybe I just need a new fuel pump. I know i got low mileage but i have no clue how long my car sat being unused before I got it, so you never know honestly.

 

[Ferocious]

The trans isn't the issue, they think the tq converter might be.

The torque converter is inside the transmission.

 

[the5.ohh]

The torque converter is inside the transmission.

I know. I meant the transmission itself besides the tq converter