Engine Cuts Out While Driving MAF Problem???

Stable 1

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It could be that you are losing fire the the plugs? Are the wires in good shape? An old school check is to try this at night, have the motor running and spay a light mist of water around all of the plug wires. If there is a bad spot you will see it arc and the motor will miss.
 

SvtBlack95

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just throwing this out there but i have noticed you havent checked the coil maybe thats somethign you might want to look into
 

95SVTCobraVA

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Sidewinder said:
I changed the Stator and it did make the car run much better. It has a lot better power in the top end then it did before but it did not fix my original problem. I am thinking about the IAC now. I have one on the shelf from a 90 GT but it looks different. Does anyone know if it will work for testing? A new IAC looks to be close to $100 and I don't want to change this one unless it is going to solve my main problem. Any suggestions? :comando:

Sorry the stator didn't fix your problem. Hope you find out the problem soon :thumb: I hate electrical problems :rant:
 

ryclef331

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You didn't mention if you car was cammed or not or any other mods really. Bucking and surging at cruise but smooth driving under part throttle acceleration usually denotes a tune issue...i.e. you car is loading up or starving for fuel at part throttle.
 

pepperoni1979

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I am not sure if this was mentioned, but try replacing the TFI Remote Mount Module. I just posted the same reply to another thread, but Accel makes a replacement TFI module for about $50. My father's 95 GT used to have issues with shutting off randomly or briefly while driving. The issue occured after his A/C fried on the freeway. The TFI replacement module solved everything.

http://accel-ignition.com/ProductDe...e=Select+Aspiration&brandName=ACCEL&BrandId=3

I hope that helps.

-Dan
 

Hoss2764

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did any one figure out the problem to his car , mine is doing the same thing and we cant figure it out. its a 94 gt 5 spd it will some time go two or three days with out doing it then will cut out everyday for a while :dunno:
 
C

cobra30294

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I just fixed this problem on my 95 GT (5 speed). I would be driving the car and it would just die or stall and come back on because the car is still in gear. (like when you push start a car). And then the check engine light would come on. A mechanic pulled the codes and it was the MAS. I just replaced it and the car runs great now.
 

stang4u2nv

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Man just do what i did, go to your local yard pick and pull and get a mass air flow sensor out of a old 89,90,91 lincoln or grand marquis or crown victoria they all look the same as your mustang MAF, then go to advance auto parts or auto zone and purchase the new maf sensor for your car, they will ask you for a core and of course you will turn in the sensor you got from the junkyard. now go to your car and replace the maf with new one you bought at the parts store if it fixes the problem perfect and if it doesn't then go back to the parts store and tell them that it doesn't work in your car or something or that it is defective and that you want your money back, make sure you have a receipt of course and get your money back. By the way my buddy just bought a remanufactured maf dor his 95 gt and it was like 75 bucks and the car runs like a new car now. Before it would stall, run rich and wouldn't rev past 3500 rpms. go get a new mass air man...
 

fastgtfairlane

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Sidewinder said:
Update. I went ahead and changed the TPS even though it tested good hoping for a dead spot. No luck. I cleaned the Salt & Pepper connectors. They felt tight but I took them apart and cleaned them out. No change. I pulled the codes doing the KOEO test. I got 6 codes: 637,654,621,622,652,624. All of these are auto Trans codes, which is no surprise as I have converted from AOD to T5 and have not changed computers. I don't think any of these codes explain my problem and I don't think that it is the computer telling the Trans to shift, as it does not happen with any kind of pattern. For example I would think that if it was the computer trying to tell the trans to shift then I should be able to get it to happen the same during multiple WOT runs. This does not happen. I also removed the vacuum from the EGR (I capped it so no leak) with no change. Could this be O2 sensors even though there are no O2 codes? I am running out of ideas? I have changed all of the ignition parts including the wires and I also did the "Induction fire TSB" and rerouted the plug wires so that none of them can touch each other.

you need to put a t4mo computer in your car. that is the 5spd computer. your car is having driveability problems due to the computer telling the auto to shift but there is no auto. i had an aode in my car when i got it and did the t-5 swap. i did a lot of research on that swap and found that the car would have driveablity problems including the exact symtoms you have with your car. dont throw anymore parts at it that will not fix the problem. if you buy anymore parts, try the 5spd computer first. i guarantee it will fix your problems.
 

tommybunz

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t4mo computer im not asking you im telling you. i had the same problem the only thing is i had a auto ecu but i did not convert to stick i converted from v6 to v8. my car did the same thing i changed everything but when i changed the ecu it worked perfect. trust me im not telling you wrong get on off ebay like me $40.
 

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