Engine misfire? *UPDATE Oct 31st 24*

07GtS197

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If you swap the ecu yourself you’ll need the ecu, cluster and key/cylinder from the donor car. Otherwise you will have to get your keys programmed to the ecu.

It sounds like the shops you talked to either don’t want your business or don’t know what they’re doing.
 
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ThatSNninety5

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Coming back to this thread in hopes of maybe solving this ever lasting problem, as I said previously the shop said it was my PCM not communicating with my CKP. Like you guys gave said previously check fuel pressure etc all is good, I checked all the grounds. Everything seems to be good, now I got a bluetooth code reader and did a live test, while driving the RPMS read like they’re supposed to, the long and short term fuel trim reads how its supposed to, my ignition timing reads at about an average of 302ish. I havent replaced the PCM because I would like to keep the tunes to my PCM. The flash tuner I had the screen was broken and it was the SCT X3 which SCT doesn’t support anymore and the guy who would have the email of the tunes is unfortunately dead now. Im trying to really avoid replacing this PCM. The exact code Im getting “P0320” but this time its saying “PIP Circuit Failure” instead of “Igntion etc etc etc..” My coil wires are in tact and my ignition coils got replaced which helped it for a little bit. And like I said previously both the CPS and CKS have been replaced. What else could this be and again like I said previously is there anything from me doing my heater core that could have caused this?
 

96blak54

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Well .....just to say out loud.....I have a very low milage original 96 Gt engine harness. I dont remember where or how I acquired it, but I do remember always wanting a newer/nicer/better condition than my engine harness. And I took that nice harness and pinned it out checking continuity between plugs and connectors only to discover a few wires didnt conduct between pins. The pins were there, the wire is between them, and no continuity. No visible damage. Harness appears perfect. Almost from a new car cause how clean it is.

I suspect purchasing the harness, probably from an individual with spare parts with no honest history info and I was the victim.

With all that said, a bad factory harness must have been that guys issue(or someones issue) and I blindly bought the harness. I dont remember which pin locations were bad, but I remember spending time figuring what the pin locations purpose was and ultimately deciding to just scrap the harness do to....to many redflags.

Try to test continuity between pins.
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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Well .....just to say out loud.....I have a very low milage original 96 Gt engine harness. I dont remember where or how I acquired it, but I do remember always wanting a newer/nicer/better condition than my engine harness. And I took that nice harness and pinned it out checking continuity between plugs and connectors only to discover a few wires didnt conduct between pins. The pins were there, the wire is between them, and no continuity. No visible damage. Harness appears perfect. Almost from a new car cause how clean it is.

I suspect purchasing the harness, probably from an individual with spare parts with no honest history info and I was the victim.

With all that said, a bad factory harness must have been that guys issue(or someones issue) and I blindly bought the harness. I dont remember which pin locations were bad, but I remember spending time figuring what the pin locations purpose was and ultimately deciding to just scrap the harness do to....to many redflags.

Try to test continuity between pins.
I apologize but what does it mean to test the pins? What are the pins and how exactly what would i test them?
 

96blak54

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you will take a multi meter, set on the continuity setting. Take one test lead probe touching a pin at this end of the harness. The other test lead probe to its matching other end.

Information of pin locations and pin location other end purpose can be found in a good automotive information database or a really good auto repair book. The internet is also a big help.

Wire color of each pin is specific. An orange black wire (OR/BK) will be an orange wire with black stripe. A black orange wire (BK/OR) will be a black wire with orange stripe. BL/PK = blue/pink stripe, PK/BL= pink/blue stripe.....and so on with the rainbow of colors. I will warn, using the wire colors to identify a wire at each end gets tricky do to slight color changes within 5ft of wire length. A pink wire will look brown. A brown wire will become reddish.

Essentially you are confirming that the pin tips and wire associated between pins have connections and no breakage. (kinda makes sense...right?)

If you have moved or made any movement of the harness to the ecu, you may want to start there 1st.

Be sure to remove battery positive terminal before digging into harness work.

Screenshot 2024-10-31 131459.png
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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you will take a multi meter, set on the continuity setting. Take one test lead probe touching a pin at this end of the harness. The other test lead probe to its matching other end.

Information of pin locations and pin location other end purpose can be found in a good automotive information database or a really good auto repair book. The internet is also a big help.

Wire color of each pin is specific. An orange black wire (OR/BK) will be an orange wire with black stripe. A black orange wire (BK/OR) will be a black wire with orange stripe. BL/PK = blue/pink stripe, PK/BL= pink/blue stripe.....and so on with the rainbow of colors. I will warn, using the wire colors to identify a wire at each end gets tricky do to slight color changes within 5ft of wire length. A pink wire will look brown. A brown wire will become reddish.

Essentially you are confirming that the pin tips and wire associated between pins have connections and no breakage. (kinda makes sense...right?)

If you have moved or made any movement of the harness to the ecu, you may want to start there 1st.

Be sure to remove battery positive terminal before digging into harness work.

View attachment 38690
Just so im understanding this correctly, for example if my CKP wire is black with an orange stripe, i will unplug the ecu and find the matching wire, put one probe from the multi meter on the ecu part and one on the pin plugging into the actual sensor? Now once i do that what will i need to look for on the meter to determine it is still indeed intact and working essentially ruling out this issue?
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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Just another quick little thing with my live test, while idle in park and my foot on the gas bringing it up to 1500-2000RPM, is it normal for my short and long term fuel trim to be so different?IMG_0677.png
 

96blak54

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What i explained scenario is ...engine harness removed and laying on a table.....away from the car. You will test continuity of each pin location to its relative other end. Its possible to reference wire color from one end to the other, but not idea. Colors of the wire shift shades, makes it difficult to tract. Best to find literature diagram of pin locations from the net, database type program or auto repair manual. Ensuring your harness is not the culprip to your specific gremlin is a good place to start.

Swapping the computer would also be a good place to start
 

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