FAQ's about our sn95 5L's

wiplash

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Q: What is a "GTS" model?
A: GTS is to 1995 as LX 5.0 is to 1987-93. The GTS model was a very limited production 1995 (1996 also) Mustang that was "stripped". The package was called 248A. In that package, you deleted all of the following: Power windows, power door locks, rear wing, foglights, GT seats. You were offered ONLY 16" waffle start wheels. As backwards as it sounds, a GTS Mustang could be ordered WITH power options, but that would sort of defeat the prupose.

Q: What was "special" about the 1995 Cobra R model?
A: The Cobra R was offered for sale to individuals with a "competition license". They all had the same look........bright White exterior, Saddle interior (V6 front seats, rear seat delete), radio delete, push down locks, roll down windows, fuel cell and most importantly, a fuel injected 351W. One last thing.........those wheels that everyone puts on their Mustangs? They originated on THIS car.

Q: I heard the electronics on the 94-95 are very touchy. Can I fix it?
A: The electronics ARE indeed very touchy. The big problem area is aftermarket camshafts. It's a common problem.......you put a nice, new, more aggressive cam in your '94-'95, and the car begins to surge, stall and buck. There are several ways around this. The easiest one I found so far is the Steeda #19 cam. This cam was made with the '94-'95 EEC in mind. They're not too mild, not too wild, but they allow the car to remain stable. The second way would be to purchase a Pro-M performance improvement harness (PIH). This little device allows you to use 89-93 processors (they adapt better to cams and such). The third way would be to purchase an EEC-tuner. Now........if you decide you don't want to try any of these options, there is ONE little fix. Think of it as a band aid. After the cam install, with your car RUNNING, unplug your IAC. Adjust your throttle stop screw enough to keep the car idling where you'd like it to. Plug the IAC back in, turn the car off, and disconnect the battery for a period of 5-10 minutes. Reconnect the battery (this will "flash" the computer), and when you start the car, it *may* be fooled into "thinking" that's where it should idle.

Q: How much was a new GT in 1994 or 1995?
A: Coupes were in the $20,000 range. Convertibles were a few thousand dollars more. You can view a window sticker here to see what the average GT cost new ~~> http://www.badassmustangs.com/gallery/albu...18/normal_4.jpg

Q: Do 1994/95 Mustangs have any weak points?
A: As with the other 5.0 Mustangs, the 94-95s suffered from weak transmissions. They also had problems with the torque box area, but it wasn't nearly as pronounced as it was in the 87-93 models. The axles were wider than that of the Fox Mustangs, which made them even more prone to breakage. They're notorious for blowing out foglamp bulbs due to a poor design that permitted water to enter the housings.

Q: I heard that Fox Mustangs are more powerful. True?
A: Contrary to popular belief, NO! The 94/95 Mustangs were heavier, but bear in mind that they were factory equipped with more efficient cooling systems (electric fan and better water pump), mandrel bent headers (not crimped as bad as a Fox), shorter runner intake manifolds, bigger mass air sensor, better charging systems, and the *same* amount of HP as a 1993 Fox. Out of the box, the SN95 Mustangs are easily capable of mid 14 second times with a computer that pulls timing.

Q: Can I get a "skinny/wide" tire combo to fit my 1994 GT?

A: Yes, you can. For the typical 15x8/15x4 combo, you'll need 5.5" backspacing on the rear wheel, and 2.25" on the fronts. You'll need to grind a small amount of metal away from the caliper bracket, and use a 7/16" spacer to clear the front brakes.

Q: How much transmission fluid does my T5 hold, and what type?
A: It'll hold close to 3 quarts (around 2 and 3/4 quarts). Be sure to use a non-synthetic ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Do *not* use "type F"!

Q: What components can I use from a Fox body on my 94/95?

A: You're limited to things like cylinder heads, camshafts, upper/lower control arms, and coil springs. In order to use a Fox style intake (e.g. 1993 Cobra), changes have to be made to your throttle cable, EGR, and the throttle body, amongst other things.

Q: I want 1996 taillights. I heard you have to buy parts to make the lights work.
A: Wrong! I can't tell you how many times I've heard it, and it's a crock. I'm currently running '96 taillights in my '95, and I did NOT have to buy a different harness. Simply use the one you have, and you'll be fine. And yes, my taillights are fully operational.

Q: Will anything other than a Mustang airbag fit the driver's side?

A: Yes, there are alternatives. Cars such as the Escort and Thunderbird will directly bolt in place of the factory airbag. The Escort airbag has only a Ford emblem embossed, so it doesn't look too bad. However, they're ALL black/greyish in color.
 

QIKGTS

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Good info... I forgot all about the comp license on the Cobra R.

However, for those who must know.... The GTS package was only called the GTS for 94-95. For 96, the package was officially known as PEP (Preferred Equipment Package) 248A. Same deal, just a different name...
 

Lightning Struck

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QIKGTS said:
Good info... I forgot all about the comp license on the Cobra R.

However, for those who must know.... The GTS package was only called the GTS for 94-95. For 96, the package was officially known as PEP (Preferred Equipment Package) 248A. Same deal, just a different name...

I dont remember ever knowing about it.................dumb me :lame:
 

QIKGTS

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I forgive ya'. After all, you were what, like 12 years old in 96? (I thought I read in another post you were in your early 20's, if not sorry about that, I'm just kidding around) How could you know? It's just another useless fact that the bong hits and hangovers left behind.
 

Lightning Struck

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QIKGTS said:
I forgive ya'. After all, you were what, like 12 years old in 96? (I thought I read in another post you were in your early 20's, if not sorry about that, I'm just kidding around) How could you know? It's just another useless fact that the bong hits and hangovers left behind.

Thank you for makeing me feel a little younger :thumb: however im in my late 20's..................28 to be exact, oh well it was fun while it lasted. :'(
 

chickendreamer

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Regarding statement number 3. The biggest problem is most cams are ground to have a lobe seperation less than 112 degrees which gives the surging/bucking/etc problems with the 94-95 mustangs. If you install a cam with a 114-116 degree lobe seperation, you shouldn't have much idle issues. This is why the ford motorsport E-303 cam has so many problems in the 94-95 mustangs. If you do pick a cam, get one with a 114-116 lobe seperation and you'll have a good idle. Probably not as good as stock, but much better than an E-303 Cam for example.

It's not having a "bigger cam" thats the problems. For example I installed a Comp Cams nitrous cam (grind number NX274HR) which has a duration of 224/236, a lift of .555/.570 but the lobe seperation was 114 degrees. This cam has a rough idle but i have ZERO surging or bucking, where when I had the ford motorsport E-303 camshaft the car often surged, bucked and died before I got a custom tune. The specs on the E-303 camshaft are 220/220 duration, 0.498/0.498 lift and a 110 degree lobe seperation. As you can see the E-303 camshaft is much smaller in both lift and duration but has the 110 degree lobe seperation.
 

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