First timer, few ???s

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

Howdy, as some may know, I'm planning to run this car open track.

Figured it was time to do something new.

Now my questions are rather vague...But just trying to get a feel for a few details.

the track isn't very official. I've seen some trucks/jeeps on the track with cars. if that's any indication.

So I'm thinking to start slowly. Assuming I even enjoy it..
So not going insane with suspension or other things.

So I suppose first question.
pointers for a good entry level suspension setup?
I was looking at eibach pro system.
it's generally well reviewed.
not too low, and I've ran their sway bars before with resounding success.

Granted its no MM setup.
But compared to18-19 year old stock...

Idea two was some orange Konis with around 1-1.5 drop.
as well as LCAs, possibly UCA, or at least new bushings.
I'm planning MM weld in SFC, possibly a STB, unless someone talks me out of it.

Also trying to drop down to 3100 or less curb weight.

Question 2
This is more hypothetical...
a bolt on 5.4 swap.
In my head the torque would make plenty of low and mid range to get me out of holes and definitely good on straights.

If not, I've already got the 4.6 PI swapped so I'll go 4.10s.

Sorry if I'm all over the place. But I'm new to the idea. I've driven the autobahn, hockenheim ring, and the Nuremberg(wrong spelling?) when stationed overseas and kind of grew to like the twisties.
We have a track a few hours away in NM, so I'm wanting to get a track car built.

Granted tires and experience are key.
I am just poking around the other areas.

Open to suggestions and advice!!

School me!

Frank.JD.Perez · Dec 21, 2016

Open track? Id say dont go higher than 373s and you probably want 355s but thats just me.

*ahem*

*performing dark ritual*

*calling upon*
[MENTION=9209]ReplicaR[/MENTION]
[MENTION=18765]wmfateam[/MENTION]
[MENTION=15115]hotmustang95[/MENTION]
[MENTION=15705]mcglsr2[/MENTION]

wmfateam · Dec 21, 2016

First question that I need to know= Is this a street/track or Track only car?

Engine- Stick with Bolt on PI swap. Maybe some cams, but power should be added after brakes, driver mod, suspension and tires (I think that is in order as well).
Suspension- I started on blown stock shocks and struts Autocrossing so I would agree that most things are going to be better than stock. Personally I would go with an MM Starter Box. I have never used Eibach shocks/struts, but I love their springs. But the price of the Eibach kit is very appealing. I would keep you stock sway bars as sway bars are more of a fine tuning mod than a do it first mod. I run no rear sway bar and a Steeda front bar. I replaced my control arms within my first two events as all my bushings were toast (MM lowers and stock uppers). Quad shocks were gone before I got my car so I have no input on those guys except a proper shock will negate the need for them. I still run stock front control arms but with poly bushings. I have Koni SA fronts and custom valved Bilstein rears with coilovers. And if STB means strut tower bar, I would not suggest one as I have never had one on the car and as a new(er) guy you are not going to be be able to run hard enough to either A. Feel it, or B. Need it. I would wait on that until you maybe end up going with a Kmember. A proper seat and harness will go a long way for feeling. My second favorite, maybe first, mod. Raybestos ST43 brake pads being the other possible favorite mod.
Weight- The best thing in road racing is less weight IMO. It makes tires last longer and makes it easier to corner. I have a full cage and mostly gutted weigh 3450 with me(180lbs) and a quarter tank of gas.
Is there a NASA or SCCA region near you? I run local NASA and ProAutoSports and both have programs for Driver Education, Time Trials and Door to Door racing. And you did not mention brakes. Depending on what you already have, new fluid (I run Stoptech 600 fluid from Tire Rack), pads (depends on caliper, street and track or just track), lifetime warranty rotors from the auto part store (I have exchanged my fronts 4 times this year. I went through high carbon, cryo treated, slotted, etc and found they all crack within about the same time frame) and brake cooling (I have the Kenny Brown kit). I managed to cook my cobra brakes that had Hawk HP+ the second time ever to the track.

All that being said. I am a big preacher of take it to the track and feel what needs attention first. But if I were turning my daily into a track car, my mod list, in order would be: 1-Brakes (Revolution Brake LLC 330mm kit also found on ebay) , Pad street track car Wilwood matrix pad, track only Raybestos ST-43. 2- Struts/Shocks/Camber Plates/Subframe Connectors. 3- Roll Bar/Seat/Harness. 4-Lower Control Arms(MM Road Race)/UPR Spherical Upper With Spherical diff bushing(1 arm)/Pan Hard Bar, 5-Rims/Tires (NT01) 6- K-Member and Front control arms (MM). And then depending on how much street comforts you need, remove ac, remove seats, gut hood/trunk, remove windshield wiper fluid bottle, front bash bar(FTR), etc, etc. It really becomes Pandora's box, for me at least. If I wasn't building my Coyote swap car, I would be doing all this to my daily.

But is the end, just get to the track. Brakes and struts, shocks, springs are going to be the first thing you need. So don't go running with the idea that you need everything right now. Just see if you want to keep doing this and if there is anything competition wise in your area that you might want to do later.

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

wmfateam said:
First question that I need to know= Is this a street/track or Track only car?

Engine- Stick with Bolt on PI swap. Maybe some cams, but power should be added after brakes, driver mod, suspension and tires (I think that is in order as well).
Suspension- I started on blown stock shocks and struts Autocrossing so I would agree that most things are going to be better than stock. Personally I would go with an MM Starter Box. I have never used Eibach shocks/struts, but I love their springs. But the price of the Eibach kit is very appealing. I would keep you stock sway bars as sway bars are more of a fine tuning mod than a do it first mod. I run no rear sway bar and a Steeda front bar. I replaced my control arms within my first two events as all my bushings were toast (MM lowers and stock uppers). Quad shocks were gone before I got my car so I have no input on those guys except a proper shock will negate the need for them. I still run stock front control arms but with poly bushings. I have Koni SA fronts and custom valved Bilstein rears with coilovers. And if STB means strut tower bar, I would not suggest one as I have never had one on the car and as a new(er) guy you are not going to be be able to run hard enough to either A. Feel it, or B. Need it. I would wait on that until you maybe end up going with a Kmember. A proper seat and harness will go a long way for feeling. My second favorite, maybe first, mod. Raybestos ST43 brake pads being the other possible favorite mod.
Weight- The best thing in road racing is less weight IMO. It makes tires last longer and makes it easier to corner. I have a full cage and mostly gutted weigh 3450 with me(180lbs) and a quarter tank of gas.
Is there a NASA or SCCA region near you? I run local NASA and ProAutoSports and both have programs for Driver Education, Time Trials and Door to Door racing. And you did not mention brakes. Depending on what you already have, new fluid (I run Stoptech 600 fluid from Tire Rack), pads (depends on caliper, street and track or just track), lifetime warranty rotors from the auto part store (I have exchanged my fronts 4 times this year. I went through high carbon, cryo treated, slotted, etc and found they all crack within about the same time frame) and brake cooling (I have the Kenny Brown kit). I managed to cook my cobra brakes that had Hawk HP+ the second time ever to the track.

All that being said. I am a big preacher of take it to the track and feel what needs attention first. But if I were turning my daily into a track car, my mod list, in order would be: 1-Brakes (Revolution Brake LLC 330mm kit also found on ebay) , Pad street track car Wilwood matrix pad, track only Raybestos ST-43. 2- Struts/Shocks/Camber Plates/Subframe Connectors. 3- Roll Bar/Seat/Harness. 4-Lower Control Arms(MM Road Race)/UPR Spherical Upper With Spherical diff bushing(1 arm)/Pan Hard Bar, 5-Rims/Tires (NT01) 6- K-Member and Front control arms (MM). And then depending on how much street comforts you need, remove ac, remove seats, gut hood/trunk, remove windshield wiper fluid bottle, front bash bar(FTR), etc, etc. It really becomes Pandora's box, for me at least. If I wasn't building my Coyote swap car, I would be doing all this to my daily.

But is the end, just get to the track. Brakes and struts, shocks, springs are going to be the first thing you need. So don't go running with the idea that you need everything right now. Just see if you want to keep doing this and if there is anything competition wise in your area that you might want to do later.

thanks, very informative.
this won't be a dd.
A.C. and heater already got ripped.
I'm figuring it'll be the weekend toy, as stated maybe hit the local cruises and meets.

I'm planning cobra 13s up front, SS lines possibly Dot 4.
Looking at ebc pads and vented rotors all around.

In less than two weeks....
atrocious braking, massive body roll, nose dive, squeaks,squeals, luckily it's not leaning nor does it have blocks in the rear springs as I see common around.

PI swap is done, no other mods besides tackily welded in flowmasters.
Currently an auto...with manual pedals installed, just looks for a transmission.

planning 4.10s, 75mm tb/plenum, UDPs, off road H, resonated catback, possibly an Sr CAI as it's still in the fender...my intake has cracks and the filter housing is beyond saving.

I don't plan to go bigger than 17s to try and shave a few lbs on rotating mass.

If the weather ever clears up, finish doing interior gutting.
Hunt some manual Tiburon seats, as they are supposed to be about 10lbs per.

I plan to freshen up the front. New bushings all the way around.
Thinking about new bushings for the UCA, and some LCA, spherical on the axle, poly on the body.

I keep looking at the definitive SN95 weight reduction thread, looking for things to tear out.

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

I don't plan this thing on the road for a few months.
I fixed the immediate issues, got it registered.
But no mods til that transmission is out.
Just doing little tweaks here and there.
Mostly free mods I can do til payday.

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

Your list and my plans are a bit ahead.
Most of the cars at that track are daily drivers.
My buddy runs his 01 Trans Am. And it's got KYBs from oriellys or wherever.
Many are little imports and other small cars.
Not dissing your list at all.
But not a single cage or even racing seats.
I took a few courses in Germany, learned a great deal.

I am unsure about anything sanctioned up there.
I just know they award for 1-2-3, and if my friend who wrapped his TA around a pole can land 3rd. I wanted the gold.

wmfateam · Dec 21, 2016

I race door to door with the sanctioning body NASA, it is kinda a safety required thing. It also makes the chassis very stiff. But it sounds like you might be better off getting all SR stuff or SVE.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

That's kind of why I was leaning towards Eibach...they don't just make a spring and undercut prices.
I am waiting for a response from someone who goes there often, but based on what I've seen there, its more unsanctioned, and more of a legal way for kids to play fast and furious.

I just feel at 12 mustangs...it's time to go a different route.
If the bug bites, indeed I'll step the game up, for now it's this or back to drag racing.
Being at 7100 Air density on a typical summer day...running 15-16s and fighting tooth and nail to keep up with 11-16 5.0s at mid-high 13s...
I just did that with my 06..

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

I do appreciate you taking the time to talk with me, seeing you're clearly much more versed in this sport than I.

I may grab MMs sport package anyway.
a little pricey, but it addresses many day to day issues anyway. It'd definitely give me a good leg up considering the chassis.

Again, I'm re reading your initial, and it's a lot to take in at once. But very very grateful for your input!!

wmfateam · Dec 21, 2016

98DesertGT said:
I do appreciate you taking the time to talk with me, seeing you're clearly much more versed in this sport than I.

I may grab MMs sport package anyway.
a little pricey, but it addresses many day to day issues anyway. It'd definitely give me a good leg up considering the chassis.

Again, I'm re reading your initial, and it's a lot to take in at once. But very very grateful for your input!!

It just kinda comes out when I get excited to talk about racing. But if your track is super laid back, that Eibach kit should be more than enough. Just tack on some camber plates.

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RichV · Dec 21, 2016

Frank.JD.Perez said:
Open track? Id say dont go higher than 373s and you probably want 355s but thats just me.

*ahem*

*performing dark ritual*

*calling upon*
ReplicaR
wmfateam
hotmustang95
mcglsr2

I'm truly hurt, lol.

I put a bunch of stickies in this section when it got put up.

Track Safety

How to Get on Track

Basic Handling Improvements

It has most of the basics covered.

I also W2W race with NASA. I've done TT and also instruct open track. I will get back on here in a bit, busy x-mas shopping.

wmfateam · Dec 21, 2016

RichV said:
I'm truly hurt, lol.

I put a bunch of stickies in this section when it got put up.

Track Safety

How to Get on Track

Basic Handling Improvements

It has most of the basics covered.

I also W2W race with NASA. I've done TT and also instruct open track. I will get back on here in a bit, busy x-mas shopping.

[emoji13] [emoji13] That was a low blow, by both of them.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

I blame my phone...notice the typos..
I honestly didn't see them.
Now I feel like an ass.

Going to spend the evening reading.
I'll pm you a few specific questions in the morning!
My bad!!

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

Frank.JD.Perez said:
Open track? Id say dont go higher than 373s and you probably want 355s but thats just me.

*ahem*

*performing dark ritual*

*calling upon*
[MENTION=9209]ReplicaR[/MENTION]
[MENTION=18765]wmfateam[/MENTION]
[MENTION=15115]hotmustang95[/MENTION]
[MENTION=15705]mcglsr2[/MENTION]

OMG...I didn't even see this either...

To the laptop!!
my apologies gentlemen..

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

wmfateam said:
It just kinda comes out when I get excited to talk about racing. But if your track is super laid back, that Eibach kit should be more than enough. Just tack on some camber plates.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Laid back?
"what's your HP? Weight?"
"okay, you're in C class"
"Registration and insurance?"
"Sign here..."

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

My buddy whipped out his phone for his TA, and guestimated 300rwhp
they plugged it into their computer and classed him.
No inspection, just having state is good.

I could lie about weight and HP and bully trucks..
That's our track.......

96blak54 · Dec 21, 2016

Cheating is essential. Asking forgiveness when caught.

98DesertGT · Dec 21, 2016

Haha make up some ridiculous power to weight ratio...

assuming a victory...people may get curious

Frank.JD.Perez · Dec 22, 2016

RichV said:
I'm truly hurt, lol.

I put a bunch of stickies in this section when it got put up.

Track Safety

How to Get on Track

Basic Handling Improvements

It has most of the basics covered.

I also W2W race with NASA. I've done TT and also instruct open track. I will get back on here in a bit, busy x-mas shopping.