OnyxCobra
Post Whore
HIDs might take more power on initial startup, but less to maintain once lit.
Fog Light Mod + HID's
- Thread starter sleepn_sn95
- Start date
ttocs said:
i never said that a cap increases power or helps supply it, if you read what i typed then youd see that i said it helps to steady the flow, big difference. Adding an extra battery gives you extra reserve, adding a cap simply allows the cap to take the hard hits and surges rather than your altenator or battery seeing them. all of the higher end hid kits that we ever did at my shop pulled a lil more current than some of the cheaper kits that some people buy, but thats besides the point. wiring straight into the headlight harness still isnt the most steady current flow you can get, ballast arent the most steady of devices in the current that they pull. as everyone has seen in our cars any flicker or irregularity in voltage or current on any circuit in our cars will most definatley throw some kind of light. thats all the post was ever meant to explain. if you are gonna do it, do it right with a set of relays.
i did my time as well in 12volt since i was young. got to hang out with RIchard Clark and David Navone on many occasions at many events. but that was all back in the day when you were top dog if you had a Denon deck modified with 4v out on the low levels, dual ALesis eq's converted to 12v power, image dynamics carbon compression horns and all that other good jazz.
Not here to stir the crap, just to chitchat and maybe help someone out if they need it. :headbang:
Let's look at it this way, we can argue the does and doesn't a million time BUT if wiring it through a relay works everytime regardless of ballast location then it is the solution. I have read alot about ballast interference and placement and if you take the time to hide/move/mount/wiggle etc the ballast you could have a relay done already.
only difference between this and your headlights is "30" would be the power line from the headlight to activate the relay, and "86" would be out to your ballast... I would do it if I had HID's, it is a safer route anyway IMO.
only difference between this and your headlights is "30" would be the power line from the headlight to activate the relay, and "86" would be out to your ballast... I would do it if I had HID's, it is a safer route anyway IMO.
Dysfunction
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Dr.Scientist said:
Don't bother with those. I got em awhile back, and it lit the inside of the foglights, kinda. Put out absolutely no light. Send them back the next day. LEDs in the taillights are amazing however.
And to whomever said it... Even halogens with the "same color" as Hids, will be far from the same. A pure white halogen won't happen. Hids are the way to go.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
I am seriously thinking about trying this relay method. My foglight HIDs literally throw the ABS light every time so I'd know right away if it worked.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
Woody6799 said:Let's look at it this way, we can argue the does and doesn't a million time BUT if wiring it through a relay works everytime regardless of ballast location then it is the solution. I have read alot about ballast interference and placement and if you take the time to hide/move/mount/wiggle etc the ballast you could have a relay done already.
only difference between this and your headlights is "30" would be the power line from the headlight to activate the relay, and "86" would be out to your ballast... I would do it if I had HID's, it is a safer route anyway IMO.
What is this relay diagram from? With this diagram you will be able to turn on your dome light when you open your door bt it has nothing to do with headlights..............
I was just wanting to know why relays were needed. I installed them already myself after reading it was recomended but never understood why as it isn't the current surges of 10 whole amps that requires it.
ttocs said:Woody6799 said:Let's look at it this way, we can argue the does and doesn't a million time BUT if wiring it through a relay works everytime regardless of ballast location then it is the solution. I have read alot about ballast interference and placement and if you take the time to hide/move/mount/wiggle etc the ballast you could have a relay done already.
only difference between this and your headlights is "30" would be the power line from the headlight to activate the relay, and "86" would be out to your ballast... I would do it if I had HID's, it is a safer route anyway IMO.
What is this relay diagram from? With this diagram you will be able to turn on your dome light when you open your door bt it has nothing to do with headlights..............
I was just wanting to know why relays were needed. I installed them already myself after reading it was recomended but never understood why as it isn't the current surges of 10 whole amps that requires it.
its not about the ballast needing the steady current so much as it is the other devices that the irregular upand down pull can affect, the flickering of power that a ballast draws can send bad signals up the wiring of other devices that are sharing the same circuit. this flicker causes lights to come on on your dash cause the car doesnt understand why that device is sending a signal that is not what it normaly sends. the relay isolates the ballast by itself so to avoid this.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
my fog lights never trip the ABS light from being on, it's only if you turn them on once the car is started.
OnyxCobra said:
which would follow my last post. if your switch is on when you start the car its already seeing the iregular signal coming from the abs wires but i fyou turn your switch on after youve started the can then you are changing the signal it sees and now your light is on. again, its not good having something like the ballast sharing a comon ground with other devices. its the same as the cameras that i do in houses and office buildings, i cant power my cameras off a circuit that has flourescent lights on it or it causes interference in the pic.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
Ok so how bout this. Sometimes my headlights trip the ABS also but it's usually when switching them from brights to low beams and sometimes when turning them on too. But they have a separate positive and negative line running to the battery...
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I can deal with that explanation.
OnyxCobra said:
you are still trigering them grom the same wiring circuit as the abs regardless of it having a seperate wire going to the battery. when switching from low to high or visaversa you are again causing a flicker or change in signal being sent up the circuit. what you have to remember is that even though these dont pull a lot of current, they are making a hell of a lot of voltage---way more than 12volts. that leaks out across anything it is sharing the wiring with.
again, totaly isolate everything the right way with the relays, if still having same issue then well call an excorcist!!!! lol
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
the change in current he talks about is only when the ballast is first powered up, you notice how the light changes colors slightly? For the first few seconds it can vary a few amps which is a fairly significant change since it is low current already. Going from high beam to low beam will flash the ballasts on/off/on and that could throw some codes.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
the ballasts shouldn't be active when switching from high to low, it just moves the bulb in the housing. it doesn't ignite a different bulb.
I would if i knew how. I will have to learn.
evilcw311 said:
I would if i knew how. I will have to learn.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I covered how to do it earlier in the post, either that or just order the complete hrns with the correct ends/fuse holders off of ebay for $15 each.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
I think i read it I just didn't understand. I'll review it when I get closer to working on it.
