1994Gtmustang
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Good idea so you said take out the fuse and run 12 V to it at that point I should see power at the plug by the coolant temperature switch, correct
fuse charts for 1994 GT 5.0 5 speed convertible
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ttocs
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This is not a bad idea but I would recommend putting a fuse on that jumper wire. This can be done easily if you have crimp on female spade connectors if you have them(doesn't everyone?).
1994Gtmustang
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I will keep everyone posted when I get home today. If this works, then there’s a bad connection under the actual fuse box.
1994Gtmustang
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I’ve traced everything down, tested every wire every circuit. Everything leads back to the PCM. I will wire up an external switch for the fan very easy, it is not my daily driver so I will just have to monitor the temperature. It seems that this is the problem with these N95 mustangs
What did you figure out I'm doing some testing on mine as well to make sure the low and the high speed fan is coming on his eye I'm thinking only the high-speed fan is coming on. Upon checking the fuses under the hood after I did not get any power at the fan plug connector, the 10 amp fuse is not getting any power but when I jumped it I got power.
ttocs
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have you tried replacing the 60 engine amp relay or testing its connections? Sorry if this has been answered already I looked but didn't see anything about testing/replacing it. Relays don't often go bad but they can
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I don't know about his case but no power at the 10 amp fuse and going over to the ccrm connector I know the issue with mine is likely when I went to put the ccrm box back on after I did the I was working on something on that side when I put it went to put it back on I stripped out the inside of it and could not get it tightened. Now whenever you meet up the harness with the ccrm it's snug and so what I did was I just zip tied it so it would not move or come loose. So that was not the issue it was making a good connection but that little rivet thing or whatever that stripped out you could hear it moving around inside and I didn't really think anything of it but looks like that shorted out I can see a few burnt spots inside of the connector as well as on the ccrm. So my big thing is I'm going to have to now make some post on the different groups and ask guys opinion on how extensive of a repair this is going to be. I need to see what all needs to move out of the way to even make that repair or I'm guessing some shops should be able to find the proper wires that's going to need tracing out and reconnecting and just work around that versus trying to remove everything out of the way to get to it
I don't know but I'm pretty pissed about this. I mean I could always drive the car like it is the only issue I'm having is the AC when the AC is running it warms up more about 210 to 12 and when I go to restart it it'll start out fine but if I don't play with the gas until I leave the parking lot or get gone it'll want to cut off. Once I get going it's fine. So I'll get some opinions on what it's going to cost to fix this issue and right now I'm the only thing that seems to not be working as a result of that is the low speed fan but the high speed is working.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I wouldn't think that wire ties would be a good substitute for the screw that held it in nice and tight. The ties will stretch where the screw ensured a solid connection.
Another thing I noticed if you look at the schematic on this page about half way down and then read about the ac high pressure fan cut off switch. It says in the notes that terminals a and b are normally open and then close at 325 psi and open at 275. I have a hunch that if that switch were to go bad and stay open all the time that you would not get power out of the ecu because it thinks the temp is not high enough to turn on.
Not sure where the switch is, or if this could be the cause but it is possible
Another thing I noticed if you look at the schematic on this page about half way down and then read about the ac high pressure fan cut off switch. It says in the notes that terminals a and b are normally open and then close at 325 psi and open at 275. I have a hunch that if that switch were to go bad and stay open all the time that you would not get power out of the ecu because it thinks the temp is not high enough to turn on.
Not sure where the switch is, or if this could be the cause but it is possible
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