gears for a manual

OP
OP
ttocs

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,656
Reaction score
5,665
Location
Evansville Indiana
I thought there was more to it like measuring lash and some other measurements needed to get it in right? I don't have a press but napa isn't that far away with one
 

lwarrior1016

Mr. Secondary Timing Chain
Staff
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
8,554
Reaction score
4,381
Location
South Mississippi
Yes sir, you have to measure backlash. That's the easiest part. The hardest part is setting the pinion depth, even then, if you measure the thickness of your current pinion head with the current shim and you use the appropriate shim to make the new pinion head the same thickness as the old one, that should get you right or at least in the area that will set the gears up quietly. Then you set the backlash, that is just moving the ring gear left or right to make the gears tight enough. You just check that with the dial indicator, its measuring the play in between the meshed teeth.
 
OP
OP
ttocs

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,656
Reaction score
5,665
Location
Evansville Indiana
Yes sir, you have to measure backlash. That's the easiest part. The hardest part is setting the pinion depth, even then, if you measure the thickness of your current pinion head with the current shim and you use the appropriate shim to make the new pinion head the same thickness as the old one, that should get you right or at least in the area that will set the gears up quietly. Then you set the backlash, that is just moving the ring gear left or right to make the gears tight enough. You just check that with the dial indicator, its measuring the play in between the meshed teeth.

I think I understood maybe half of that. My only exp in this swap is what I have seen on the power block. I will have to check with my motor buddy if he has done it but I am sure he has.
 

lwarrior1016

Mr. Secondary Timing Chain
Staff
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
8,554
Reaction score
4,381
Location
South Mississippi
I think I understood maybe half of that. My only exp in this swap is what I have seen on the power block. I will have to check with my motor buddy if he has done it but I am sure he has.

There are some pretty good you tube videos that explain it. I promise you will understand everything once you see it, also I'm not the best at describing things lol. I can help though.
 

the5.ohh

Legend
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
9,561
Reaction score
129
Location
Shaolin, NY
Only use Ford Racing gears.. 3.73s will make 1st gear pretty short, and you'll run through the gears quickly.. Stay away from 4.10s. Idc what anyone says, 4.10s in a T5 is stupid, and obnoxious, Been there, done that. I miss the bite of the 4.10s, but my 3.55s are perfect. Decent rpms, not always changing gears.. 3.55s are perfect for boost. Highly recommend them.
 

Mustanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Messages
2,310
Reaction score
120
Location
Southern Oregon
Also the Ford Mechanics could not use the new FRPP S spring !!! Just could not force it on so reused the old one....I don't know if that is good or bad...I did hear that you need a Big Fat Hammer! So far all is good!

I like The 5.0hhh's advice a couple posts up....I LOVE the driveability of my 3:55's!!!!!! Best mod I have ever done...(had) lol.... I actually picked UP 1mpg on average! It pulls in every gear and First is still viable. a really dramatic difference from the stock 2:73's!
 
OP
OP
ttocs

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,656
Reaction score
5,665
Location
Evansville Indiana
I'm sorry to hear that man. However, I am glad to see that you keep your head up about it! You do great work as it is, keep it up.

Also, it make sense for you to go to a shop for it. You don't want it eating up ALL your time. Good luck with whichever route you decide to take.
thanks for the complements and kind words. Not sure about keeping my head up though. I use to be the most happy/fun optimistic person you met but now I am a anything but. I miss the dude I use to be and the life I had. But enough of me and my pitty potty...


Yeah its a dedicated job.... not something i would do with a DD but if you don't drive it much do it.

not sure if that reassures me or not :)



I would go with 3.73 gears and a plastic drive gear. I'd get the gears installed from a pro and do the plastic drive gear myself.


For highway/daily driver I would go 3.55 or 3.73. For occasional strip use I would go 4.10 or lower. I've installed many set of gears and have all the tool for the job. You can do it with shop tools and a press, but you will need to be comfortable reading the gear pattern. don't use too much paste when checking pattern.
373s.

Gears aren't terribly hard to do, did mine. It was quick to do rear end swap and rebuild w/gear change

I know I am not an idiot and could figure it out with a manual and the internet given enough time but when I get into something new I really prefer to have someone that knows what they are doing to help/teach as well as to tell me if I am about to screw something up. If I can get someone to demonstrate how to do it and then have them watch me do it 99% of the time I will not need it explained again.

Is there a place I can get an idea of what rmps I would be running at different speeds with diferent gear sets?
 

Kboss87

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
205
Reaction score
0
Location
Southeastern, PA
If you keep the stock shims labeled, replace with ford gears, and reinstall the shims in the same places (including pinion and differential)...you will be in spec or very close to it. You still need to check over everything with a dial indicator and paint, but this will get you very close. If you do need to adjust anything, measure the stock shims, and replicate it with the shims packs that come with your gears. Then you can add or subtract shims to adjust.

I've done this every time and haven't had one noisy set.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,517
Messages
1,504,125
Members
14,983
Latest member
robtalbott

Members online

Top