96flmustang said:
Thanks for the advice guys. Its just a little frustrating but a lot of fun. I spend a little money on gears and exhaust on my last Mustang and got in down to 15.5 and it was an auto and convertible. I was hoping that a 5.0 and 5 speed along with a car lighter than my vert it would make a difference. Anyway
here are my times from last Wed.
Me driving/no passenger friend driving/with passenger
r/t........350 r/t.......638
60'.......2.621 60'......2.681
330.....7.365 330....7.061
1/8......10.924 1/8......10.533
mph......69.70 mph 71.14
1000....14.110 1000...13.541
1/4.......16.736 1/4.....16.072
mph......86.74 mph....89.33
Let's see if I can be of any help...
First off, I wouldn't spend any money on mods until you have gears and a trak-loc rebuild. That will have the most significant impact and be the best bang for you buck at this stage of the game. A set of 3.73s should work fine for you. I would do a short-throw shifter next.
Before you do ANYTHING, make sure you have a good tuneup in the car as well. It's got quite a few miles on it, so a good freshening is important. I just picked up my 95 GT coupe daily driver two months ago - it has 130K miles and here's what I did to it immediately after purchasing it.
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Coil (probably not necessary)
Oil Change (10w30 Castrol, nothing fancy for me)
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter (very important)
Tranny Fluid
Rear Diff fluid (I had all new gears, t-lok rebuild, axle bearings, seals etc. installed. I used 75w90 Royal Purple synthetic)
PCV
Brake fluid (won't affect your track times, but it's nice to be able to stop
)
Air filter (installed MAC CAI - not great but not bad. A stock airbox setup was unavailable)
My car runs between 14.4-14.6 normally, with full weight (zero weight reduction) and on 245/45/17 goodyear street tires. It traps 94 mph on nearly every run with the following mods:
Edelbrock Performer Intake
70mm TB
CAI
shorty headers
stock catalytic h-pipe (seriously)
flowmaster catback
short-throw shifter
I figure you should be able to get at least 91 mph out of your car the way it sits. If you can get a 2.1-2.2 60' time, that could save you nearly a second in your 1/4 mile times. If your track will allow it, ask them to have you "shallow stage". This means you will only pull forward until the first bulb is lit. This can give you an extra 7 inches or so before you break the beams and activate the time clock. Although it doesn't seem like much, this can help your ET, but it hurts your RT (which is irrelevant when you're just going for fastest time). Launch when YOU ARE READY - even if that is five seconds after the green light. The timeclock doesn't start until you break the beams and leave the line. This will give you ample time to make sure you are at the correct RPM that YOU want to launch at. It will also allow you to be more consistent in your launches.
Don't over-rev the car. Stock 5.0s (especially old tired ones) don't make much power past 51-5200 rpms. I think I had my best luck shifting around 54-5600 rpms. Play with it a little to determine what your car likes best. There is a huge disparity in your 330' times between you and your friend, yet he actually 60-footed slower than you. This means something is happening between shifts.
In short, practice, practice, practice. You'll be in the 14s before you know it.
Paul.