Green car

[Snorky]

Alright, hell has frozen over again. My heads were finished with new manley race master +1mm intake valves and ferrea +1mm exhaust valves. Converted back to regular stock style keepers. If anyone needs any of the Manley single groove keepers.. let me know. Have an engines worth. Couldn't seem to find Ferrea +1mm intake valves that my engine builder wanted. Oh well.. They're back together. Cleaned and stoned the heads.

I reused my head gaskets since all I did was bolt them down. I noticed a rivet on each of the head gaskets at the front tang of the head being a problem so I drilled the brass rivet out. Blew the head gasket off and sent it. Cleaned the deck. Screwed my arp2000 head studs down "ball end of the apan wrench tight to simulate what I could do grabbing the stud itself. Torqued the head down 30 x2. 60 x 2 85 x .

Used some fine sandpaper to lightly touch the cam journals on the heads to make sure nothing snags. Stoned the contact points on the cam journals where the caps meet. Cleaned them. Lubed them with assembly lube. Cleaned and lubed the cams. In they went. Torqued to 96 inch lbs. Put in the lifters that were soaking in oil for what seems like an eternity. Put the chain guides on. Torqued to (90? Inch lbs.) Then did the dot to dot timing since this things been degreed about a thousand times. Lol Used a 51 drill bit as the "grenade" pin on the tensioners(tq to 20 lb ft)
Timing cover on. Valve covers on. Idler on. (Tensioner pulley probably needs a new bearing.) Left my sleeve of bearings in the red car)

Cranked over by hand. Always makes you second guess yourself from the tensioners loosening and tightening as you crank it lol. No ptv. Gapped the old br7ef plugs to .028"

Send them in at 144 in/lbs. And tossed on the balancer arp bot at 100 lb/ft.

I did find it interesting that the new valves didn't require the spring shims that Jordan at mhs put in when he made my heads. I suppose the ferrea exhaust valves with the regular keepers were just at a different height or didn't need extra preload. Not sure the science behind that.


Anyway... that was enough work for one afternoon. Back feels like a 74 year old man after that lol. Have a week long work trip to Costa Rica again monday... (love finding out about it at Friday at 3 p.m) . Coworker said this coming weekend he could skim cut my headers (he's wayyyyyyy better at fixturing a mill than I am) Then I can finish the rest of the assembly process to leak test.

 

[Akurma]

"Cranked over by hand. Always makes you second guess yourself from the tensioners loosening and tightening as you crank it lol." - This freaked me out the first time I cranked my engine over by hand hahah

 

[Snorky]

"Cranked over by hand. Always makes you second guess yourself from the tensioners loosening and tightening as you crank it lol." - This freaked me out the first time I cranked my engine over by hand hahah

Freaks me out every timr actually lol

 

[96blak54]

Stupid question....
Did you install the timing reluctor wheel?

 

[Snorky]

Stupid question....
Did you install the timing reluctor wheel?

Yes sir!!! That's super important

 

[96blak54]

Anytime someone shows build pics, I always ask that question. Its very easy to forget the timing wheel.

 

[Snorky]

Anytime someone shows build pics, I always ask that question. Its very easy to forget the timing wheel.

Yeah I think I forgot it once

 

[Snorky]

My coworker had finally gotten the chsnce to mill my hesders clean. After lifting the engine off the K and removing the motor mount. I was able to put the drivers header on. Then once it mount was back on. I reattached the engine to the K, Torqued everything down. Reattached the oil relocation lines to the engine, installed the passenger header and starter. Like. Breeze lol. Tossed the intake manifold on but decided I wanted to order stainless fasteners for it, a few to hold the p51 together and my valve covers. So I will wait till they come in to replace those, finishing the intake install. Alternator. Ps pump then bolt the turbo piping up and check for leaks. Will be a busy night later this week. Can see the Forbidden Fruit in the background.

 

[Snorky]

Got busy last night. Real busy! Swapped the intake bolts and bolts holding the intake together with Stainless fasteners, as well as the valve cover bolts. Put the Cops a d fuel rails on. Plugged everything in( less 1 plug)
Permatex red on the Vee band flanges, and on the turbo went! When I go up there next time I will do a leak test and shove it in!!!



Anyone know how crucial this ground is? I might make it an eye hook and put it to the rear of the valve cover

Also those little electrical noise canceling devices at the front of the valve covers, the plug connector came off the wire, I eill try and remove the spade and repair it. Anyone know if they make these things still?

 

[Snorky]

Huge update on this project. Saturday I out in work. Can honestly say I am never doing this engine install on asphalt again. 2 year old asphault from gypsies is not hard enough apparently. Lol the dollies, jackstands and cherry picker were apl sinking into the pavement. It was a bit scary. On the flip side it's definitely way easier hooking everything back up.



The next time I go up I'm getting down to the shortlist. Put the back of the car up. Do the driveshaft. Fill the trans. Shifte/bezel. Fill the Power steering fluid. And fill it eith coolant, front bumper, inner fenderliners. Front tires. Wire in and mount thr meth solenoid. Plop the Battery in and fire it overnto start burping the coolant. Then a lot of cruising out of throttle to make sure everything goes smoothly without leaks and to burn through a tank of gas. Then I can make a dyno appointment.

 

[Snorky]

So I still have a passenger header leak somewhere.. I half give up. But here is the maiden voyage.⁹

Needs suspension work, alignment and working on exhaust clearance. The saleen wing needs to be pulled and reapplied with adhesion promoter. The drivers side burn needs to be fitted as well. The meth solenoid needs to be mounted and wired in then i can have it retuned.

Drove it 80 miles today, only hitting a couple psi and letting the WG pop. Sounds wild. I don't know if I have the motivation to put it in the air to pull the passenger merge pipe, starter and header to try a remflex gasket or not..

 

[Musturd]

Hell yea . Love the electric green

 

[Snorky]

Hell yea . Love the electric green

Thanks man, hopefully I can iron all this bologna out and just enjoy the car now

 

[Snorky]

An update on this, I pulled the passenger header off and milled it so its less than .004" out of flat on a granite surface plate. Reassembled using a remflex gasket. Stoned the head/header mating surfaces. Stoned the piss out of the V bands. Reassembled using generous portions of rtv red. Leak tested it with the vacuum set to blow and windex. No bubbles on the passenger header. Or V bands. Fired it up. Still the ticking leak noise. Sprayed the drivers header that has some foam(sound comes from passenger side) and drivers vee band that does not. Then sprayed into the wastegate dump tube T the valve. Like a foam party. Pull the gate. Disassemble, inspect the diaphragm. Lap the valve and fire ring. 1200 grit spot sand any high spots on the fire ring OD and the gate housing ID to ensure smooth insertion. All looks good. Stone the pins out of the gate and pipe V band to ensure flatness. Reassembled and no foaming now. Car still makes the ticking leak sound. I am stumped. Do I unwrap the headers and spray every weld? I hear it at idle and when I rev it. Garrit tells me his makes the tick at idle only and you can only hear it when your head is near the fenderwell. I hear mine from the drivers seat underload when reving or cruising. Maybe it's a Crack in a weld somewhere? Maybe it's just a crappy collector design. If I'm in second gear at 2k rpm and flat foot it. It makes 1 psi at ~3000rpm then builds rapidly to ~14 psi(gate pressure) by ~4400 rpm. Does this seem leggy to anyone? Taking 1000 rpm to go from 0-1 psi? Before I pull and mill the drivers side and install a remflex gasket. Does anyone think it could be the fact that I have the larger on3 4" intercooler and that giant plenum P51 intake that could affect that transient spool time? The turbo cams are designed for spool wide lsa 115??? .226/.226 duration. 9.5:1 compression on 93. Could it be in the tune being way the F off and that it really needs a returned in the midrange? Went from stock heads 6765 to ported/oversize valves 7575. The problem of making peak boost at 4300 was the same on the older setup. Perhaps I am asking too much of a turbo setup with a 5 speed and this is why people go automatic so it only spools once. Let me know your thoughts. I am torn between selling this setup at a catastrophic loss and going back to a simple blower and just saying it is what it is and spend the money on a retune.