Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[Snorky]

So I get conflicting information. When I shop on rockauto for v10 superduty 2004 fuel pumps they provide me with pump numbers that are rated at ~144 lph at 44 psi~

This is where we get into the weeds as returnless and return style systems have completely different pump requirements and I have had a mix of experience with the 2.

Ie. My green car with the procharger at 9 psi with cams ~425 whp/397wtq on a returnless setup ran a bbk 300 with a boost a pump as a safety measure. Or a 340 pump with no BAP.. but that ended up giving me problems for whatever reason. That was with 47# injectors

The green cars return system with the turbo/heads/cams at 13 psi 540+whp and a bunch more torque using 60 lb injectors and running full time one 300lph pump and a second 300 lph pump on a Hobbs switch that kicks on around 7 psi.

The return style has a greater overhead of power capabilities, the super duty v10 is a return system from the factory which is nice.. So I'm kind of thinking a 255 pump is the way to go. On one hand I'm not running an extra atmosphere of pressure, on the other I'm running an engine that is 48% larger.

What do you think? Is a 255 enough? Or is a 300+ the way to go?

 

[Snorky]

Alright upon searching the lmr foxbody aeromotive 340 reviews the setup is not a drop in on the 94 tank. Something to do eith the locking tab difference between foxbody and 94 that are no longer made. Guy said to be prepared to purchase a fuel tank.

I will search and try and find reviews on the lmr sve hat eith the 94 tank fitment.

 

[Snorky]

Okay so I can't order a pump yet lol, maybe next month. Havent had the time nor motivation to setup the welder in my driveway and run the table and extension cord up and outside/pull the bottle/welder from the car to practice yet. Since I finished patching and Painting walls and finished up the electrical circuit repair in my house. I have decided I will work on something fun. I bought a bourgeois carbon fiber cowl panel second hand a year or so ago that had adhesive etched Into the gel coat for the rubber trim that wasn't on it. Goo gone and other efforts did not remove so went to the sanding phase. Set up a saw horse and picked up a bauer battery 5" sander with a hook and loop adapter to PSA pads.

Started with 800 which removed it beautifully. But was very labor intensive for only 8" of material removed.

Decided to drop it to 600. Will remove the strip. Clean it up with 800, then go over the whole thing in 800 and respray it with a 2k clear as I'm positive it's just the factory Gelcoat on it which will yellow inevitably. did the whole piece. I will block and hand sand the rest once I go over the edges and 600 spots with 800. I have a rubber seal for it but it's eh.. looking..if anyone has any suggestions for one that looks more like a factory piece I am all ears. Unless I try and scalp one off of the factory cowl panel...



That will wait though as I am in Newark Airport at 5 a.m. writing this heading to Klein tools in Texas this week. When leaving the car I stared at the depressing headers and thought, why couldnt I just be a normal boring person who is obsessed with the latest sports game he will never play? Lol which quickly answered itself!

 

[ttocs]

if you sand it out a coat of clear will make it look nice again.

 

[Snorky]

if you sand it out a coat of clear will make it look nice again.

That's the goal anyway. I'll see if I can transfer over the rubber bits from the stock cowl.

 

[ttocs]

some rtv has held mine on

 

[Snorky]

some rtv has held mine on

You mean the stock cowl/windshield gasket?

 

[ttocs]

I have had a cf cowl for I am not sure how long now. A light line of RTV around the edge and then taped them in place overnight but yes the stock rubber to the new cf.

 

[Snorky]

Finished wet sanding it the other day.
Then into the paint booth it went. Used a 4:1 catamount coatings 421 premium clear. Shot it at @28 psi through the "nicer" central pneumatic paint gun. .. since I ball out of control. 10 minute flash time. 2 coats.

Brought it out in the sun today to check it out. Don't mind the smudge hand prints on it. Now to remove the stocker and transfer all the stuff over.

 

[Snorky]

Well its on, just sits a touch high in the middle, not sure why. Looks good though

 

[96blak54]

It does look good!

 

[Snorky]

It does look good!

Thanks man! Feels good to get that thing out of my basement after a year.

 

[96blak54]

I like the carbon fiber wiper cowl looks. I have a good stock replacement staged for the broken brittle one thats on the 96

 

[Snorky]

I like the carbon fiber wiper cowl looks. I have a good stock replacement staged for the broken brittle one thats on the 96

The stock ones with a fresh coat of SEM trim black look really good

 

[Snorky]

Alright... so I went onto the back patio under the giant trees in my yard to drink my coffee and a bird shit on me mid coffee sip. So I decided I should give this thread an update. As everyone knows I was going mad sifting through the superduty wiring harness. Then through conversations I heard from a friend that the SCT tuners latest updates in software have essentially deleted a wideband +/- input voltage which would make data log tuning something like this project far more difficult. That's bummer #1, then I ended up going to 2 wakes/funerals and decided why am I wasting hours and hours doing this pinout bullshit to save money and that the important thing is time. (Realizing I had picked up the v10 core nearly 6 years ago now)

I decided I was going to simplify my life and get shit done. I drove the 4 hour round trip to harrys U pull in Hazelton, PA. Where in the entire wrecking yard full of Chevrolet trucks I found/ piece mealed together these square port smart coils/brackets and wiring pigtails.


Now I have the three 4 packs, I will need to convert them to two 5 packs. I am planning to run an ms3 pro ultimate with dual cambus widebands. In fact I made an offer for a bnib ms3pro ultimate with flying lead harness that was accepted. I sent the paint and literally went to go tell him I sent it and maybe 1 minute earlier he said a local guy was on his way with cash in hand paying $150 more.. I'm just thankful the guy possessed some degree of ethics and did the full refund. Was chock full if anxiety till I saw that email. Was super bummed though since I watched that ms3 pro sitting for sale for probably 2-3 months until I made the offer. I guess it's just one of those "figures"... moments. So now I am on the hunt again. Another guy has one for sale but allegedly has one hour of run time to just "start it" and has the harness cut up. He is asking 950 shipped firm. It comes with a dumb wideband, not sure if that includes the module. What do you think of this? New harness is $300 from diyautotune. If needed dual canbus widebands with the modules would be another $400. Might be able to run it with dumb wide bands though. Give me your thoughts on used aftermarket ecus.



On a brighter note I have fixed the redcars AC <3<3<3 and adjusted the drivers door to close up the window gap a lot more. Winning!