HAHA Compression test

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

yea but selling the stuff will get me in the 4v faster. Yea i'm not sweating it that much right now though.

reivaxtorres · Sep 18, 2007

oh, gotcha.

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

still interested in hearing what you think of the pi swap though

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 18, 2007

I swapped to PI heads and VT stage I N/A cams, gained nearly 90 rwhp, it was figgin awesome! Like a I stuck a built motor in there.

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

really. That sounds killer dude.... so what was the before and after rwhp? that pretty nice... I'm thinking i'll go up 90 to a 100 rwhp.

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 18, 2007

Before was 205 or 208? Pull was aborted due to a cracked in half T45. That was Offroad H, catback, PI intake, Saleen U/D pulley's. After tunning was 289, with PI heads, shorties, same exhaust, non-cracked in half T56. Only changes were the PI heads and shorties, and the T56, which probably hurt more than helped.

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

wow thats nice , but damn it if i get beat by 99 up gt's or pi swapped cars i'm gonna be pissed...

reivaxtorres · Sep 18, 2007

voidfinger said:
wow thats nice , but damn it if i get beat by 99 up gt's or pi swapped cars i'm gonna be pissed...

i only had one 99+ gt beat me in all my runs against them(on the street, on the track is different because they usually had d/r's and i was on street tires), and i didnt have the PI cams or intake then. im thinking ill prob pick up a good 15rwhp from the PI heads tho. my last dyno was 218rwhp, that was with:

u/d pullies, k&n intake, 75mm tb/plennum combo, frpp 9mm wires, aluminum flywheel, kc clutch, catted x pipe, catback(magnaflow), 190lph fuel pump, and stock tune.

now i have...

same as above + stock catback, msd coil packs, aluminum driveshaft, PI h/c/i, nology plug wires, and ill prob throw it on the dyno once i make sure everything went ok with the swap.

oh, and apparently my car still has the crosshatch on the cylinder walls, my friend said it was a good thing, apparently something about it showing that the engine is still good.

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 18, 2007

I got a GT500 with my current set-up, ha ha, poor fool probably pissed for his 65k, although I'm pretty close to that mark myself right now.

Crosshatching is needed for the ring's to seal to the cylinder wall's. A good crosshatch on a higher mile motor is indicative of how well it's been maintained, and how much more life is in it.

Recently I've been seeing reports of 300+k mod motor's coming out of fleet trucks, taxis, and cop car's, still looking in good condition internally.

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

nice.

reivaxtorres · Sep 18, 2007

Jrgunn5150 said:
I got a GT500 with my current set-up, ha ha, poor fool probably pissed for his 65k, although I'm pretty close to that mark myself right now.

Crosshatching is needed for the ring's to seal to the cylinder wall's. A good crosshatch on a higher mile motor is indicative of how well it's been maintained, and how much more life is in it.

Recently I've been seeing reports of 300+k mod motor's coming out of fleet trucks, taxis, and cop car's, still looking in good condition internally.

yeah, i noticed the crosshatch too, the walls were really smooth and i just thought it was scratch marks, tho i dont know what would have scratched it. i thought it they were really light, but my friend said it was normal and that it looked really good. cant wait to get it running...... :banana:

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

well, the rims i was wanting that i was selling the heads for fell threw... sold from under me.... :nonono: anyway, i think i will do the head swap now just to say ... fuck it.

reivaxtorres · Sep 18, 2007

well if you need any help with the swap, let me know, mine is all said and done except the stupid dipstick....btw i highly recomend (especially if it works out just as good as im hoping it will) that you get the flexy one so you dont have to deal with the metal one.

voidfinger · Sep 18, 2007

i'm gonna try to get the metal one to work.

Dusstbuster · Sep 19, 2007

Anyone know if there is a formula for figuring out what your PSI should be based off your CR? I know there has to be something (complicated due to combustion chamber, piston type (dished, domed, whatever)) but just a general guideline?

voidfinger · Sep 19, 2007

well everyone told me that my car should be around 160 which the cars stock is like 9:1 or 9.4:1 Cr. "I THINK" :thumb:

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 19, 2007

Cams affect cranking compression too.

voidfinger · Sep 19, 2007

well i got stock so lol.... hey guys .... some one told me that the cause of the 170's on the side could be because of one cam being out of time.... does that mean that it has always been that way or could it be because of the chains and tentioners??? plus how much would it cost to replace them??? I don't feel like spending an arm and leg to replace...

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 19, 2007

It would be because of machining difference's, the keyway is slightly off. It would only need to be off by like 2 degrees for the difference you showed.

voidfinger · Sep 19, 2007

Jrgunn5150 said:
It would be because of machining difference's, the keyway is slightly off. It would only need to be off by like 2 degrees for the difference you showed.

So it wouldn't be one of the chains or tentioners going bad? Just wondering... i don't want to replace if i don't have to you know.