Help me build my rear... suggestions on difs, axles, etc.

thorco3

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Alright, I will slowly but surely be picking up everything to build up my rear end a bit. I do go to the track from time to time so I would like it to hold up to some abuse. Give me some input

So far this is what I'm thinking: gears, dif, install kit, axles, speedcal, girldle

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3.73's - already purchased FRPP

new dif - need some suggestions here... Ford, auborn, etc.?

install kit - again some suggestions would help (I used a motive gear install kit in my 98, didn't have any problems just wondering if there is anything else that would be better)

31 spline axles - moser, superior, etc.?

speedcal - again used one in my 98... do they even work with 95's, I can't think of why they wouldn't.

and a shiney new Ford racing girdle to finish it off.


Anything else I seem to be missing? I just figure I might as well take care of everything while I'm getting in there...
 

blown98gt

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just go with the strang rear end i think it's like 600 bucks and you get your choice of 31 or 33 spline axles, and a loc.. that is what i did, beats searching around.. (i like to buy things new from the company direct that way if anything is wrong i have a direction to point my finger :D )

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html

i went with the P2000FM Kit
 

97stanger

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those kits are pretty tempting. Both the latemodel restoration and the strange one. You can get the complete differential/axle/studs for the price of just an eaton posi lol
 

MustangChris

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eaton posi is true LSD, not that dog-leg t-lok BS.... . . and it handles 750HP.. (thats the only HP mark ive heard of an eaton blowing up.... i figure if im pushing 750 and it blows, money well spent... ill upgrade to a 9" lol.

why change the diffy? if you dont get true LSD just rebuild the t-lok.
 

Javi

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31 Spline should be fine no need for 33. Moser.

Motive gear installation kit

Speed cal will work on your t5.

just a FRPP cover.

i recommend you to dont use expensive oil in your installation, cause you want to make sure the Backslash is set right, check for debris at about 500 miles. then use royal purple or whatever you preferred.

sxynerd said:
I love the true-trac but you can't go wrong with good old reliable Traction Loc.

+1 no clutches needed with this.

I <3 mine.

.02
 

Paul

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You can just buy my rear axle. It's already got all that stuff installed - too bad shipping would be really expensive.
 

MustangChris

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Paul said:
You can just buy my rear axle. It's already got all that stuff installed - too bad shipping would be really expensive.

tie it to a bike and ride your bike home :p

then you can say things like "Yea, my Huffy has 4.30s in it... . . pretty sweet...."
 

97stanger

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I just figured out the math though...

You can spend $630 for the Strange package + shipping

or you can go to Americanmuscle.com with our 6% code and buy an Eaton Posi with Moser 31 splines for $681 shipped....hhhmmm
 
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thorco3

thorco3

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hmm, I forgot about our discount through the forums... glad you mentioned that before I buy anything.
 
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thorco3

thorco3

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anybody have any experience or know of anybody using yukon, superior, strange... basically any other aftermarket axle other than moser.

I'm wondering if there is something I can get a little cheaper. I mean, I'm not making tons of power (281/355), but I do want to have something that will last me a while.

I've never been one to cheap out on stuff though, after all you get what you pay for in most cases.
 

97stanger

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Honestly, I don't know of any mustang guys that run anything other than Moser. But than again I dont know anybody who has run strange or superior to say how good/bad they are. I'm sure at that power level you will be fine to save a few bucks.
 

Javi

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31 spline axles moser,superior or strange all are some reputable companies as far as I know.

I have moser 31 spline axles.
 

97stanger

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thorco3

thorco3

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I like the price on that one... anybody ever order from speedconcepts?
 

blown98gt

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Nope, but it all depends on your application and what you want to do.. just a little bit of information first on a couple of lockers/spools.

Spools & Mini Spools:
For racing, serious off-road, or crazy hot-rodders, a spool is the ultimate traction differential. Actually, it can hardly be called a differential because it does not differentiate. Spools have several purposes in a differential. First, they lock both left and right axles solid together so that there can be no loss of power due to the unit allowing one wheel to spin faster than the other. Second, they usually support the ring gear much better than most other differentials. Last, they can be lighter than a differential, which saves rotating mass as well as un-sprung weight that the suspension has to contain. The main shortcoming of spools is the fact that the outside wheel has to turn faster when negotiating a turn if both wheels are to maintain traction. If the axles are locked together, one or both wheels have to slip in order for the outside wheel to travel farther than the inside wheel. This can cause the rear of the vehicle to spin out, fish-tale, or can cause a lot of noise that sounds like positraction clutch chatter as the axles twist and release. Sometimes these effects are not all that bad, and they are less severe when 35-spline or larger axles are used. For those people on a budget, there are mini-spools available for many rearend designs. A mini-spool fits inside the standard open carrier, replacing the spider gears, and locking the left and right axle shafts together just like a spool does. A mini spool drives exactly like a full spool does, but they are not as strong as a full spool and do not add any extra support to the ring gear like a spool does.

Auburn Gear (AG)
The Auburn Gear limited slip uses a cone style clutch that wears directly against the carrier case and provides the friction force to make the unit work. This design is not rebuildable. Once the cone clutch or case wears out, the entire unit must be replaced. Even with this shortcoming, this design works well for occasional use where extra traction is needed. They have good impact strength in passenger cars and trucks up to 1 ton. They will hold up well to high horse power, but will not last long if there is a lot of tire spinning.

Detroit Locker (DET)
Heavy duty. Probably the most durable design available, the king of traction differentials. Usually causes banging and clunking, but gives 100% lock-up whenever traction is needed. Unlocks when negotiating a turn so that the outer wheel can turn faster than the ring gear is turning and the inside wheel are turning. Does not need any interaction from the driver. New Sof-Locker design has damping device to reduce banging and clunking. Includes carrier case that is stronger than stock except in 2 applications where the original factory carrier case is used. Only the 10.5" 14 bolt truck and the Nissan V6 designs use the factory carrier case and these cases are both very strong.

Eaton (EAT)
Clutch type, similar to Trac-Lok in design, yet far stronger like a Power-Lok, and, more aggressive and better lock-up similar to the Power-Lok design. These units came as an original equipment option in 65-72 12T (12 bolt GM truck), 12P (12 bolt GM passenger), 8.2" GM pass, 63-79 Cast Iron Corvettes. The original OEM 12T case was very weak, but the new design replacement from Eaton is very strong. 4 preload springs and 2 steel preload spring plates. Latest design uses HD nodular iron case, forged side and pinion gears, no-chatter, race-bred, carbon fiber clutches for extreme strength and longevity. Old design, all steel clutches which are still available in 18 or 22 clutch designs for those who need more lock-up and are not bothered by clutch chatter. For even more lockup customization, there are also 4 levels of spring pressure available (3 from Eaton and a fourth from GM) that can be used to vary the clutch preload from 200 lbs. to 800 lbs. Originally used in mid sixties GM muscle cars and trucks. This unit is now available for Ford applications and soon will be available for Dana Spicer, AMC, and Chrysler applications. They have a high tolerance for abuse in high horsepower vehicles. Recommended for everyday driving and severe off-road use

Trac-Lok (T/L)
Built by Dana Spicer for use in Spicer rearends, AMC rearends, and 1998 & older 10.25" Ford rearends. The old design built up until about 1989 was weak. The 1990 and newer design is fairly strong and even rivals the Power-Lok for impact durability, but the clutches do not provide as much lock-up force and tend to wear out in about 50,000 miles if used in the rear. Works better in the front of vehicles because it's not aggressive. The main selling points for this design are the fact that clutch chatter is almost non-existent, and it is very inexpensive. These two points make it a great unit for many applications and a very good value for the money. This unit makes a great front limited slip and works well for those who need a little extra traction but cannot tolerate clutch chatter. The Trac-Lok came factory installed in many models such as D28, D44, D60, AMC 20, AMC35, 10.25" Ford. The problem with this unit is that it is not very aggressive and power transfer is minimal. Also, 1988 and earlier units tend to break fairly easily. (1piece case, 2 pinion gears, and 2 tab clutches). (factory )

There are really a lot of types and like I was saying depending on your application that is how you should choose what you need.
 

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