Hoping someone on here has some ideas.

[SnakeBit!]

helping a friend with his fox body. car had power front brakes. now manual front disc brakes. car has all new hard lines and braided lines. car has a proportioning valve only on the rear brakes. car has a dual manual new master cylinder.

when he called me, his hurst line lock was not disengaging the left front when you release the button. . only way to make it disengage was to open the bleeder. using the brakes normally, no sticking of any kind. replaced the line lock with another Hurst. same issue. left front stays locked after engaging the LL and then releasing the button.

first line lock had one line split to the two front brakes. new line lock has separate lines to each front brake coming out of the LL.

we determined that left front caliper was sticking after the line lock had been engaged.. took it to the maker and it was rebuilt. reinstalled the caliper, still only the left front would not disengage the caliper after the LL had been activated. we noticed that all the brakes lines had been replaced except one older rubber line on the left front from the hard line coming out of the LL to the caliper. got a new braided line and installed it. bled the brakes, pedal good, brakes working correctly.

activated the LL. now the left front kind of disengages, meaning it drags more than it should. but the right front now does not lock up at all. we haven't changed anything on the right side since this started. it always worked like it should with the LL, meaning, it locked with the LL engaged and released when releasing the button. only the left stayed locked after releasing the button. now, having not changed anything on the right side, the right side will not lock at all with the LL engaged and the left now releases some. this is driving us nuts. Ideas???

 

[ttocs]

I am not a brake expert but it sounds like there is some kind of restriction in the line going to that brake. I would start by checking the flares on the ends and be sure that maybe while tightening it down it got dicked up or something. Any chance when the hard lines were replaced that the one sticking is maybe slightly smaller diameter?

 

[SnakeBit!]

thanks, I will check that for the diameter and the flares. I think all the fittings now are factory flares instead of ones he made. also, I just remembered, the last time I was there and today, the right side pressure when bleeding the brakes was less than the left side.

 

[SnakeBit!]

fyi, we also decided at one point to check the switch. so we cut the wire to the switch and wired it direct to a battery. engaged the LL and then removed the wire to disengage the LL. no change. the left side stayed locked up so we know the switch is working as it should since no switch resulted in the same issue. I have a hard time convincing myself that two different line locks, one new, could produce the same weird result, one side it released the brakes and one side does not. first LL had a block with the lines split and the new LL has separate lines to each brake. same result with either set up.

of course, now, the left side locks and releases some and the right side does not lock up at all.

 

[SnakeBit!]

what makes this so frustrating is that one side worked as it should and one side did not. same was true with the first LL having the front line coming out of the LL as a single line into a split block to the two front brakes and the new LL has separate lines coming out of the LL to the two front brakes. same result.....right side worked as it should, left would not release. also interesting is that with the brakes being a power unit, it worked as it should, when he switched to a manual brake, no booster, this started. not sure if the new master cylinder could somehow be creating this. don't know how. brakes are fine as long as we don't use the LL.

 

[ttocs]

by swapping the caliper and the LL you should have narrowed down the point of the problem being between them I would think. The switch would not be able to effect one side or the other alone. If the switch were bad the LL would either stay locked up, or not do anything. It has to be in the line IMO but as I said I am not an expert but learned a bit working on mine last year.

 

[SnakeBit!]

my thoughts exactly. the things that throws me is one side was locking and then switching one line, changed what both sides are doing.

 

[white95]

I’m assuming you followed the line diagram correctly and have each port going to the proper place. It is possible that the block itself has an internal machine work error and will never work properly. Hard to diagnose.

 

[SnakeBit!]

yes, I have checked multiple times to make sure all lines are in their proper location. we may change the LL again just in case coincidence is the answer...2 bad LL's. highly unlikely but possible. Hurst has no clue.

 

[Always sideways]

If a old line was on prior I would try flushing it a few times. Never know there could be debree in there.

 

[SnakeBit!]

Thanks. I think if there was any, it should be gone by now. we have tried so many different things and flushed the lines for bleeding the brakes a lot of different times. I suppose some could be in there, but I doubt it at this point, again, due to how many times it has been bled. Thanks for the input.

 

[ttocs]

does it have abs?

 

[SnakeBit!]

no abs. about as simple a brake setup as you can have. manual disc in the front, drums in the back and that's it.

 

[SnakeBit!]

as an update, still no solution. same thing exists from everything we have tried. I am leaning toward a malfunctioning caliper even though it is relatively new and the manufacturer, rebuilt it after we described the issue.

 

[01yellercobra]

I know it's been awhile, but have you tried swapping the solenoids side to side to see if the problem follows? Also, did you try tapping on the solenoid after turning the switch off? If it suddenly releases then you'll know it's something inside the solenoid.