How to change timing?

[cntchds]

I was told by the smog place simply that my ignition timing is off. Is that a fairly easy job to fix by myself, or should I let the pros do it? They want 50 bucks for it.

Lemme know if you know how to.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm going to assume you have a 5.0, and a timing light. If not, go buy a timing light for like 15 bucks from Autozone.

Then, look at your MAF, there is a little hole in the fender next to it, with some wiring going through it. There should be a connector right there, unhook it, and make sure it doesn't shoot through the hole.

Next, loosen the bolt holding the distributor down to the block. I think it's a 9/16, but it's been awhile, it's just a little bolt through a U shaped clamp, that prevents you from turning the distributor, loosen it until it's only snug.

Clip your new timing light to the number one plug wire, and set it safely off to the side.

Fire up the car.

Go back and pick up your timing light, it should be flashing all crazy like.

POint it down at teh balancer, you'll see there is a little tab there.

rotate the distributor as needed, until you get at least ten degrees on the tab. If you run premium, or it's cold where you live, try 12 or even 14.

Shut off the car, tighten up the bolt, hook the Spout connector back up, and enjoy!

 

[cntchds]

You've guessed correctly. Sorry about forgetting to throw in stuff like that, I had been visiting all the sites I'm registered on trying to figure this out, and had been posting in all the 5.0 areas, not just general like this. I still don't understand where I will see this 10* marking, but I guess I will see that when I actually get out there.

Thanks!

 

[Javi]

great

 

[cntchds]

So I can see what you were talking about where the mark is now. It is pretty difficult to see though, because when my engine surges the beam isn't as consistent.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Yeah it does that, just try to get it as close as possible.

 

[cntchds]

Alright, I'm probably going to be doing it tomorrow, because the clouds came out and started sprinkling while I came inside. I just don't know how close "close enough" is in the eyes of the smog testers.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

For smog, err on the side of more, not less. Just fill up with premium for safety.

 

[cntchds]

The emissions themselves are fine. Just the fact that the timing isn't set to standard specs makes the smog place obligated to fail the car. :blah2:

It runs a bit rough, which I hope is due to the vacuum lines (see other thread), but it picks up well after a run once or twice through the rpm's.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Ah I see... In that case, I forget, but I beleive the factory setting is either 8 or 10 degrees. Here in Ohio, our e-checks are free. If that's the case with you, I'd set it for 9 degrees and see what they say about that.

 

[Javi]

J.R. so more timing more juice? right?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

J.R. so more timing more juice? right?

More timing is more power, more gas mileage, less emissions, and more liekyl to ping, that's why you would run premium once you start to crank it. Of course there is a point of diminishing returns as well.

 

[Javi]

Thanks J.R.

we have no emissions here OK is OK!

 

[cntchds]

It's 45 dollars per test here. Some places give a free retest if you fail, but those are few and far between.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Well then, if you go to our 96-98 section, stickied at the top of the page is a link to an online library with repair info and everything for your car, that should give you the factory timing spec.

 

[Downshift]

For 94-95 the timing is factory at 10 degrees adv. It says so on the hood sticker for smog.

 

[cntchds]

Was going to work on it today, but ended up having to pull apart my intake to replace vacuum hoses instead. I looked down to see if I could mark the 10* mark, but noticed that the mark that I saw before said AIC if I remember correctly. Whatever it was, is that the same as BTDC?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

AIC= After Intake Closing. Yes it's the same, just Ford being Ford.

 

[cntchds]

Awesome, thanks.

 

[cntchds]

Well I worked on the timing today, and though it idles beautifully with the Spout connector out, it still lobes and rattles when I plugged that SPOUT connector back in. What gives? :dunno:

I thought it was only supposed to help maintain the idle if the timing was off. Now it's over compensating even though the timing is spot on. Can anyone help me?