In need of Assistance

Fantom_X7

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Greetings all, I first posted in the "Introductions" forum and was advised to come here . First I'm a proud owner of a SN95(5.0) GT vert 5-speed and it's my first car that I've ever purchased. It had 87k miles on it and currently at 106K miles. Mods: CAI,short shifter, flowmaster exhaust, cowl hood, cobra bodykit . It's my daily for now which explains the few mods. To be completely honest, I never liked mustangs. I always liked and wanted a T/A WS6. To make a long story short, I was in dire need of a car and something about this mustang caught my eye oddly enough. I purchased the car and the car grew on me along with the extremely and surprisingly friendly stang community where in the end has me loving the car . The inner mechanic has sprouted out of me since owning this car and have been doing my own minor maintenance to the car ie: brakes,water pump, plugs, distributor, radiator etc. So I'm not afraid of getting down and dirty.

Now, I have an issue with the vehicle that SOUNDS to be severe but may not be as bad. It all started about a month ago where I was running late to a gig(musician) and was driving the car as if it were stolen. I was doing 135mph for about 10mins on a straight away back road(yeah i know that's reckless but I was in a hurry) and suddenly I get a CEL but it goes away about 15secs later. I noticed that with the car if I made an extremely sharp turn it would do that so I thought it to be nothing. Then it came on again but this time was lit for a good minute so I got nervous but kept at it. Then I noticed that I was dropping speed suddenly and was now at 115mph(pedal is in floor btw). I back off to 65mph after that, when i came to a yield sign thats when I noticed such lack of power and also white smoke and a straining motor. I seen the engine temp was near the Red which didn't usually happen. My chest was pounding in fear. When i reached my destination, i did my business, took a break to check the damage. The car kinda struggled to start but it started, there was a knocking sound along with the motor almost stalling then suddenly jump to 2500RPM to compensate, like a vacuum leak, then went down to 1500. The white smoke was now more evident. Under the hood I noticed oil on the right side of the upper intake as if it were sprayed on and oil drops on the plug wires. There was also a small pool of oil on the lip of the valve cover(driver side) towards the firewall. Other side seems to be clean.I figured it's a head gasket but the knocking is what's got me spooked :confused1:. It doesn't sound like Rod knock due to knock's somewhat high pitch and low volume. I finally got the car home last week(towed). I was thinking burnt valves but I don't know what burnt valves sound like versus a rods :dontknow:. I can take pictures and shoot video to give a better idea if needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

snakebit95

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Sounds like a head gasket. Depending on how bad the gasket was leaking, it may have filled the cylinder with water when you shut it down. Trying to crank the motor again may have bent some valves, bent a rod or a number of other things if there was water in the cylinder. I would pull the plugs and look at them. If any of them are wet or look steam-cleaned, you will have found your problem. You will not know the extent of the damage until you remove the head and start inspecting things (bent valves, piston not coming flush with the deck, busted piston, e.t.c.). Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

95DarkGreenGTS

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Man that suck, But truely yes Built 5.0's are cheap. AND the Mustang is a better car then the T/A IMO. No not as fast (stock) but the the interior does it for me. GM builds the cheapest uncomfortable vehicles. GOOD CHOICE with the Mustang
 

ProKiller

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sounds like classic head gasket problem. not uncommon, tear the top end apart and see whats up.
 

wytstang

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Check your oil for a chocolate milk consistency or your coolant for oil. Your plugs will tell you everything you need to know as well. Like mentioned 5.0's a really cheap to fix and used parts are plentiful. Corral.net classified's are great a lot of good deals just buyer beware on any classified section.
 
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Fantom_X7

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Thanks all. So far this is what I've found after pulling off the top intake. The culprit for the oil on the plugs, side of intake and lip of valve covers seems to be the line located underneath the top manifold. It came off waaay too easily when i pulled it. The oil does have a milk chocolate type texture to it and the coolant did have a bit of psychedelic look but only a little. I'm getting ready to pull the valve cover too check for any other damage. The sum of my fear might be true(rods). But I'll see. I've never seen oil from underneath the car until after this happened.
 
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Fantom_X7

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Threw in the towel for today. Spent most of it looking for tools making the process alot longer than what it needed to be. I got the left valve cover and took pictures of the heads. I'm not sure what is considered bad besides the condition of the oil but it looks okay, but i'm no expert. None of the lifters appeared to be in a stuck position or anything, so I'm like wtf? So I started on the right valve cover and got the bolts loose and broke the seal(btw i noticed some of the bolts on the valve covers were very loose were others took a bit of elbow grease) and could not get the thing off. There were these two long pipes on a brace bolted to the lower intake behind the fuel rail. One pipe i remember leads to the water pump the other one I forgot, but they are sitting right on the valve cover so half of the cover will move(I undid the bolt hold the brace) were the other half is still held down. It was definitely interesting since this is my first time doing open heart surgery to this extent on a car. Any suggestions? http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n46/Church_Boy0487/Car%202/
 

pirotec354

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Those two long tubes on the lower intake are your heater core hoses, they connect to two hoses that lead into the firewall. I wouldnt have suggested taking that bolt out, but when you put it back in make sure you torque it down to spec(23 ft lbs i think). If the smoke was white, then it is definetely coolant burning. If it is black smoke, its getting too much fuel. If it has a tint of blue too it then it would be oil burning. I couldnt really know for sure,by looking at the sparkplugs in the pic,what it could be burning. But another thing is if the smoke smelled kinda sweet, then it pobably was antifreeze. And if it is antifreeze, then its most likely a head gasket. Im dealing with this as of right now.
 
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Fantom_X7

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Okay guys, so I've decided to hell with it and just gonna pull the motor. I let some gear heads take a look at it and they suggested to just get a new longblock. Bottom end might be done for so I say yank it out. :crybaby2:This hurts but I know I'll thank myself in the long run. I'm debating wither to put another 302 back in or just do the 351W swap. I know a 351W wont be all that much better than a 302 unless i get it stroked(or at least that's what I've heard). Also getting the 302 ECU and harness to work with the 351W will be another factor unless I'll have to swap ECU's and harnesses. Thing is I can get the 302 stroked as well but not sure how the performance would stack up against a 351W. Which route has the better price vs performance factor?
 

pirotec354

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you can make all kinds of power with the 302 block, just depends on how much power you want to make and if your keeping it streetable. you can make 4to 5 hundred horsepower pretty easily with the 302 and have it be safe if you know what your doing. I would keep the 302 and maybe stroke it and throw some turbos on it or a supercharger, obviously all the other crap to go with it!!
 

Addermk2

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There seems to be alot of misinformation in your head.

you dont need to stroke a 351w to make good power, you just need a good H/C/I setup.
you DONT need a new wire harness OR ecm to run a 351w. get a larger maf calibrated for 30# injectors, do an H/C/I swap, and run 30# injectors on the motor. IF it is built correctly, you wont have any problems
 

snakebit95

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Do your homework before you jump into the 351W swap. You will need quite a few parts to make it happen including headers, mid-pipe, distributor, intake, oil pan and some other stuff that I have forgotten since doing mine. Not trying to scare you, but the dollars will add-up in a hurry; especially if you are buying a new long-block. If your heads are not damaged and in good shape, you can pick-up a brand new 302 short-block pretty cheap and buy a gasket kit and be back on the road in no-time.
 
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Fantom_X7

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Thanks. After doing much research and price comparisons, I think I'll stick with the 302. I can get a 351W and a 302 for around the same price, however the 351 needs quite a few parts and still considering the fact that I still have to pay to drop the motor put in since I don't have a cherry picker. A 351 would be awesome but I don't have that kinda money. I just want the car running again. Again, the 351 idea was just something to think about since I'm getting the motor pulled. To Snakebite: The heads don't appear to be damaged so it's all good. One question though(if anybody else knows the answer please feel free to answer). The picture showing underneath my top intake there is a kinda thick hose where when i pulled the intake, oil came out. What is this hose called so I can replace it? I would ask the guys at my Autozone but honestly.....they really don't know much of anything.
 

Ryno8705

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You may want to have a machine shop check the deck and heads for trueness. ie: make sure they are not warped in anyway.

The hose you are referring to is part of the PCV system. You are going to want a new PCV valve and screen (in the hole in the back of the intake under where the PCV valve sits). At the same time, pull the rubber grommet from the intake, clean off the old sealant and put new on. I used black gasket maker and it worked fine.
 

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