MyLittlePony
Active Member
It’s time for another round of “Name That Part!”
- Thread starter MyLittlePony
- Start date
Michael Plummer
Active Member
Fuel Vapor Canister Purge Valve: helps your engine burn fuel vapors. It sends your fuel vapors to your charcoal canister so they don't escape into the atmosphere. Issues you may experience with a broken valve: Check engine light, rough idle, decrease fuel mileage, and hard stars. A GOOGLE search may give you a better explanation. I believe these parts are still available online from Rock Auto, Parts Geek, or Late Model Restoration.
FYI: Keep the rubber sleeve from your old one.
I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
FYI: Keep the rubber sleeve from your old one.
I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
shovel
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Adding to that, they help keep your car from smelling like an old lawn mower and in particular reduce the tendency of your garage smelling like an old lawn mower if you park indoors. And of course allow you to burn all the fuel you paid for. It's all positives with no negatives.
Keep in mind that the hose inside the fender usually turns to imaginary toothpaste after a few decades, it's easy to replace you need to remove the passenger wheel and fold down the fender liner and then it's all accessible without much difficulty. The elbow on the canister snaps in and out if you're careful with it, that makes it even easier to replace the hose.
Keep in mind that the hose inside the fender usually turns to imaginary toothpaste after a few decades, it's easy to replace you need to remove the passenger wheel and fold down the fender liner and then it's all accessible without much difficulty. The elbow on the canister snaps in and out if you're careful with it, that makes it even easier to replace the hose.
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
INSIDE the fender? And that’s supposed to go to something I can only see if I remove the liner?
I discovered an elbow on the back of my intake manifold, (finger pointing on it) that has nothing. Maybe it’s supposed to connect to that? Same width. Not sure why it would just randomly decide to leave. Hope it comes back soon.
So I’m pretty sure it’s a T, meaning part of the white plastic vacuumed thing broke off. So one side goes to something in the fender and the other side goes to my lower intake manifold?
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
Ok apparently the black elbow I’m pointing to on the back of the lower intake manifold is a “breather valve” and isn’t supposed to go to anything.
The now identified purge valve also apparently isn’t supposed to go to anything either. My husband says it goes to the blocked off throttle body, but it’s been blocked off for 15 years, so whatever.
The now identified purge valve also apparently isn’t supposed to go to anything either. My husband says it goes to the blocked off throttle body, but it’s been blocked off for 15 years, so whatever.
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95GTS5L
Member
As part of my EGR delete you need to cover the tube ends of that piece with PCV blocking plugs and keep the unit plugged in to avoid a check engine light along with other measures. I extended the harness and placed it in a box with the other unit in which i secured its plunger half way. This is how i got my check engine light to stay off. When i get my Terminator X stuff in perhaps i can remove said stuff. See pic when i cleaned up my harness i placed both parts in grey box tucked away in front of the strut tower pass. Side.
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
Well I guess I just royally screwed up my car!
Car has been getting worse and worse gas mileage through the years and would smell like it was running a bit rich. It would backfire upon acceleration, and given an approaching massive late mustang event, where everyone’s going to be revving through the speedway tunnel to see who’s the loudest, I didn’t want to embarrass myself backfiring like a fool who doesn’t care about her car. So I decided that it was probably time to replace my fuel injectors since the 1986 ones that came with the 5.0 block were merely “rebuilt” by my husband back in 2007.
I assumed that this would be the miracle cure, as practically everything else has been replaced. I don’t really get CELs. The car has a chip, which would occasionally throw a code for a Converter clutch Lock-Up error, as the automatic transmission has a shift kit. Historically, I typically get a right side lean but sometimes left too, but ONLY if the SPOUT connector is disconnected, telling me this, not an actual CEL. O2 sensors have been replaced multiple times. So it’s not that.
Anyway. So new fuel injectors. I patiently waited a day for RTV to dry before starting it up. It idles like absolute crap!!! I figure it’s just learning, remapping itself and then it seems normal, but smells like it’s just pouring gas! No fuel seems to be leaking anywhere though. That’s what lead to me looking around for things that might be disconnected.
Anyway. I call it a night, and decide to give it a test drive just now. Car behaves exactly as it did the very first time I tried this, even thought last night, after it learned, and was a little warmer, it would start back up just fine. It was surging for a minute or two at idle, then dies. I then decide to drive it anyway, and instead of one backfire, I have SEVERAL!!!
After only driving a mile, I pull into the garage, and notice a different smell. I look under the car, and the cats are glowing red in the middle!!!! No CEL, and I can’t even get it to flash the basic 511 codes. Now I have a car that I can’t drive, and I have absolutely no idea what’s wrong with it, other than the fuel injectors, which clearly were much nicer than what came off of it!
What would cause the SPOUT not to flash any CEL codes?
Car has been getting worse and worse gas mileage through the years and would smell like it was running a bit rich. It would backfire upon acceleration, and given an approaching massive late mustang event, where everyone’s going to be revving through the speedway tunnel to see who’s the loudest, I didn’t want to embarrass myself backfiring like a fool who doesn’t care about her car. So I decided that it was probably time to replace my fuel injectors since the 1986 ones that came with the 5.0 block were merely “rebuilt” by my husband back in 2007.
I assumed that this would be the miracle cure, as practically everything else has been replaced. I don’t really get CELs. The car has a chip, which would occasionally throw a code for a Converter clutch Lock-Up error, as the automatic transmission has a shift kit. Historically, I typically get a right side lean but sometimes left too, but ONLY if the SPOUT connector is disconnected, telling me this, not an actual CEL. O2 sensors have been replaced multiple times. So it’s not that.
Anyway. So new fuel injectors. I patiently waited a day for RTV to dry before starting it up. It idles like absolute crap!!! I figure it’s just learning, remapping itself and then it seems normal, but smells like it’s just pouring gas! No fuel seems to be leaking anywhere though. That’s what lead to me looking around for things that might be disconnected.
Anyway. I call it a night, and decide to give it a test drive just now. Car behaves exactly as it did the very first time I tried this, even thought last night, after it learned, and was a little warmer, it would start back up just fine. It was surging for a minute or two at idle, then dies. I then decide to drive it anyway, and instead of one backfire, I have SEVERAL!!!
After only driving a mile, I pull into the garage, and notice a different smell. I look under the car, and the cats are glowing red in the middle!!!! No CEL, and I can’t even get it to flash the basic 511 codes. Now I have a car that I can’t drive, and I have absolutely no idea what’s wrong with it, other than the fuel injectors, which clearly were much nicer than what came off of it!
What would cause the SPOUT not to flash any CEL codes?
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
So after brand new fuel injectors:
The injectors you installed, were they Ford injectors rated at the same flow as the injectors that came out? And where did the injectors come from?
Backfires could be lean or rich, have you checked fuel pressure with the engine running? A friend of mine had a v6 that behaved similar to this with glowing cats and all. His turned out to have a bad fuel pump.
Backfires could be lean or rich, have you checked fuel pressure with the engine running? A friend of mine had a v6 that behaved similar to this with glowing cats and all. His turned out to have a bad fuel pump.
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
These are them:
8x 19lb Fuel Injectors 4-Hole For Bosch For Gt 5.0 4.6 1986-2002 Ford Mustang | eBay
This sale is for a complete set of 8 fuel injectors (All tested by ASNU machine ). · Connector Type: Bosch EV1. 1993-1994 Ford Bronco 5.0L V8. 1996-2004 Ford Mustang 4.6L V8. 1993-1994 Ford Bronco 5.8L V8.
www.ebay.com
The price seemed suspicious to me. I mean, if that’s how much they cost, why did we buy the stupid rebuilt kit in the first place? But my husband assured me that they were good. After all, they’re “Bosch.” I guess everything’s made in China now.
shovel
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To be clear the purge control valve, the positive crankcase ventilation system and EGR system are not in any way related to or dependent upon each other.
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
To add on to the above post, that port you were pointing at in one of your pictures should have a vacuum line on it, presumably the one for the purge valve. Id buy a new one and some vacuum hose. With a vacuum leak from that open port I’m not surprised it doesn’t run right.
I would be very suspicious of those injectors. I recently built an engine for a fella, later on he had injector issues. I told him to buy GOOD factory injectors, he bought the cheapest ones he could find on eBay. The truck ran worse and worse until one day I put a set of factory ford coyote injectors in it, changed the tune, and it magically ran like a champ. I don’t mean to get off in the weeds, but the cheap injectors always scare me.These are them:
8x 19lb Fuel Injectors 4-Hole For Bosch For Gt 5.0 4.6 1986-2002 Ford Mustang | eBay
This sale is for a complete set of 8 fuel injectors (All tested by ASNU machine ). · Connector Type: Bosch EV1. 1993-1994 Ford Bronco 5.0L V8. 1996-2004 Ford Mustang 4.6L V8. 1993-1994 Ford Bronco 5.8L V8.www.ebay.com
The price seemed suspicious to me. I mean, if that’s how much they cost, why did we buy the stupid rebuilt kit in the first place? But my husband assured me that they were good. After all, they’re “Bosch.” I guess everything’s made in China now.
Ah yes, the hunting idle of a 5.0L.
I too would be very suspicious of those injectors, especially at that price. I'd start with a set of injectors from a reputable dealer - quick glance at RockAuto has Bosch for $22/ea or Standard for $28/ea. LMR sells them for about $220 a set. I'm all for saving a buck, but I'd rather buy known good used injectors from someone off the forums than "new" from somewhere like eBay.
The other thing to consider would be a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can cause a hunting idle as the IAC tries to keep it running with the leak and could cause a lean condition if it was able to pull enough air from that leak - but I'd still lean more towards junky injectors.
I too would be very suspicious of those injectors, especially at that price. I'd start with a set of injectors from a reputable dealer - quick glance at RockAuto has Bosch for $22/ea or Standard for $28/ea. LMR sells them for about $220 a set. I'm all for saving a buck, but I'd rather buy known good used injectors from someone off the forums than "new" from somewhere like eBay.
The other thing to consider would be a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can cause a hunting idle as the IAC tries to keep it running with the leak and could cause a lean condition if it was able to pull enough air from that leak - but I'd still lean more towards junky injectors.
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
Will the RockAuto Bosch work in my car? It looks very different than my original 86 injectors and the knockoffs.
1994 FORD MUSTANG 5.0L V8 Fuel Injector | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
What was the LMR set? Was these them?
I think that would require a new MAF, or a chip tube, because I think I need 19 PSI
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95GTS5L
Member
Look like type 3 EV1 86-95. Black is 19 lb standard but the Bosch which i had a set before following a learning experience using crappy ebay ones worked awesome and unlike the original 1 hole spray pattern have 4. Those yellow look like an old set of 30's. Bet if you bench tested them you will find they may fail which indicates no good. Bought a used set of 30's from a so called reputable fellow in Edmonton and only 5 of the 8 passed the click test. I cannot remember exactly the procedure but a couple aligator clips and battery power is all that is needed. Ended up getting new ones from LMR and matching maff back then.
ttocs
Post Whore
if you smell fuel after the injectors then something is wrong. Did you put a dab of oil on the o-rings prior to seating them? The pic you showed the bottom o-ring looks like it is either twisted, or that it is torn which can happen if you push them/seat them with no oil/liquid to help lubricate them going in.
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
So, I’m thinking that if I end up just buying new injectors, I may as well upgrade from the 19 to the 24. I’m liking these pretty pink ones (though they probably won’t stay that color for long)
Will these work if I get a new MAF, or will I need a chip tune?
Also with my current “CAI,” which MAF should I buy? The cheap shiny one that’s 80mm
Or the much more expensive black 75mm that actually looks like a traditional MAR sensor?
Or would you recommend something else entirely?
RAU03MACH
Legend
my question is
are you doing this your self
might need help someone qualified to guide
that hose is in the fender purge solenoid , and it is broken on other side , and you need to see witch way flow is pulling vacuum, it goes to the back of upper intake
are you doing this your self
might need help someone qualified to guide
that hose is in the fender purge solenoid , and it is broken on other side , and you need to see witch way flow is pulling vacuum, it goes to the back of upper intake
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MyLittlePony
Active Member
No oil. I think one or two may have a little used oil from my dip stick, but definitely not any serious lubrication. First timer, so forgive me. It didn’t come with any instructions, so I figured as long as they’re in, why give them a reason to pop out?
