Listen to my Idle

1Broderick

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So my '95 has had a good amount of problems, it's actually in a shop right now haha.

One thing that has always bothered me since I bought it was the way it idled.

Recently it got much worse, I would start it up and the check engine light would flash 3-4 times, then engine revs to 2k then cuts off.

Other times I would start it up and it would just struggle to idle, going between 500-1000rpm, after it calmed down it would still go between 500-750 and shake the car.

Here's the idle
https://vimeo.com/156448242

Then I...

- Cleaned out the throttle body (as much as I could without without taking it off)

- Cleaned the MAF sensor

- Cleaned out the IAC

- Installed new MSD Cap/Rotor

Afterwards I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and it idles like this...

https://vimeo.com/156449160

https://vimeo.com/156449272

It still sounds like crap to me.
The man I bought it from claims that it has a "mild cam". But that doesn't really sound like a cam to me, but I don't know everything so that's why I'm here

So does anyone know what it should really sound like?


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cameron57

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Is the firing order correct it sounds like a miss or exhaust leak hard to tell in a video. Lol plus im on my phone. Check firing order you could replace plugs and plug wires.

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TrickVert

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Definitely doesn't sound right. How does it drive?

Two wires swapped and/or a bad plug (or plugs) could be the culprit. If those are good, have you checked the timing and verified the balancer hasn't spun?

Andy
 
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1Broderick

1Broderick

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Thanks for the replies, I had triple checked when I put the wires on, recently the timing was done and it was still bad. Got a 2013 Veloster (good mpg, kinda fun, 6-speed), so I'm trying to sell the stang now :/ . I'm sure I'll end up with another eventually.
 

TrickVert

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If "the timing was done," but the balancer wasn't checked, it could still be out of whack. Deteriorated rubber and the balancer being spun is a common occurrence on these 20+-year-old cars. You could also have a fouled plug (or plugs), or the distributor could have jumped. Also note that 500-750 RPM with a cam can be too low for a stable idle. Sometimes it takes 850 or so to smooth things out.

On a side note, it always surprises me when someone just gives up and sells a car due to (sometimes easily repairable) problems like this. (No disrespect intended, just an observation.) Glad you found something else you like, though. :thumbsup:
 
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1Broderick

1Broderick

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Haha, I'm not offended at all. My parents are wanting me to sell the car because I don't need two, but I'm leaning towards keeping it actually.

If I can fix the idle and this knocking sound that I'm hearing when I lie underneath then I think I will keep it.

I definitely do think it has an exhaust leak

Brace yourself...
(Most likely) Dumb questions starting now:

1) How can I check the balancer?

2) Should I just replace all the plugs and wires?

3) It idles at about 1k now, but after a while (5-10 minutes) it drops back to its rough low idle, what could that be?

4) When I'm driving and push in the clutch or put it in neutral (when I'm approaching a red light for instance) the idle rises and falls. I assume that's a computer problem not mechanical right?

Thanks for all the help, I really really don't want to sell this car. Now that I have another car to drive to work/school, I can spend time tinkering and messing with this car, worry free.




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1Broderick

1Broderick

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I've cleaned the IAC, and I attempted to check it with a multimeter and I think it's working


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