Listen to my Idle

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by 1Broderick, Feb 23, 2016.

  1. 1Broderick

    1Broderick New Member

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    So my '95 has had a good amount of problems, it's actually in a shop right now haha.

    One thing that has always bothered me since I bought it was the way it idled.

    Recently it got much worse, I would start it up and the check engine light would flash 3-4 times, then engine revs to 2k then cuts off.

    Other times I would start it up and it would just struggle to idle, going between 500-1000rpm, after it calmed down it would still go between 500-750 and shake the car.

    Here's the idle
    https://vimeo.com/156448242

    Then I...

    - Cleaned out the throttle body (as much as I could without without taking it off)

    - Cleaned the MAF sensor

    - Cleaned out the IAC

    - Installed new MSD Cap/Rotor

    Afterwards I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and it idles like this...

    https://vimeo.com/156449160

    https://vimeo.com/156449272

    It still sounds like crap to me.
    The man I bought it from claims that it has a "mild cam". But that doesn't really sound like a cam to me, but I don't know everything so that's why I'm here

    So does anyone know what it should really sound like?


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  2. cameron57

    cameron57 Active Member

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    Is the firing order correct it sounds like a miss or exhaust leak hard to tell in a video. Lol plus im on my phone. Check firing order you could replace plugs and plug wires.

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  3. TrickVert

    TrickVert Member

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    Definitely doesn't sound right. How does it drive?

    Two wires swapped and/or a bad plug (or plugs) could be the culprit. If those are good, have you checked the timing and verified the balancer hasn't spun?

    Andy
     
  4. 1Broderick

    1Broderick New Member

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    Thanks for the replies, I had triple checked when I put the wires on, recently the timing was done and it was still bad. Got a 2013 Veloster (good mpg, kinda fun, 6-speed), so I'm trying to sell the stang now :/ . I'm sure I'll end up with another eventually.
     
  5. TrickVert

    TrickVert Member

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    If "the timing was done," but the balancer wasn't checked, it could still be out of whack. Deteriorated rubber and the balancer being spun is a common occurrence on these 20+-year-old cars. You could also have a fouled plug (or plugs), or the distributor could have jumped. Also note that 500-750 RPM with a cam can be too low for a stable idle. Sometimes it takes 850 or so to smooth things out.

    On a side note, it always surprises me when someone just gives up and sells a car due to (sometimes easily repairable) problems like this. (No disrespect intended, just an observation.) Glad you found something else you like, though. :thumbsup:
     
  6. 1Broderick

    1Broderick New Member

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    Haha, I'm not offended at all. My parents are wanting me to sell the car because I don't need two, but I'm leaning towards keeping it actually.

    If I can fix the idle and this knocking sound that I'm hearing when I lie underneath then I think I will keep it.

    I definitely do think it has an exhaust leak

    Brace yourself...
    (Most likely) Dumb questions starting now:

    1) How can I check the balancer?

    2) Should I just replace all the plugs and wires?

    3) It idles at about 1k now, but after a while (5-10 minutes) it drops back to its rough low idle, what could that be?

    4) When I'm driving and push in the clutch or put it in neutral (when I'm approaching a red light for instance) the idle rises and falls. I assume that's a computer problem not mechanical right?

    Thanks for all the help, I really really don't want to sell this car. Now that I have another car to drive to work/school, I can spend time tinkering and messing with this car, worry free.




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  7. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    Idle air controller perhaps?
     
  8. 1Broderick

    1Broderick New Member

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    I've cleaned the IAC, and I attempted to check it with a multimeter and I think it's working


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