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Discussion in '96-04 - 4V Specific' started by blake_colvin, Jul 21, 2009.
makes sense to me..
Don't know if he's on this forum but if you're talking intakes and cams, look up NASVT on modularfords forum. He's the man.
He's not. A few of us have already mentioned him, he's the man for B headed stuff. Nazman is equally good for the 99+ C headed stuff.
cool maybe we can get that guy to come make a sticky and maybe the c headed guy can chime in with some experiance
i had a procharger on my 97 cobra, it was 430 to the wheels and it was a daily driver, with stock bottom end..it was awesome, but i had tuning issues to i took it off, sold it and threw a 100 shot on it..i'd like to see someone do all motor...but it'd be $$
Here is what I ended up with. NA Stocker & the valve covers have never been removed.
thats decent numbers and a great track time for the power..
you mind posting a mod list and a weight reduction list lol i know thats not a 3600 lb car
Actually at 3560 it will go 12 teens. 6500 rpm launch 6800 rpm power shifts.
The track times in sig are at 3280. car still has the stock "K" mem. and is wingless, AC is gone, for that 11.66 run complete rear seat was out, front seat out, mach 460 rear deck out, spare and jack out, wiper blades only out. I weight 225. battery in trunk & light weight rims 1/4 tank of gas really that is about it. Launch 7000 rpm 6800 rpm power shifts. the 11.66 run was done on -500 ft below sea level day @ 46 degrees F. (1.51 60 ft. time)
EDIT: forgot to mention I took out the front and rear bumper supports. front 16.5 pounds and the rear is 23 pounds.
Now everything is back in seats, stereo, full tank of gas, spare jack. AC is still out and not going back in. Car still runs good at the track and has no problems running 12.30's with out putting it on kill. Meaning 4500 launch 6800 shifts with a 3-4 shift at 6000. See you can still have fun and keep your car a stocker because all that stuff bolts right back in when you get home. Now I just leave it this way. I got tired of bolting the stuff in and out all the time or maybe I'm just getting old. Still love to race and the car is clean and streetable 41000 miles on it now. Valve covers NEVER been removed.
I think a great start for these cars (if you want to stay N/A stocker) is a shortrunner intake, IMRC Deletes, UPR Big Mouth filter, Fuel pressure regulator, 4.56 gears, UD pulleys, full exhaust w/ no cats, a good tune to tie it all together, a good clutch, short throw shifter, trans, diff and axles, slicks and skinneys on 15" rims, line lock and 2 step, some good adjustable suspension parts that will give you a happy medium for street and strip (see below), weld the torque boxes and axle tubes, do not forget the full length subframe connectors and the caster camber plates. Then some minor weight reduction that you can live with. Easy low 12 to high 11 second "B" headed stock motored Cobra that will be reliable and streetable. No need for a trailer just throw the slicks in the back seat and head to the track.
Here ya go! Thank god for copy & Paste.
1998 SVT MUSTANG COBRA
Tokico Illumina 5 way Adjustable Drag Strut/ UPR Coil-Over Kit 150 Rate Springs
Fox Body A-Arms/ Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates/ Stock "K" Member
Baseline Suspensions Upper Control Arms (Street Launch PL#1)
J&M (Pro-Race) Weight Jacker Lower Control Arms
Tokico Illumina 5 Way Adjustable Shocks/ Stock Springs
UPR Anti-Roll Bar/ Kenny Brown Super Subframe Connectors
Watson's Mid-Length Proto-Type Stainless Headers 1 5/8" Individual Tubes(3" Collector)
Dr. Gas Exhaust Components Off Road "X" Pipe (2.5") & DynoMax Bullet Mufflers (2.5")
4" Intake Pipe/ UPR Big Mouth Filter/ Pro-M 80mm Plastic MAF
FRPP Oval Bore Throttle Body/ Paul's High Performance Modified Stock Intake (Stage 2)
FRPP IMRC Deletes/ ASP UnderDrive Pulleys/ FRPP AC Delete Pulley/ Poly Motor Mounts
NGK#3951 Spark Plugs/ MSD 8.5mm Wires/ MSD DIS-4 Ignition Box w/ Tach Adaptors
Kirban Fuel Regulator/ 170 Liter FRPP fuel Pump/ JMS Auto Logic Chip (Mail Order)
5w30 Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil
Tremec 3550 TKO/ Paul's High Performance TKO Adaptor/ Poly Transmission Mount
Lakewood Steel Bell Housing/ D&D SHD 11"Clutch Kit/ Kirban Short Throw Shifter
Hurst Comp Stick Handle/ Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel/ FRPP Aluminum Drive Shaft
GM Synchromesh Transmission fluid
Stock 8.8 Housing/ FRPP 4.56 Ring & Pinion/ Detroit Trac-Tech "C" Locker/ ARP Stud Kit
Moser 31 Spline Axels/ TA Rear-End Girdle/ CHE Axle Brace/ Valvoline 85-140 Gear Oil
Rims & Tires:
Bogart 15"x3.5" (1 1/4"Welded Spacer) Drag Stars/ Kuhmo 758 Radial Tires 165/80r15
Bogart 9.25"x15" (6" Back Space) Drag Stars/ Mickey Thompson ET Drags 26"x10"x15"
Auto Meter Shift Light/ Taylor Battery box Relocate Kit/ Flamming River Cut Off Switch
Hurst Line Lock/ Steeda Racing Pedals/ G-Force Jacket/ Pyrotec Helmet
318 Rear Wheel [email protected] RPM's / 290 Rear Wheel [email protected] RPM's
[email protected] RPM Off 2 Step/Shift all [email protected] RPM/Cross Finish Line @ 6750 RPM
1/4 mile time [email protected] with a 1.51 60 ft. time/ 49 Degrees -500ft. Below Sea Level
Weight with Driver 3285 Lbs.
wow guy it seems as if you have perfected your car lol great job at it but your elevation doesnt hurt either
im taking out my
gut trunk (spare, jack, carpet, plastic)
mach amp rack
rear bumper support
maybe front bumper support
and maybe the side impact beams in doors
i dont drive my car much and i have really good insurance so i can afford to play with the safety features
i think my car ball parks 3550 with me in it and 1/8 to 1/4 tank full weight
so im hopeing to get the car down to 3300 with me in it and a 1/4 to 1/2 tank its going to be hard but i think its possible and im keeping a/c and both front seats.. and i doubt i do much suspension work
if anything some carbon fiber parts like hood and trunk to help take off another 40 or so in the long run and a couple months ago my car put down 406whp and like 400wtq at about 95 degrees and 60%humidity
ive slaughterd a 430whp on motor gto but on a 100 shot he only got me by a couple cars.. everyone says my car runs strong for 406whp lol i agree but its still not fast enuf especially on the street so im just tryin to shave 100-150lbs for that extra car lenght
blake...CF parts aren't going to net much gain for the money spent. and the impact beams in the doors don't come out without first cutting out the doorskins, so that means no doorpanels, permanently.
oh dang wow glad you chimed in with that one lol now im not even going to bother with the impact beams in the doors lol
and i guess your right about the cf.. i can get some lightweight suspension parts for a grand and prob save more weight than i would with a cf hood and trunk..
I have had close to 10 years to get it this way. Bought it new in march 1998.
Best of luck with your quest.
The extra front seat weights 40 pounds and the AC is 35 pounds. Yeah your looking at around 3350 depending on how much you weight.
My car is a slow car on the street. These N/A stockers need high rpm launches (6500+) and slicks to go 11's
You will at least need to lower the rear of your car 3/4" to get the suspension geometry in the ball park to hook it up at the track. Thats why I like weight jackers and some sort of adjustable shock back there. I understand you cant do everything all at once but spend your money wisely. The CF hood and trunk not needed till the very end if needed at all. If you plan on using slicks you will need parts that will allow you make more than 10 passes before something breaks. That is the part that will cost $2500 minimum for no extra power.
I think those door supports only weight 7 pounds each. I would pass on that.
Right well im still up in the air but as of right now im going to finsish taking out all the stuff i can live without and then i will go with some 31 spline axels and a trac loc..
im not really trying to be fast at the track just on the street.. so any little bit helps
i have some worn out mt's with 1/4 or maybe less life left in them im going to try out on the street whenever it stops raining and im hopeing i can get some 0mph- and some 20mph- races done but im not to sure because as you said i dont want to break anything.. im hopeing after i do the rear end by then i can stumble apon some termi internals and then build my motor and up the boost and either then go auto or re-build my t45
Impressive SVT CAMR!