-:Need Battery/Starter Help:-

[whiplash473]

So I have tried battery positive to fuse box..battery positive to starter..battery grounded

Have tried battery positive to fuse box..fuse box to solenoid..battery grounded

I've tried another variation or two an I'm seriously stuck here..and I'm having a surprising amount of trouble finding things online for it..hope someone can help me out here..thanks


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[DeepList]

What's the issue that you're having? The starter doesn't want to work?

Have you tried testing it OFF the car?

 

[whiplash473]

Ignition cylinder is not engaging the starter (at all)..and now I'm having a problem starting it manually.......and yeah I tested it off the car..seems fine


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[DeepList]

I am going to assume the battery is good and has a charge...

Is your ignition switch (on the steering column) okay?
Other than that... the CCRM, maybe?

 

[whiplash473]

Battery is good and has charge..I'm using everything I was using before the rebuild which was working fine before..so I'm assuming its still fine


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[toyman]

So I have tried battery positive to fuse box..battery positive to starter..battery grounded

Have tried battery positive to fuse box..fuse box to solenoid..battery grounded

I've tried another variation or two an I'm seriously stuck here..and I'm having a surprising amount of trouble finding things online for it..hope someone can help me out here..thanks


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

What exactly do you mean by "battery grounded"? The battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds are critical and should be a minimum 2 gauge. Are you getting power to the starter and the starter solenoid? Do you have 12 volts from the starter power side to the engine. Sounds like you don't but your description seems to indicate that you have.

 

[whiplash473]

I haw a 4ga negative from the battery to a bell housing bolt and then a grounding strap from the block to the frame......I haven't taken a volt meter to anything yet but I'm getting power as the test light shows..just don't know how much

I have a positive to the solenoid and a cable from the solenoid to the fuse box harness


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[Corndiddly]

Test lights don't always work. They can light up with 6v and that won't be enough to start correctly.

 

[Musturd]

Positive wire on my setup goes to fuse box then a wire goes from fuse box to starter I believe . The battery ground is to the rear tail section and I'm running 2 chassis to engine grounds up front

 

[whiplash473]

Test lights don't always work. They can light up with 6v and that won't be enough to start correctly.

Yeah that's why I gotta get a volt meter on it..but at least I know I'm getting power to where I've tested

Positive wire on my setup goes to fuse box then a wire goes from fuse box to starter I believe . The battery ground is to the rear tail section and I'm running 2 chassis to engine grounds up front

Pretty similar to what I've got going so idk..I'm losing it over this fcuking thing so I took the night off

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[RichV]

Your starter should have 2 wires. The big lug is a constant hot from the battery, the small wire is a triggered hot from the key. If you have both those signals, you either have a bad ground (should register 0 OHMS when you go from battery negative to engine block), bad starter, or your battery is dead/low. If it's the battery you may hear a click when the starter tries to engage followed by a dimming of interior lights and radio.

Check your wire from the battery to the starter, maybe you have a bad connection or have a bad terminal on the starter.

 

[whiplash473]

So right now I have the battery negative grounded straight to the frame rail..the positive going to the fuse box and also a positive going from the battery to the starter..with the fuse box intermediate cable from the fuse box to the starter solenoid..I also have the block grounded to the frame rail..I'm really confused as to what is wrong at the moment


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[RichV]

Check fuses?

ignition switch?

 

[whiplash473]

Checked every fuse and relay under the hood..ignition switch was perfectly fine when the car went into storage so I'm assuming its fine


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[ster302]

So you don't hear anything when the key is turned? First thing I would check is the small wire to the starter, make sure it has 12v when the key is in start. It sounds like you've tried different power and ground combinations so I doubt that's your issue. It sounds more like there's no signal from the ignition switch to me.

 

[RichV]

On the bottom image, the top terminal goes to the battery. Large gauge wire, constant 12v. The small terminal is your trigger, should only have 12v when the key is in the 'start' position. If you have both of those, problem has to be the starter (assuming grounds/battery are good). The lower large terminal is permanent into the starter motor, starter should engage if you put 12v on it without the trigger signal. I bet you just have a bad solenoid.

 

[toyman]

Bad solenoid as noted or a battery that while reading 12v won't deliver the cranking amps needed under load.

To the OP. You should change the battery to chassis and make that battery to engine and then engine to chassis minimum 2 gauge cables. The ground path to the starter is the engine back to the battery. Right now you have the ground from the starter to engine to chassis to battery. If everything is solid that works but you would be better off if it's changed.

 

[rz5.0]

Try grounding your starter straight to the battery..