Need EGR advice

[Dugzy33]

Hey New guy here..
Did some searching but didn't find anything like I wanted.
Just looking for advice on R&R of my EGR valve.
I'm going to pick up the new one right now.
The old one looks really rusty.
Anything I should look out for?
BTW my ride is a 1995 GT-S 5spd no ac
Pics on this thread if you want to see her. http://sn95forums.com/showthread.php?58734-I-m-New-and-so-is-my-GT-S
Thanks,
Doug

 

[ttocs]

mine is extra crusty and in need of attention...

 

[Musturd]

Mine is extra gone

 

[Musturd]

Ain't nobody got time for that

 

[Steve-Oh]

Sent from Space

 

[Chibbzee]

[MENTION=14656]Musturd[/MENTION] How does one get rid of said EGR?

Sent from my Whippled S2

 

[Musturd]

Make block off plate and cap off egr tube on header I deleted all smog associated equipment off my car and still pass emissions

 

[MustangChris]

[MENTION=18327]Dugzy33[/MENTION]

I suggest removing it, buffing it, and having it powder coated. I'm one of those people who keeps their emissions systems in tact.

If it's hard on the eyes, get it coated ;-) They have chrome-like powder coating as well as every color under the sun.

For anything exhaust related I always suggest ceramic coating inside and out. It helps keep the engine bay temps lower as well as increases the flow of the exhaust.

 

[Dugzy33]

I guess I should have given more background.
Just bought the car.
Checked the codes and it has an egr code 332.
Bought new egr because i plan on putting headers on and adjusting the timing and calling a day with the mods until I decide what my future plans are.
she runs good idles good but seems to run a little rich (smell and exhaust)
Check engine light comes on after a min or two of driving stays on until i shut it off.
upon every start up not on for a couple of min then back on.
btw the 332 code is a stored code.
oh and I replaced both o2 sensors because the p/o already bought ford sensors.
only mods are k&n filter h pipe with 2 cats and flow-master cat back.
Anyway are these easy to take off is what I was getting at.
Any and all comments are welcome...
BTW love the "time for that " lady in the top hat!!
Thanks,
Doug

 

[MustangChris]

hmmm.

do the 94/95 mustangs have the EVR solenoid?

Id suggest cleaning the EVR solenoid (if applicable), inspecting vacuum lines to the intake, replace your EGR, and cleaning the throttle body. If you've got MAF cleaner, clean the MAF while you're there.... it wont hurt anything and might give you a bump in MPG if its dirty at all.

 

[Rallim]

My EGR valve is completely failed from since I've owned the car, and I"ve never gotten a rich running or gas smell.

 

[95-stang]

My EGR has been removed and "tuned out" using Moates Quarterhorse.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

If I get another 94/95 car I'll be doing my own tuning on a QH and remove the external EGR.

As far as changing it... LOTS of PB blaster on where it attaches to the passenger's side header the night before, then torch the eff out of it before you take it off. Get the biggest wrench you can in there (I used a big crescent) and lefty loosey that sucker out of there. Then unbolt the valve itself from the intake. Make sure you go buy a EGR gasket beforehand as it sucks to forget about that and then have to borrow someone's car to go get another one if your stang is your only car.

There are also plugs that "fool" the computer that you can plug into where the EGR plugs in but I've heard mixed reviews on them. With that said, I had a functioning EGR on my car because I didn't feel like messing with it and my MAC longtubes had the provision for it. But yes I do recommend getting ANY exhaust product ceramic coated inside/out by a local shop. Honestly the only ceramic coating "from the factory" that has ever been any good that I've bought was the FMS shorties I got for my 94/95 back in 2003 from GEFracing. Those were the days... $300 for fully ceramic 94/95 specific shorties and $400 for the Bullitt suspension and the FR500 steering wheel was still being made...