well i have an idea of whats wrong but im still not 100% sure.. so last night im driving and i hear this loud clicking noise.. it increases with higher rpms decreases with lower.. so i immediately turn the car around to take it home and i drive home (1/2 mile) driving 10mph trying to keep my rpms down and when i get home i look and it sounds like its coming from one of the heads..i cant quite pinpoint it.. im thinking maybe a bent valve.. its just a loud clicking noise and its definitely coming from the motor :crybaby2: does it sound like it might be a valve? or could it be something else?
need some help
- Thread starter MrNiceGuy
- Start date
glittle75
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could be a number of things.
when does it "click", all the time, when the engine is under load? only on acceleration? all these things will help determine what it is.
also, grab a long screwdriver, or a brromhandle, or something. put one end to your ear, and feel around on the motor while its running with the other end, will help alot in pinpointing your click, move it around on the heads, injectors (sometimes they click or tick pretty noticably) timing cover, everywhere, just make sure to watch out for the belt, dont wanna stick a screwdriver or whatever in it.
when does it "click", all the time, when the engine is under load? only on acceleration? all these things will help determine what it is.
also, grab a long screwdriver, or a brromhandle, or something. put one end to your ear, and feel around on the motor while its running with the other end, will help alot in pinpointing your click, move it around on the heads, injectors (sometimes they click or tick pretty noticably) timing cover, everywhere, just make sure to watch out for the belt, dont wanna stick a screwdriver or whatever in it.
its while im accelerating mainly.. cant hear it to well in 5th gear cruising (but i have no cats and dumps so its hard to hear anything) but i can hear it better when im in the car.. it sounds like its under the dash when im inside but when i come out it sounds like its coming from the driverside head.. its really bugging me i dont even know what i need to fix right now..
MustangChris
Mythic Level
id go to autozone and get a stethescope... they are like $5.00.... they help seal your ears so you can hear better...
It definantly sounds like valve train to me... as said before, listen to all 8 injectors and replace any that are EXTREAMLY loud. (they are supposed to click, but not noticeably)
also, listen to the valve cover (valve train,) the heads when possible (valve train,) the spark plugs (they click before the motor desides to shoot them out,) and maybe even your headers...
I suggest chaning your oil, running injector cleaner in the gas, and checking all the spark plugs to ensure they are in the motor properly.
It definantly sounds like valve train to me... as said before, listen to all 8 injectors and replace any that are EXTREAMLY loud. (they are supposed to click, but not noticeably)
also, listen to the valve cover (valve train,) the heads when possible (valve train,) the spark plugs (they click before the motor desides to shoot them out,) and maybe even your headers...
I suggest chaning your oil, running injector cleaner in the gas, and checking all the spark plugs to ensure they are in the motor properly.
Willis_98GT
Well-Known Member
pull the valve cover and report back!
DropTopPony
Post Whore
check your spark plugs for a loose one.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
yes. very much so. check those first... if you blow a plug out you have to get the threading re done... aside from the trouble of somehow getting it to a shop, it will cost $100+ to get a single spark plug hole re-done. My head guy charges $175.00 per hole if the heads are on the car... or $100.00 for the entire head if they are off the car.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
ouchhhh....
i think i found my motor!
Sean Hyland shortblock complete running motor aluminum block rated at 1000hp
Manley Dish Pistons
Cobra Steel Crank
Manley Rods
Ported Heads
Stage 3 Blower Cams
Motor is complete and running in the car still, has under 5,000 miles..Comes with a P1sc that is on the car also, making 540rwhp on 12LBS
with a tko600 with a mcleod clutch.. hopefully i can go check it out and pick it up next week.. it has an EXCELLENT price..
Sean Hyland shortblock complete running motor aluminum block rated at 1000hp
Manley Dish Pistons
Cobra Steel Crank
Manley Rods
Ported Heads
Stage 3 Blower Cams
Motor is complete and running in the car still, has under 5,000 miles..Comes with a P1sc that is on the car also, making 540rwhp on 12LBS
with a tko600 with a mcleod clutch.. hopefully i can go check it out and pick it up next week.. it has an EXCELLENT price..
Willis_98GT
Well-Known Member
mmm, thats some rear snapping power, love it!
uh i have two options for a motor.. thats one the other one is a completely rebuilt 4.6 with a teskid block, custom cams, ported PI heads/intake, my bolt-ons.. for 3500 installed.. it would be a 0 mileage motor from a trusted builder.. and its cheaper.. i would also be getting it tuned on a 100 shot
decisions decisions..
decisions decisions..
MustangChris
Mythic Level
very nice! 
well i will be there helping him.. i've never built a motor myself so im going to be helping/learning.. but i deploy the day after christmas.. so im just gonna go the conservative route for now.. and when i come back i will throw some money at her..
i've been saving up, being deployed and all defiantly has it's advantages but they don't make up for all the disadvantages, i really want to do a 5.4 dohc tt build and put it in my 98 gt but i went conservative too lol built block (had for awhile) and a d1sc ... well maxed out d1sc need a F1a or F1r lol
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