New clutch nightmare / Clutch build thread

[Swapfox2145]

Edited for ease of reading sorry there was alot to detail but I am doing this on my own after the nightmare see second post.


Hello everyone this is my first post and I thought no better place then a specific forum for my vehicle.
I bought a 1996 mustang gt that needed a little work 2 years ago, in that time I have rebuilt the car with
the best of my abilities and the car was running better then ever. I took deep pride in
resurrecting an American made classic and loved my gt. I also have a new edge my old lady drives. The
last item on the list was a new clutch I shopped around got quotes checked reviews and decided on a
local shop in seattle with perfect reviews with a warranty for the aftermarket parts I wanted installed.
I bought a new clutch fork, rear main seal, bbk adjustable cable, quadrant, and firewall adapter. He was
to provide the clutch kit for ease encase of issues. I paid him a little more as he seemed knowledgeable
and I really wanted it done right as I had just done a tune up, and Iac among many other things. My gt
was running like a top, better then ever. I paid when I picked up my vehicle and it has been nothing but a nightmare.

From the initial first visit I was getting bad vibrations in my pedal and the whole car so I jacked the
car up and realized that my new clutch fork was all over the place and if the firewall adjuster was
loosened at all the fork would fall off of the pivot ball. So I took it back and we got it on the lift
while running and the owner was amazed his tech even installed it like that. He called his tech over
who said what am I supposed to do? right infront of me!!!!! Obviously I was spending what I needed
getting nice parts and doing everything I could to rehab everything from the pedal back so why would
I skimp on a $20 pivot ball? seriously?

So the owner proceeds to take my transmission out to replace
the pivot ball and finds that my new clutch forks leaf springs were damaged because of his negligence.
so I returned the clutch fork got a refund he got a new clutch fork and pivot ball and reinstalled everything
and I was on my way. Not 5 minutes after I left my car was having bad vibrations no longer at all due to a
negligent installation but something serious was wrong. I had been to his shop 3 times at this point and
decided to take it to another mechanic the next day. Fast forward at the new shop they drive my car realize
something is off right away put it on the rack and in less then 5 minutes they diagnosed a severe pressure
plate imbalance, wrote me a slip to not put the other shop on the defense and just to make them aware of the issue.
Mind you the main shop had seen my car on the rack running just the same as this new shop the day before and instead of fixing the
pressure plate while they did the pivot ball and fork he hoped that fixed it his words!!!!

So after getting the written proof I went back to the main shop and explained that I am being bled dry by you driving an hour limping my car
back and forth is causing damage and my vehicle was in the best running shape since I purchased it before I came to him
and let him know I need this car fixed to work. I have a family I love my car obviously I have put 2 years of my life into fixing it.
He assured me he had all new parts to replace the issues and I left my car with him for two days. Fast forward to friday the third
day no word at all so I called at 3pm and asked if I needed to leave to come get my car as traffic was terrible and he was to busy
doing my car so his tech told me to call back at 4 so I called three times 3rd time from my fiances phone before they would answer
and he told me everything was put back together and they were having trouble reinstalling the stock pall gear and quadrant from the
aftermarket I had supplied as he was convinced all the after market parts were causing the issue so I got a stock cable and had all
the stock spare parts still.

I told him no problem I am omw and I will get it installed when I arrived they hadn't even taken my driver
seat out of course they had issues so I got it done in 20 minutes we hooked up my cable the owner took it for a drive around the
building and said it was good so I go to leave and rev the car up and it sounds like a tractor almost like I had no exhaust on my car
at all. I immediately rushed back as he was trying to leave it was a friday and I told him something is seriously wrong he said no you're
exhaust sounded like that when it came here I told him no my car was vibrating from you're improper torquing of the pressure plate my
exhaust was fine before you took it off to reinstall my 2nd clutch. He tried to feed me a line of bullshit saying that sometimes exhausts
need carbon build up to seal again which I knew was horseshit He begrudgingly agreed to rack the car up while running and immediately
while under the car noticed the issue his technician had torqued my passenger xpipe metal gasket literally halfway inbetween both pipes creating
a massive exhaust leak......That is venting still into my cabin!!!!!!!


I told him seriously? you had my car for two days and you have constantly made it worse with every visit.
So he had me hold the xpipe out of the way instead of taking it off he grabbed a circle stone to try to pound my gasket back into shape and then
try to slide it in while I held the x pipe back and then told me to go around the building and give it a try ofcourse it didn't work and he said all he can
do is order it monday and replace it no sorry no nothing at this point I am 7 trips in $20 a trip 5 trips with 2 cars $15 a trip for the v6 the initial install
and countless headaches and even worse problems now. On the drive home I still had terrible vibrations no longer in my clutch pedal throught the entire
car shaking my rolled up passenger window and exhaust fumes pouring into my car the entire way home thru traffic. With this second installation their
should be no extreme vibrations I am done with this my plan is to go in monday and make him replace the gasket so my car is safe and get a full refund
I have a family friend attorney willing to work pro bono to do whatever we need to make me whole again my vehicle was not in the shape I have constantly
received it back in I am concerned these issues have spread to my engine. I also have the second shop owner who has been diagnosing the first shops short
comings willing to come to court to support all of my documentation and physical pieces I have that show their negligence. In my opinion I really hope monday
goes well I get the gasket they broke fixed and get my money $850 to take it to another shop who can do the job properly and hope this hasn't destroyed my
transmission engine or rear end. I know this is long but I would really appreciate any advice and wisdom or just kind words its been very rough dealing with everything
and I just wished that I had attempted to tackle this on my own as I have done all my other work very succesfully thus far and I just can't believe someone with
those ratings charging those prices and whatnot being so negligent constantly.
thanks everyone and looking forward to being apart of the community once this is fixed.

 

[g36 monkey]

Hello everyone. This is my first post and I thought no better place than a specific forum for my vehicle.

I bought a 1996 mustang GT that needed a little work 2 years ago. In that time I have rebuilt the car to
the best of my abilities and knowledge and the car was running better than ever. I took a deep pride in
resurrecting an American made classic and loved my GT.

I also have a new edge my old lady drives. The last item on the list was a new clutch. I shopped around, got quotes, checked reviews and decided on a local shop in Seattle with perfect reviews and a warranty for the aftermarket parts I wanted installed.

I bought a new clutch fork, rear main seal, BBK adjustable cable, quadrant and firewall adapter and he was to provide the clutch kit for ease in case of issues. I paid him a little more as he seemed knowledgeable and I really wanted it done right as I had just done a tune up: IAC, among many other things and my GT was running like a top better than I had ever seen it run since I started the process. I paid when I picked up my vehicle and it has been nothing but a nightmare.

From the initial first visit I was getting bad vibrations in my pedal and the whole car. I jacked the
car up and realized that my new clutch fork was all over the place and if the firewall adjuster was
loosened at all the fork would fall off of the pivot ball.

So I took it back and we got it on the lift. While running the owner was amazed his tech even installed it like that so he called his tech over.
The tech said “What am I supposed to do?†Right in front of me!
Obviously I was spending what I needed getting nice parts and doing everything I could to rehab everything from the pedal back so why would I skimp on a $20 pivot ball? Seriously?

So the owner proceeds to take my transmission out to replace the pivot ball and finds that my new clutch forks leaf springs were damaged because of the techs negligence. So I returned the clutch fork, got a refund, got a new clutch fork and pivot ball and reinstalled everything.

I was on my way not 5 minutes after I left my car was having bad vibrations no longer at all due to a
negligent installation but something serious was wrong. I had been to his shop 3 times at this point and
decided to take it to another mechanic the next day.

Fast forward at the new shop they drive my car realized something is off right away. They put it on the rack and in less than 5 minutes they diagnosed a severe pressure plate imbalance and wrote me a slip to not put the other shop on the defense and just to make them aware of the issue.

Mind you the main shop had seen my car on the rack running just the same as this new shop and instead of fixing the pressure plate that time while they did the pivot ball and fork he hoped that fixed it. Those were his words!

So after getting the written proof I went back to the main shop and explained that I am being bled dry by you. I am driving an hour limping my car back and forth and it is causing damage and my vehicle was in the best running shape since I purchased it before I came here.

I let him know I need this car fixed to work, I have a family and I obviously I love my car I have put 2 years of my life into fixing it. He assured me he had all new parts to replace the issues and I left my car with him for two days. Fast forward to Friday, the third day no word at all so I called at 3pm and asked if I needed to leave to come get my car because traffic was terrible and he was too busy doing my car so his tech told me to call back at 4. So I called three times, the third time from my fiancés phone before they would answer. He told me everything was put back together and they were having trouble reinstalling the stock pall gear and quadrant from the aftermarket I had supplied as he was convinced all the aftermarket parts were causing the issue. So I got a stock cable and had all the stock spare parts still.

I told him no problem, I am on my way and I will get it installed when I arrive. When I got there they hadn't even taken my driver seat out of course they had issues so I got it done in 20 minutes.

We hooked up my cable the owner took it for a drive around the building and said it was good. So I go to leave and rev the car up and it sounds like a tractor, almost like I had no exhaust on my car at all.

I immediately rushed back because he was trying to leave since it was a Friday and told him something is seriously wrong. He said no your exhaust sounded like that when it came here.

I told him no my car was vibrating from your improper torqueing of the pressure plate. My exhaust was fine before you took it off to reinstall my 2nd clutch.
He tried to feed me a line of bullshit saying that sometimes exhausts need carbon build up to seal again which I knew was horseshit.

He begrudgingly agreed to rack the car up while running and immediately while under the car noticed the issue. His technician had torqued my passenger x-pipe metal gasket literally halfway in-between both pipes creating a massive exhaust leak that was venting into my cabin!

I told him “seriously? You had my car for two days and you have constantly made it worse with every visit.†So he had me hold the x-pipe out of the way instead of taking it off, he grabbed a circle stone to try to pound my gasket back into shape and then try to slide it in while I held the x pipe back and then told me to go around the building and give it a try.

Of course it didn't work and he said that all he can do is order it Monday and replace it. No sorry no nothing. At this point I am 7 trips in at $20 a trip, 5 trips with 2 cars $15 a trip for the v6, the initial install
and countless headaches, and even worse problems now. On the drive home I still had terrible vibrations no longer in my clutch pedal throughout the entire car. This was shaking my rolled up passenger window and I had exhaust fumes pouring into my car the entire way home while in traffic. With this second installation there should be no extreme vibrations.

I am done with this, my plan is to go in Monday and make him replace the gasket so my car is safe and get a full refund. I have a family friend attorney willing to work pro bono to do whatever we need to make me whole again. My vehicle was not in the shape I have constantly received it back in and I am concerned these issues have spread to my engine.

I also have the second shop owner who has been diagnosing the first shops short comings willing to come to court to support all of my documentation and physical pieces I have that show their negligence. In my opinion, I really hope Monday goes well. I get the gasket they broke fixed and get my money ($850) to take it to another shop that can do the job properly and hope this hasn't destroyed my
transmission engine or rear end.

I know this is long but I would really appreciate any advice and wisdom or just kind words it has been very rough dealing with everything and I just wished that I had attempted to tackle this on my own as I have done all my other work very successfully thus far. I just can't believe someone with those ratings charging those prices and whatnot would be so negligent and put my life at risk constantly. Thanks everyone, looking forward to being a part of the community once this is fixed.

 

[g36 monkey]

Try posting in a format so people can actually read it. That took me a great deal of time to fix for you. Not to mention, there, they're and their as well as than and then.

Those issues aside, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your trouble with this shop but things like that happen. I don't think any sort of civil suit (like what it sounds like you are threatening) would go very far. You might be able to be reimbursed for gas there and back, and maybe some of the labor if it had to be re-done, but the likelihood is slim to none.

It sounds like the guy is doing what he can to work with you, on top of that the repairs he did subsequently it sounds like he is doing for free. Hard to ask for much more out of a shop.

 

[Swapfox2145]

If anyone wants an update, they tried to wiggle out of doing the gasket because I was doing a refund. He wanted to give me more to have it done elsewhere so he didn't have to. So I
Told him I can't ride around with exhaust fumes and had him get the oem gasket. The exhaust issue is fixed but my flywheel is trashed I am convinced. So I am doing this myself. Mcleod clutch, new ford flywheel, and bellhousing spacer because I have a little starter grind. I figure the clutch fork, pivot cable, and everything is new so after I do the clutch with flywheel everything should be great.
The car has vibration at acceleration but I am convinced it's the flywheel they turned themselves twice. I figure I have done everything at this point might as well spend $500 on the job to get great parts
and do it right myself rather then $1200 for a stock install with no warranty elsewhere. There is a plethora of info online and I have some spare time to knock this out and feel confident.

Here is my cars so you guys have something to look at I love them and they both are great easy cars to work on!

 

[96blak54]

Welcome to the best sn95 forum. Hands down you wont find a better crowd of folks willing to help. To bad you live so far away or id be helpin you out. Anyhow, ask questions, pick our brains, show us pics of your car. Maybe start a build thread as you tackle this clutch problem.

 

[Swapfox2145]

That's a great Idea I will probably just add to this to keep clutter down.
I will take pictures as I go along I am a little concerned with dropping the tranny but feel confident and have a friend coming to give a hand.
I re edited the initial post to be a little easier to read. I am finalizing my part list and going to be ordering everything I need in the next couple of days.
Right now it has a stock quadrant, New Ford Cable, Ford clutch fork, Ford pivot ball, new rear main seal, and a luk 07-042 with my stock flywheel that has been trashed.
I am unsure if I should bother taking the stock quadrant off and trying the new one with my install. I would have to cut the plastic off the ford cable
and use the firewall adjuster aswell and don't want issues I am thinking of just doing the install first and seeing where I am at.

Here is my sn95 I bought it for cheap 125,000 miles($500) with no front bumper and driver fender but no frame damage. I rebuilt and painted it but plan to repaint the whole car after I sort everything out mechanical. So far I have slotted brakes with ceramic pads, Triple row radiator, CAI, Xpipe, Cherrybombs, and just did tune up with fuel filter and pcv. I also did Iac and am doing tps while doing clutch trying to sort a hanging idle. I am going to snag an iac restrictor plate form ebay aswell. I also noticed my hose going to my charcoal canister is rotting away so that could be letting unmetered air in aswell so I plan to get that replaced aswell. I plan to do a pi swap as I bought this car to learn on but I need it to drive with minimal downtime.

So I am thinking of going with these parts, I have a romeo 11 bolt, t45 install to get parts for and with my research this seems like the best way to go:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-iron-flywheel-9600-6bolt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-streetpro-clutch-8601gt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-bellhousing-plate-9610-manual.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-pilotbearing-96102.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/motorcraft-auto-transmission-fluid.html

 

[g36 monkey]

I would use the firewall adjuster and quadrant for sure with an OEM Ford cable.

Glad you more or less got it sorted out.

I was not trying to be an ass earlier but people definitely would have had a hard time reading through all of that.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Man, sorry about the misfortune!

Welcome to the community, though. Youve come to the right spot. Where are you located?

Also, I would install the aftermarket quadrant and use the ford cable with the firewall adjuster. Thats going to be your best setup, and the only way it would cause problems is if the throwout bearing was not adjusted correctly. Take your time, do it right and cover all your basis. When I pull a transmission out I like to organize my bolts and lay them on a rag next to the car. If none get lost then you know exactly what has to go back in.

Also, youre going to want to pull the shifter off the transmission completely before trying to drop it. Youll need an 18mm 6 point socket and probably a good universal swivel to get the exhaust bolts down. The passenger side is a pain lol.

Get yourself a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw and cut the two tabs (ears) off the bellhousing of the transmission after you get it down, if they arent already gone. They will hit the floor when pulling and putting the trans and make it a real pain to r&r.

Lastly, ditch that mercon v in favor of some pennzoil synchromesh. You can get it at any parts house and your transmission will thank you for it. Itll take about 3 quarts. You can fill it through the shifter hole after the trans is in the car.

Good Luck!

 

[Swapfox2145]

I would use the firewall adjuster and quadrant for sure with an OEM Ford cable.

Glad you more or less got it sorted out.

I was not trying to be an ass earlier but people definitely would have had a hard time reading through all of that.

No problem didn't see it I was in the thick of it all and stressed so it turned into a blob of text that I revised so it's easier to read the initial story. I was reading MM article and my qaudrant and firewall adapter are decent I think I am going to get this new stuff in and go from there so I can trouble shoot without that stuff first incase of issues. Thanks for the advice and I am going to start ordering tonight I am upgrading my sockets so they won't break getting long extensions and swivels and everything needed for a good clutch install. I am snagging a transmission converter for my floor jack to get the tranny out. I have been studying my clutch for 2 months now since this all began and feel confident and cannot wait to get into it and drive it for the first time. Do you think I am correct with the vibration during acceleration coming from my trashed flywheel? They had to turn it twice inbetween and they do it in house so I figure it has to be the issue unless their work caused other issues but the car seems fine beyond that and the hanging idle. I am checking everything, I have done most things to try to troubleshoot so far and some luck still does it though. Clean Maf, new Iac, completely cleaned throttle body took off car, checked for vacuum leak (found rotting canister house going to replace) Also my tps does nothing when unplugged so I figure I should replace that aswell. I have been troubleshooting the hanging idle with this link

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/troubleshoot-iac-idle-problems-1996-2004.13/

Do you think the parts I listed above are going to be decent? I have been doing as much research as possible and it seems those are decent parts I have about $500 to spend on clutch stuff and am spending $150 to get the proper tools to do this correctly I have a decent set of tools but my sockets are cheap aswell as my extensions are too short. I feel confident and my tools selection is decent I think with what I am buying I should be able to knock this out.

 

[Swapfox2145]

Man, sorry about the misfortune!

Welcome to the community, though. Youve come to the right spot. Where are you located?

Also, I would install the aftermarket quadrant and use the ford cable with the firewall adjuster. Thats going to be your best setup, and the only way it would cause problems is if the throwout bearing was not adjusted correctly. Take your time, do it right and cover all your basis. When I pull a transmission out I like to organize my bolts and lay them on a rag next to the car. If none get lost then you know exactly what has to go back in.

Also, youre going to want to pull the shifter off the transmission completely before trying to drop it. Youll need an 18mm 6 point socket and probably a good universal swivel to get the exhaust bolts down. The passenger side is a pain lol.

Get yourself a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw and cut the two tabs (ears) off the bellhousing of the transmission after you get it down, if they arent already gone. They will hit the floor when pulling and putting the trans and make it a real pain to r&r.

Lastly, ditch that mercon v in favor of some pennzoil synchromesh. You can get it at any parts house and your transmission will thank you for it. Itll take about 3 quarts. You can fill it through the shifter hole after the trans is in the car.

Good Luck!

Ya it's been a bummer I really thought I did all the research, got quotes, and educated myself on the installation to make sure it was all going to be great but it turned ugly fast and for awhile. I am located in Everett WA. Now that I am done and got everything as close to fair as it's gonna be I am going with alll new parts and just going to take it a step at a time. I am using these two links as my main resources for the install and if I run into any issues which I don't think I will there is a ton of info everywhere so I am hoping to get that great install I was after so I can keep moving on my project and building it up. Paint is last but the paints ok for now. Thanks for all the great info in you're post I had actually been talking to tko resto in ky and he recommended the synchro aswell so I am going to get that. I plan to empty my tranny completely to help maneuver and will be installing a short throw shifter at the same time so I planned to remove the shifter. Will three quarts fill it up all the way? I have heard 8, 5, and now 3 so I am a little confused but I am pretty positive on the specs and the t45 I checked my vin and my bellhousing is attached to my tranny.

Tko install and american muscle write up (btw tko resto is the best youtube channel they do nothing but stangs and I fell in love with the channel and it really gave me the final push to not sit on the sidelines anymore and get screwed)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-9Zr9JZPlM
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-aluminum-flywheel-t45-cust-install.html

Here is what I am thinking of ordering any suggestions??

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-i...600-6bolt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod...ch-8601gt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-b...10-manual.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-p...ing-96102.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/motorcraft-auto-transmission-fluid.html

 

[96blak54]

As stated, dont skimp on the tranny fluid for a t45. Buy the proven good stuff.

Your biggest hurtles will be crap exhaust manifold bolt situations, finding the correct flywheel to crank orientation, and 3rd starter bolt. Cut the dang'd bellhousing ears off! They prevent a tranny reinstall.

The flywheel bolt pattern appears cemetric, but its not. All bolts will thumb screw in at the matching orientation. Get one bolt thumbed in and then try another, then another. Should it not thumb screw in, rotate the flywheel one hole, start over.

No tellin what crap job that shop pulled off under that pretty car. Be prepared to let the car sit for sometime. Dont have a mind set to finish the swap in a couple of days. Broke bolts, rounded bolt heads, cross threaded, or stripped threaded holes. Dont count on a couple of days.

 

[Swapfox2145]

As stated, dont skimp on the tranny fluid for a t45. Buy the proven good stuff.

Your biggest hurtles will be crap exhaust manifold bolt situations, finding the correct flywheel to crank orientation, and 3rd starter bolt. Cut the dang'd bellhousing ears off! They prevent a tranny reinstall.

The flywheel bolt pattern appears cemetric, but its not. All bolts will thumb screw in at the matching orientation. Get one bolt thumbed in and then try another, then another. Should it not thumb screw in, rotate the flywheel one hole, start over.

No tellin what crap job that shop pulled off under that pretty car. Be prepared to let the car sit for sometime. Dont have a mind set to finish the swap in a couple of days. Broke bolts, rounded bolt heads, cross threaded, or stripped threaded holes. Dont count on a couple of days.

I am finalizing the list about to order the tools I need and the parts and got the synchro how many quarts will I need if I drain the tranny from the side bleeder and fully drain it? I figure it will make my life easier for my first tranny drop I am fairly mechanically inclined or I wouldn't even attempt. Last I was under the car they replaced my gasket with an oem so I am gonna be carefull with that I have an xpipe on the car and fairly new hardware so with it being taken apart so many times recently I am hoping it's not to tight. I am getting a big extension and a bunch of smaller ones as those bolts are pretty deep in there and I can already know getting that out will be fun. Most of the videos said the flywheel goes one way so I am figuring keep spinning till I think it's right throw a bolt in and go from there. The guy at the shop told me the starter was a pain but I saw a nice little tip on tko's channel they go from the front of the car to hit that third bolt so I am gonna attempt it. I will file those off or hack them off when I locate them my bellhousing is attached to my tranny I saw it out of the car one of the times they had it apart. You are 100% correct I have no idea what they did so it will be a learning curve but I should have just done it myself the first time but you live and learn and thats what this car was meant for at the time 2 months ago I was swamped so the timing wasn't right I am just hoping they didn't botch anything to bad. I figure I give myself a week if I need new hardware or whatever I have saved a portion of my budget for unexpected expenses and if anything is seriously wrong I am going to make sure the shop owner rectify's the issue as they were the only ones in there ever. I figure nice new sockets and the correct tools will aid me in making sure not to do any damage myself and I got a nice torque wrench and have been watching videos over and over I am ordering real soon I am just making sure I covered all of my bases but I will have the car on jacks after delivery going right after it I will make sure to keep updating the thread on how this plays out. I am really hoping it's just a badly turned flywheel like obviously bad like the rest of their install work so far so I can throw these new parts at it and drive away vibration free. Thanks for all the advice I will continue updating. Thanks for the compliment aswell I love my sn95 I put alot of work into getting that front end back together properly and looking right.

Here are some pics from after I first bought the vehicle and put the bumper and fender on and started working on it

And my lady's v6 they both just got tune ups hers got a double din swap and tinted windows aswell as new headlights I will get a picture of everything when my parts get here before I start taking pics for the clutch build.

 

[Swapfox2145]

Here is my final part list

I ended up going with a different clutch because of cost I needed more odds and ends then I thought that being said the exedy seems to have great reviews and I think I have enough synchro to fill my tranny with 5. I am sure I covered all my bases thread locker for the bolts and gasket maker for the short shifter. I also got some white lithium to make sure I can get everything lubed up properly if anyone has any last minute suggestions let me know I am going to order tomorrow and update with pics after I receive all my stuff for the rebuild. With $120 in tools plus 335, and 102 I am right at $555 which isn't bad leaves me plenty of budget incase anything goes wrong and I need something I think I will be glad I got all these new parts to compliment the rest of my new parts. Once I get this clutch in I will install the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster again to try to make them work with my new stock cable. I appreciate the guidance thus far and will continue to update the journey as I go along and get this clutch installed properly once and for all!!!!!

 

[g36 monkey]

Sounds like you have it fairly well under control. I would do a good vacuum check for the hanging idle.

 

[lwarrior1016]

T45 fluid capacity is 3.3 quarts

Youve got a good handle on whats going on. Good luck, have fun, and keep us updated.

 

[Swapfox2145]

Sounds like you have it fairly well under control. I would do a good vacuum check for the hanging idle.

Thanks man I have been doing everything I can to educate myself and double check. I found my issue for the high idle! I should have replaced my multimeter so I could actually check the tps but essentially it was causing surging idle and high (1500-2000) idle condition the minute the tps was unplugged it ran great took it around the block no issues. Once I plugged it back in the surging and high idle came back. I can't wait to try out this new clutch setup once it's all installed and I have no issues I am going to be installing that firewall adaptor and quadrant with my install. I really cannot wait to go back to the shop that did the bad work and give them their clutch kit and let him know I replaced everything and fixed the issue on my own on jackstands at my house lol.

T45 fluid capacity is 3.3 quarts

Youve got a good handle on whats going on. Good luck, have fun, and keep us updated.

Thanks I think I am going to place my order today since I got the approval on the parts list from you guys, with that new flywheel and exedy clutch I am hoping for a real nice install. Btw I love that cobra bumper on you're sn95 I was actually thinking of doing the same front and rear before I have the car repainted black when im done working on it. I have been rewatching my sources to make sure I have it covered and can't wait until the parts and tools I'm ordering start rolling in. Thanks for all the assistance guys I was dicey at the end of it doing it myself but it really isn't that bad and it's a good life skill next up I need to crack open my rear end and do some seals and refresh gear oil. Then start to build the engine. This car has been great to learn on I have done autoglass for 7 years so I am mechanically inclined but before this car I never did much. Now I feel very well rounded in most aspects of car maintenance.


I should be finalizing today and ordering everything so this project should be underway in no time. I'm glad I found this forum I really enjoy posting my progress and everything so far with my car. I'm very proud of the work i've done so far and the car wasn't long for this world when I found it they were a week away from junking it with 125,000 miles I believe I spent $1000 initially getting it running, looking, and braking properly which isn't bad on a $500 car. Total investment so far after clutch is $2500 and it is just over 134,000 miles now. I appreciate all the insight you guys have thanks.

Exedy confirmed my parts I am ordering now!

 

[Swapfox2145]

Alright I just put in my orders everything is on the way now and I will be finally getting this clutch fixed! I am stoked plus with this stage 1 clutch, I will be able to make my power goal of 350 no problem just gotta get the engine there. Thanks for everything guys I am going to be taking pictures and doing a full build updating along the way with my progress. after this build I am redoing my seals and swapping fluid in the rear end. I noticed a little wet mud on my passenger brake dust shield while under the car. Stay tuned everyone build starting asap as soon as the parts arrive!!!!!

Here is all the supplies plus I orderered $120 in tools, Tps, and ebay Iac restricter plate. So far I am $555 into it and cannot wait to feel this new clutch with everything replaced with good parts and done correctly I am going to do my best to go step by step to ensure a proper installation, I can count on for years to come thanks for everything so far guys!!!!!! Do you guys think I should paint the bellhousing spacer to prevent rust? If anyone in the WA area is down I would love to have some company!

 

[OLD H2S]

Check the flywheel will work with the Exedy clutch. Last one I did needed the Exedy matching flywheel and they did not tell my buddy so we got to do the job twice.

 

[Swapfox2145]

Check the flywheel will work with the Exedy clutch. Last one I did needed the Exedy matching flywheel and they did not tell my buddy so we got to do the job twice.

Thanks for the advice I called and checked with exedy before I placed the order and he went on american muscle and verified the mach 350 will work the ford flywheel i picked out no problem. Also tools have started rolling in I got a 15pc metric 12 point air rated socket set, My 3pc pack of swivels, the order from summit and my new tps came today! I just got the Tps installed and my idle is perfect now just drops slower when out of gear but the Iac restrictor plate I ordered should remedy that. Here is the pic with everything I got so far! You guys think I should paint this new bellhousing spacer plate? I have some can's left over from the front end build I was thinking it could help avoid rust?

 

[OLD H2S]

Not to add more confusion to your repair... I just measured a Ford flywheel and an Exedy flywheel and the Exedy is thinner , but not by much. Then I measured the pressure plates and they have different mounting fingers heights for the TOB but when measured with the bearing both came out the same at 3.500 static height. Now the clutch disks come a little different thickness but not enough to make me worry, the main distance is 3.500" and when mounted there will be some compression of the PP down on the disk so the 3.500" distance will be less. The adjustable cable will take up the compression distance and all should be good??? I saw another thread about adding an extra return spring to the cable at the clutch fork to stop the TOB from constant wear that will add some play to the pedal. I got pictures if you want them but after all the effort most people just slam everything together and it all works, I am trying to find a problem that may not exist because of the problems before mixing Ford and Exedy parts.