Newb with some stoopid questions

delling3

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Bear with me here, after looking at some of the builds on this site, my plans will seem pretty mundane, but looking for some advise.

'96 GT VERT. Automatic. Pretty much bone stock at the moment. I am planning on some performance mods - basically bolt-on stuff. While I would like to just pull the car into the shop and pull it out when it's done, my discretionary income doesn't support that, so it will be done a little bit at a time. Curious what thoughts you may have about the order of the mods, (which comes first?), as well as my actual choices.

In no particular order:

PI Intake Swap
Exhaust. Undecided if I will go cat-back, install a catted x-pipe to replace stock, or O/R x-pipe. Plan on sticking with OE manifold whichever way I go.
Throttle body (70mm-ish)
CAI
Underdrive pulleys (Steeda)
3.73 gearing

So, flame away!
 

SnakeBit!

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in order:

gears
shifter
exhaust
udp's.
skip the tb
you can also skip the cai unless you just like the sound.
pi intake swap
 
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delling3

delling3

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Thanks. What are you referencing with your shifter comment? I hadn't mentioned any mods to the transmission?

I assume that the throttle body won't give enough gain to make it worth doing?


in order:

gears
shifter
exhaust
udp's.
skip the tb
you can also skip the cai unless you just like the sound.
pi intake swap
 

98snakehorse

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I wouldn't worry about the TB tell you get more serious with wanting to make power. If you want to go faster gears is the absolute best first mod for a performance aspect.
He mentioned the shifter as it is a performance mod which you indicated you were going after. An aftermarket shifter will give you a much more aggressive driving experience, I would recommend an mgw.

If it was me I would go for gears and suspension as my first mods.
 

SnakeBit!

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my bad, you have an auto. never mind on the shifter.

correct on the tb. won't help at this point and with bolt ons like you suggest.
 

g36 monkey

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Best/cheapest way to go fast:

Gears
Used blower

But then you get hungry for more.

In your case I would say gears, 4.10s if you don't do much highway driving. While you're in there, go ahead and refresh the diff, new clutch packs, etc.

Exhaust, mostly just for fun. Hearing the car is half the excitement.

PI intake swap.

J-Mod. I can't believe no one said this for the auto :)

These things alone will make the car feel completely different.
 

SnakeBit!

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you may also want to consider a tuner. put in a 93 tune, you can change the shift firmness and so forth without having to open the tranny up.
 

01yellercobra

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Sub frame connectors would probably be my first mod. Then gears.
 
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delling3

delling3

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Thanks for all the replies.

I am going to pick up the car in a couple hours after having Steeda full-length SFC's installed - that was my first performance related mod - Ford really should have done this - at least with the convertibles.

When I bought the car, it had a tranny leak at the front of the trans, necessitating the trans being dropped. The shop I worked with made some minor changes while it was out, resulting in much firmer shifts. Not sure how much more improvement is possible with the J-Mod. The car will be going back to him for the gear swap in the diff. I do anticipate making some longer freeway trips (250 miles to my cabin), so I will likely go with the 3.73 gears instead of 4.10's.

I'll likely do the intake and UDP's while the car is laid up for the winter.

Thanks again.
 

ttocs

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when you drive the car, do you end up stuck at lights or in traffic? If so I would not recommend udp's. The slow the alt down enough(even if you do not install the alt pulley) and causes it to both generate more heat since its trying to supply the same current needed, as well as not be able to git rid of the heat very fast since it does it by turning. If your in traffic a lot first you will probably notice your headlights dimming and then later your voltage dropping. But if you are not in traffic a lot and its kept up in rpms then its fine. If it is something you want to do, do not buy them new. Its not uncommon at all that folks later do not like burning up alts or do more performance upgrades to where the extra few hp they add doesn't justify slowing things down and they then want to sell/trade for stock pullies. I tried them and was just happy to get them for $50, and then sell them for $50 with the only loss being my alternator that fried in between.
 

white95

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Aside from everything you’ve listed, you should inspect all of the suspension bushings. A modest upgrade from the worn, compliant rubber bushings to new, firmer (which will somewhat increase NVH but the exhaust will mostly mask it) polyurethane bushings will vastly improve the driving feel. You can also upgrade the rear lower control arms to better keep the rear centered on take off.
 

PinkieT

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Agree with the above comments. My 98 vert has pretty much what is on your list except for the underdrive pulleys, and I have the parts for the PI swap on the shelf ready for a winter project. Does your year 'vert have a front strut tower brace in the engine compartment? If not, one would be a good addition to the subframe connectors, especially if the threaded inserts are to bolt it in are already on your car. Not mentioned is lowering springs with camber/caster plates and bigger tires/wheels. Also consider brake upgrades at some point - drilled/slotted rotors and high performance pads are easy bolt-ons.
 

evilcw311

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Don’t waste time and money with udp’s. Proven many of times to do nothing at all except cause problems.


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SnakeBit!

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seems that the udp's depend on the brand as to gains and issues. I know the local shop uses the Steeda putteys and have seen some gains.
 

ttocs

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I am not going to go as far as to say there are no gains. I have seen the dyno sheets to show there can be but again if it is on a car that is stuck idliing a lot then they are just not a good decision in the long run.
 
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delling3

delling3

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The first performance modification I made was to have a set of Steeda SFC's installed. One thing I really can't believe the factory didn't do as standard - particularly on the convertible. The car already was fitted with a strut tower brace - not sure if that was OE or the prior owner installed it.

When I bought the car, I installed new struts/shocks, and had a new set of Sumitomo tires installed on the stock chrome rims. I am hesitant to lower the car for - we have some really crappy roads, and I am not sure giving up ground clearance is the best choice, although I know it can improve handling, and obviously has a better look.

Based on what the opinions, I will pass on the UDP's, and probably pass on the TB and CAI as well. I will plan on the 3.73 gearset, and the PI intake, and then reassess.

Thanks again.
 

g36 monkey

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What you've done already/have planned will make it feel like a totally different car than when you bought it!
 

01yellercobra

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I overlooked them, I am so used to having them I just expect that everyone does by now. Probably one of the biggest difference makers.
You'd think that. My 04 had 97k on it when I bought it and still didn't have SFC's. I quickly changed that.
 

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