PI Heads
- Thread starter Booboo
- Start date
All 2v modulars came pi after 02 and up. Shoot for 04 up heads. The earlier pi heads came 4 thread sparkplug holes and were prone to blowing out the plugs. The 04 up heads have 9 threads.
Try to find service F250 or Econoline 5.4l heads. They came with most performance oriented cams.
Try to find service F250 or Econoline 5.4l heads. They came with most performance oriented cams.
Where you located? I will be selling a set of new PI heads I got from Summit and never used...
Just sent you a PM
Went to the junk yard today and found a 2009 Crown Vic with a decent looking set of heads, no guages so no idea of how many miles on them. I was not able to take them off today so I have to go back this weeknd. I assume these heads will work.
RAU03MACH
Legend
when you go back post up some pictures of the heads
check them out
Good idea Rau03mach
Just so that we can help identify. It would be awful to grab the wrong set.
Just so that we can help identify. It would be awful to grab the wrong set.
Count the spark plug threads and pull the cam caps off. You don’t want to see a bunch or scoring on the cam journals.
Counting the sparkplug theads is easy. Either visually looking at the threads or counting the turns to loosen/tighten of the sparkplug.
Otherwise those heads look great. Strange to be 09 heads and they have the cam tower bridges. Did you pull these heads from an 09 crownvic like you mentioned in a post earlier?
Otherwise those heads look great. Strange to be 09 heads and they have the cam tower bridges. Did you pull these heads from an 09 crownvic like you mentioned in a post earlier?
How bad? Can you post a picture? I’ve used some that were pretty bad, but the cams still turned freely.
The caps are a tad rough. Could be the picture, but not bad enough to negate a repair and i base my reasoning on the cam tower journal surface, they looks great. I have ran much much worse conditions and ran them for many of miles. Of course, you ask the same question anywhere else youll get a multitude of answers mostly towards getting the surfaces repaired.
Shoot, I’d rub some red scotch brite in there on the surfaces and I’d run those suckers. As long as the cams spun freely, that is.
I'd personally avoid heads with seriously scuffed up cam journals and those are pretty seriously scuffed but I also see full on scratches that run the full hemisphere on the cam caps. Yes you can run them but how long before bad things start happening is a guessing game.
Looks like it was run low on oil and/or oil change intervals were regularly extended. Pick up Pinkie's heads. You'll at least never have to put a new engine in it because the cam journals decided to spit a some metal into the oiling system. The journals are meant to be darned near as slick as glass. Significant scoring like your cam caps are showing is a sign of some evil-level maintenance abuse or neglect. I've pulled the cams from enough >150k mile engines where the cam journals were completely un-scuffed, though visibly hazier than when new, to think that there's no reason that they should be expected to look like what you have there other than through abuse/neglect.
I guess you could polish them up but looking at the depth of some of those scratches that could very likely open up those clearances beyond spec tolerances, enough to give you a mismatch between the top end and bottom end bearing clearances, and very likely enough to affect correct oil viscosity. You'll want to have the cam journal repair done with a line hone so you get actually round journals without lumps or a bunch of runout, I mean assuming you want the engine to last a while.
Bearing clearances, load directionality, oil operating temperature and oil viscosity requirements are all strongly coupled. If you do polish the cam journals you're probably best opening the clearances for main and rod bearings to match if it goes over .003" at the cam journals and then going to a slightly heavier weight oil. These engines were designed for really tight bearing clearances in the first place, but the actual spec tolerances are pretty wide so you could push everything to .003 and run 10w30 or 10w40.
Looks like it was run low on oil and/or oil change intervals were regularly extended. Pick up Pinkie's heads. You'll at least never have to put a new engine in it because the cam journals decided to spit a some metal into the oiling system. The journals are meant to be darned near as slick as glass. Significant scoring like your cam caps are showing is a sign of some evil-level maintenance abuse or neglect. I've pulled the cams from enough >150k mile engines where the cam journals were completely un-scuffed, though visibly hazier than when new, to think that there's no reason that they should be expected to look like what you have there other than through abuse/neglect.
I guess you could polish them up but looking at the depth of some of those scratches that could very likely open up those clearances beyond spec tolerances, enough to give you a mismatch between the top end and bottom end bearing clearances, and very likely enough to affect correct oil viscosity. You'll want to have the cam journal repair done with a line hone so you get actually round journals without lumps or a bunch of runout, I mean assuming you want the engine to last a while.
Bearing clearances, load directionality, oil operating temperature and oil viscosity requirements are all strongly coupled. If you do polish the cam journals you're probably best opening the clearances for main and rod bearings to match if it goes over .003" at the cam journals and then going to a slightly heavier weight oil. These engines were designed for really tight bearing clearances in the first place, but the actual spec tolerances are pretty wide so you could push everything to .003 and run 10w30 or 10w40.
