Porting Heads, which shapes?

CC'S95GT

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they look like they might work. Price is good.
Sometimes you get what you pay for though.
You'll probably need at least 2 sets to do your heads and intake.
 

Orange 94

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I used one shaped like the one in the middle left (5th from the left)

Cone shape with no sharp tip. Worked great. Not sure about the set from ebay.
 
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Pitbull_SN95

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Well, I somewhat know what I'm doing. I've done a few "homemade" port jobs before, so I know the basic steps. I have read about these kits and they work great on aluminum parts (Doesn't take much to remove aluminum with Carbide). My friend suggested the Eastwood kit, but it's the same material, and shapes.. for $30 less (American Labor Cost VS Chinese Labor Cost). I used stones on the previous porting but my friend said go for the Carbide burr sets. Thanks for the replies guys.
 

Wichers123

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As long as you don't mess with the port shape and deff don't mess with the port floor you'll be alright. If anything bolt up a gasket match it up then get the sandpaper rolls and blend it to the rest of the port.
 

ttocs

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I think all that addermk is saying is "I herby reserve the right to say 'I told you so'", in the most polite way he knows how. We don't know you or your experience in something like this so the assumption is that its your first time and you have never even done anything close too this yet.
 
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Pitbull_SN95

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Yeah I understand you can do more harm than good. I'm not doing a full out port job, just removing rough spots, and smoothing it out. I think ill let my friend do it with the carbide burrs since he has more experience. I will post pictures after and let people know how the eBay kit works.
 

Orange 94

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You'll be fine.


Porting the heads and intake is where my dad taught how to use the die grinder... We just used the gaskets to mark everything, then we matched everything up and smoothed everything so it would flow nicely.

Just take your time and don't touch important surfaces :p
 

CC'S95GT

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I just did the same as you want to on my gt40 intake and P heads.
All I did was smooth out the sand cast finish on the intake, gasket match the lower to the heads, and smooth the exhaust port and gasket match the to the headers.
I didn't touch the intake port or the combustion chamber at all,
 

Burninrock24

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Whatever you do, don't touch the port floor. Professionals raise the floor actually, lowering it kills the flow. You can clear up some of the shrouding around the valves, and re-lap them too while you're at it. Because believe it or not, the highest velocity air flow happens at very low lift, and at low lift the air is interacting most with the valve, valve seat, and the surrounding area in the combustion chamber. Low lift flow is incredibly important.

The port should never be larger than a gasket so it's okay to use that as a rule of thumb. Don't get too ambitious when porting around the valve stem either, get as fine of a wedge shape as you can and leave it in a teardrop shape almost. Otherwise there's a large negative pressure zone behind it. That's a no no.

If there's anything that you should keep in mind all the time when porting is that air is very heavy and doesn't like moving. So make as smooth of a path for the air to travel through.
 

Burninrock24

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Also don't do much to the exhaust side. Remember intake ports operate by negative pressure created in the cylinder, exhaust flow is generated by being pushed out. And by having a smaller exhaust port, you can have a higher port velocity, which helps scavenging at low intake lift. Which as I said before is very very good.
 

CC'S95GT

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I didn't lower the floor to the gasket. I only gasket matched the sides and moved the roof a little higher. And just smoothed the rest to a 400 grit smoothness
 

whiplash473

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there's no way you should be able to get those bits made out of that material for $19

38166056.jpg
 

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