Procharger for a 1994 GT

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B.mad

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I'm not saying it's a bad idea. but I am saying it is a bad idea at your experience level. just get out there and have fun.

again you are right, but read my above post (if you didnt already), as i was saying with others currently i wasnt attending any track events because my car has a horrible vibration that i wanted to fix before tracking this car for the first time. I have now gotten it fixed (replaced the motor mounts and harmonic balancer) and it drives like a dream..so now the next track event guess what i am going to do? I AM GOING T SIGN UP! woot woot. i dont feel comfortable enough to go to the big tracks yet, so i want to sign up for those weekly an monthly track event at local go cart tracks. they are really small for cars like mustangs, but dam it is good practice for throttle control. How do i know? i have seen many high HP cars lose control on these tracks and also i have raced on my other mustang. so i know i have to have better throttle control and these small tracks are perfect for it. so hopefully they have one next month because i am dying to track this car.
 
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It might actually be worth funding a 4-bolt shortblock. You can find a complete shortblock, with high volume oil pump, for $3000... knowing it's done right is worth the peace of mind.
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/boss-302-rotating-assembly-kit-p/ryp-boss302a-kit.htm


I see thats for a 302 CI, would i be able to chose my crank with that website?? Also for a boosted DD/Track Car, what will be a good compression ratio? I want to be able to use 91. 100 octane isnt a common site here in cali.
 
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that looks like a nice 331 setup on motor alone that would be around 350-400rwhp easily, so with a blower wont take much to make 500rwhp even on pump gas 8psi of boost should be right around 500rwhp. stock block is the weak link though after 450-500rwhp. I would be safe on it or do a aftermarket block

Thats what i want, i dont want most of my HP to be coming from the boost. just for that good power curve. 8psi sounds about right, i was thinking i will want to do max 12psi. i think after that is just trouble on different levels. i really love the idea of a nice N/A build with a s/c, it sounds like a reallly fun car.
 

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A good compression ratio for pump gas, and mild boost, is 9:1-9.5:1... it won't be a dog when not in boost, and should still allow some decent timing with anything less than ten pounds of boost.

It sounds like you have the right idea with building a good naturally aspirated engine, and putting a little boost to it.
 
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A good compression ratio for pump gas, and mild boost, is 9:1-9.5:1... it won't be a dog when not in boost, and should still allow some decent timing with anything less than ten pounds of boost.

It sounds like you have the right idea with building a good naturally aspirated engine, and putting a little boost to it.


awesome. thanks man. sooo one more question....soooo far:


how does the lower intake temps help with timing?
 

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Air gets really hot, really fast when compressed. So boosted intake temperatures are already high. This already hot air is further compressed in the cylinder/combustion chamber. The fuel is going to ignite at a certain temperature, regardless of whether or not the spark plug fires.

When the fuel/air in the cylinder ignite due to cylinder temperatures, not the spark plug firing, it is called detonation. Your engine has sensors to detect this, and will retard the engine in an effort to keep the motor from tearing itself apart.

If you can keep your intake temperatures low, then you can reduce the probability of detonation, and that will keep your computer from retarding the engine.

Hope that makes sense.
 

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Ok let me say it again to you because either you didnt read it or i didnt say it properly. lets get something straight here, you and rich are BOTH RIGHT. I am not arguing that you are wrong, i am not saying i am a bad ass driver and i have a shit ton of experience because i dont. I have mentioned it before and i will mention it once more: this build will not take place until about 5 years or so from now. What does that mean exactly? that from now and that time, i will be attending track days, i will be building my suspension, my drivetrain, etc etc, improving my skill and getting experience. All WHILE I HAVE A STOCK MOTOR. of course i want a nice street toy, who doesnt? but i also like to beat my cars up, and i sure as hell not going to do this on the street. What does that mean? IT MEANS IM GOING TO TRACK MY CAR.

I know im being an ass here, but it kinda bugs me when people tell me things that i already know. I am not stupid. I am not going to strap myself to a 600RWHP car and go balls out. with what i have now its a handful. but when i get experience i want something faster and faster and faster (until i hit my 600RWHP mark). I am 20 yo (going to be 21 in a couple months), i might be young and inexperience but i am sure not stupid. I know how to test my limit's and respect my car(s). THis is my plan within the next 5 years (if you care)

rebuilt and completely upgrade my suspension, tires, brakes and chassis
take care of all exterior and interior cosmetics
completely rebuild and upgrade my drivetrain
rebuilt my motor and get a nice N/A build with everything i want (minus the s/c)
then after i am going to s/c it.

do you see what i mean? i know what i am doing (in a sense), i am not going all out, i think suspension is more important in a track than a motor. i dont even have the cash to do a build like that. so it just doesnt make sense for you to assume i am going to go all out before i have experience. I reallllly appreciate you and rich looking out for me, honestly because i am a complete stranger and you actually i guess kinda care for a strangers well being. that right there is character. But i would also really appreciate it if you didnt assume i was that stupid, and instead ask some questions before jumping to conclusions.


hey man, sounds like you have a plan in your head and know what you want so screw it. go for it. it'll be quite an awesome build when it's all said and done. I'm out of the mustang scene right now, just jumped into a bimmer so I can only add advice when it comes to my experience on track nowadays anyways.
 
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hey man, sounds like you have a plan in your head and know what you want so screw it. go for it. it'll be quite an awesome build when it's all said and done. I'm out of the mustang scene right now, just jumped into a bimmer so I can only add advice when it comes to my experience on track nowadays anyways.

Weellll....i could really use advice on the track. if you would like to advise?
 
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Air gets really hot, really fast when compressed. So boosted intake temperatures are already high. This already hot air is further compressed in the cylinder/combustion chamber. The fuel is going to ignite at a certain temperature, regardless of whether or not the spark plug fires.

When the fuel/air in the cylinder ignite due to cylinder temperatures, not the spark plug firing, it is called detonation. Your engine has sensors to detect this, and will retard the engine in an effort to keep the motor from tearing itself apart.

If you can keep your intake temperatures low, then you can reduce the probability of detonation, and that will keep your computer from retarding the engine.

Hope that makes sense.


no shit. thats what denotation is??? wow. that makes sense..sooo when you say the motor has sensors to detect it, is that why theres pre-ignition pinging?
 

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